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L/w Nose


E.Hunt

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Guest ScotMac

Yes, i agree. I really want the laptop for the logging/tuning, but it is also useful during the other 99% of the time as a dash, GPS, dvd player, ...

 

Note, the screen shots below are fairly high resolution. View them in their full size to get a true idea what the software looks like.

 

Here's a screen shot of my ECU's virtual Dash:

 

http://scotmac.com:8080/locost/dash.1.jpg

 

Oh, and here's a few other interesting shots from the ECU programming software:

 

Basic map (note the 16 x 16 programming resolution):

 

http://scotmac.com:8080/locost/basic.jpg

 

Plotting/Logging screen:

 

http://scotmac.com:8080/locost/plot.jpg

 

BTW, i think the boys in blue might have ways, other than your telemetry data, of determining your speed. Just a thought. ;) :D :D

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  • 2 months later...
Guest ScotMac

OK, i finally got to the same point you guys were at a couple of months ago. ie, i am putting on the ally nose piece (w/ the "H"). And yes, the holes don't line up. I used a screw driver, and cranked on them a bit, and eventually got about 80% of them to line up. I assume everyone else also decided that they should ATTEMPT to get them to line up, instead of just drilling?? the assumption being that RH drilled the holes correctly (very iffy assumption).

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Guest ScotMac

Also, the bottom ones have no chance of lining up w/ the side panels. ie, the bottom of the side panels do NOT have any chance of extending far enough for the bottom holes in the nose piece (most are *inches* away).

 

I assume that there will be some *other* engine bay panel that will match up w/ the wholes on the bottom of that nose piece???

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Guest ScotMac

That's what i figured. Thanks for confirming (guess i couldve skipped ahead in the dvd's, but i'm lazy).

 

Just about to start on all those panels that go in around the diff. I have finally figured out how i am going to strengthen the diff.

 

I am going to add 90deg angle'd aluminum to the above mentioned panels...ie, to the 15a, b, ... panels. I am also adding the 90deg angle'd ally to the tunnel bottom (both sides of it). These angle'd ally pieces are 6061 T6, and are 1/8" thick. Pretty sturdy. Each of these angle'd pieces will rivet and glue into the square cross members each time they cross one. This should greatly strengthen the support for the square cross members.

 

Next i am putting 3/16" flat panels on the outside of the diff mounting panels. ie, the diff bolts will go thru the existing 1/16" stuff *and* my new 3/16" panels. These flat panels are very strong. I will then *also* put in some small angled pieces hooking these two strong flat panels to the square cross members, thus linking everything together.

These 3/16" flat panels are also 6061 T6 ally.

 

I am also using Fusor automotive glue (i mentioned it in a previous thread) to lock all these panels in. I am amazed at its strength.

 

I believe so far the new reinforcements have only added about 12lbs!! So far, so good.

 

EDIT: Moving this to another thread to start a discussion on strengthening the L/W.

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I think I've folded wrong :( can't seem to get the holes to line up on the front panel (the one with the "H").

 

Could some one please measure across the top and across the bottom as mine tapers from top to a narrower bottom.

 

thank you

 

colin

The panels are not pre-folded? So what do you get with a Lightweight kit, sheets of pre-cut panels at least I hope? Do you have any pictures of the engine area?

 

Thanks

Steve

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Guest ScotMac

The panels vary. Some are fully folded, some are partially folded, and some are flat. ALL that i have encountered so far are pre-cut.

 

Note, for the "H" nose piece in question, mine was folded on the top and bottom, and i had to fold the sides.

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