Adjustable Coil Springs

[Guest Dredd]

Hi

My S.Spec has adjustable coil springs front and back. Since doing a few miles in the car, I have had the rear exhaust support bracket hit the road under certain conditions (bumpy road). I wondered if I was to tension the rear springs it would prevent too much movement but I don't want to make it too livley at the back end.

 

Any thoughts?

[Mitch]

Hi Dredd

 

How much ground clearence have you at the back?,

Measure just in front of the rear arch where the rear axle is bolted to the chassi,

Most measure around 6inches at this point, you can wind the springs up till you get this height.

Are you sure its the bracket and not the cups holding the rear subframe on the car which is grounding?.

i did have the supplied Zeemerides fitted but there were far too soft and even slightly uneven surfaces made it ground after around 3K miles.Made driving it horrible, i was constantly waiting for the crunch of the rear suspention grounding.

 

I now have ajustable Gazshocks fitted all around and this has really transformed the handling.

 

HTH

 

Mitch

[Robbie 2B]

Mitch

 

Yet another 2B with the same problem, and the Zeemerides also squeak! :gdit:

 

I have bought a set of the chamferred wedges to fit the rear hubs to try and help the grounding problem. Apart from hopefully correcting some of the skitishness is this a worhwile option?

 

A few questions regarding the Gazshocks.

 

1. Can you use the RH supplied upper fixing and do they fit the hole in the swing arms?

2. Where did you get them?

3. What is the model number or lengths and spring rate?

4. And lastly, how much?

 

Many thanks

 

Robbie

[Guest chris brown]

Zeemerides also squeak!

All Zeemerides squeak :gdit: get some grease between the spring and shock just paint it in with an old paint brush and wipe off the excess. It’s the springs that rub on the casing around the shock :angry:

[Guest Dredd]

Mitch

 

Thanks for the info. I've measured my ride height as you suggested and it is 7". Having just spoken to Friar, it appears my exhaust is too low so much for the upgraded bracket from RHSC :angry:

 

good news on the squeak though, I thought is was something coming loose! I shall grease the shocks as Chris suggests.

[Mitch]

Hi Robbie

 

Okay,Squeaking wasnt a problem, they were far too soft,

 

if you already have the coilovers on the back then use the RH supplied brackets (top and Bottom), you will need to check the bolt sizes used in the shocks you have (all may not be same) for the eyes,

I got them from Dampertech in Rotherham tel 01709 702572

Sizes, cant remember i will try and find the paperwork,

cost, i think it was £340 for all four, all inc, again i will have to check

or you could remove one and check closed length and open length.

 

Give them a call David Ainsworth is the boss,don't forget to ask for a club discount.

They are only to happy to answer any questions you may have.

Others have used there products to and i have yet to hear negative feedback

HTH

Mitch

[Guest Mike Perry]

Hi Robbie

 

You mention that you have fitted wedges. Do you mean the wedges on the rear hubs to correct the camber on the rears; if so where did yours come from as we've been trying to locate some? Hopefully somewhere close to you as we're not far down the road.

 

Also it would be good to see the finished product / pick your brain whilst we continue with our build.

[Robbie 2B]

Mitch

 

Many thanks for the info, will contact Dampertech.

 

Robbie

[Robbie 2B]

Mike

 

I have not fitted the wedges yet, job for the winter as you have to remove the drive shafts, bleed the brakes, etc.

 

I got the wedges from RS Jigtec, special offer of £25 a pair at the Kent show. Its a pity they went bust as I also got a set of stainless steel screen pillars, again £25 and an exact match to the RH supplied ones.

 

If you want to hav a chat send a PM

 

Robbie

[Big Jim]

you have to remove the drive shafts, bleed the brakes, etc

Not quite correct.

Yes you do have to remove the driveshafts, but there is no need to touch the brakes. Just remove the 4 bolts (17mm socket) that hold the bearing housing to the backplate & axle, pull the whole shaft complete with the bearing housing out of the diff, slide the spacer behind the backplate, and refit the shaft into the diff, then refit the 4 bolts, making sure the widest part of the spacer is at the top (obviously)

Providing the 4 bolts come out OK (spray with WD40 first on the threads at the back), you can do both sides in less than an hour.

Also note; if you have the 'Lobo' type driveshafts, then life is a bit harder, you'll have to undo the very large nut on the end of the axle, pull off the bearing housing with a puller, and remove the driveshaft from underneath.

Also the hole in the centre of the spacers may need opening out to fit the larger dia of this bearing housing.

[Guest petrie51]

Jim, do you have to get longer bolts when you fit the spacer.

 

Andy

ps I got the wedges from big Jim £5.00 the pair last year

[Robbie 2B]

Jim

 

Thanks for that info, look as if I have a job for the weekend, oh well repairing the fence will have to wait yet again.

 

I don't have 'lobo' shafts thus the drive shafts should pull straight out. The use of liberal doses ot WD 40 is questionable. If it is used the threads need to be cleaned as these bolts are one of the few places which you should use lock-tight.

 

I haven't fitted the wedges due to the fact that things normally go wrong to the exponential of the items removed. Does everyone have this problem or am I using too small a hammer? :angry:

 

Their must be an openning for someone to manufacture stainless pillars they are much better than the original.

 

Robbie

[Big Jim]

The use of liberal doses ot WD 40 is questionable

if you bend your kneck and look over the top of the backplate, you will see that the bolts are too long, with an amount of thread having been exposed to the elements & road sh1te since Uncle Henry rolled it off the production line some 15 - 20 years ago, if you don't give it some WD40, then I promise not to say a word when you come back on here saying that one of the bolts has either snapped or removed the thread from the axle case.

2nd thoughts, I might just say four words!

[niduncan]

I bought a pair of wedges from RS Jigtec just before they ceased trading. To save the hastle of removing the half shafts I cut the wedges in half, this meant I only had to remove the bearing plate bolts, slide in the two halfs then replace the bolts. Nice and easy with not a drop of diff oil spilt.

[Guest jsillars]

Niduncan, is there any chance thta you could elaberate on your last post.

???

 

How did u do it?

 

and did you cut the spacers along the horizontal or vertical?

 

James