deano266

Well I have replaced the new cable (what a farce that is). On the plus side I made a new bracket and put some PTFE spray in and what a difference it makes. 

The clutch is so much lighter as I have put the mounting point closer to the driver exposing more cable in the pedal box and making it straighter. I could only do that as the top of the clutch pedal is slightly bent allowing the cable to pass straight by it.

I would check for air blockages but are you using the standard radiator or an aftermarket one. 

If it's aftermarket are you using a separate intercooler for the turbo and a radiator for the engine ensuring both are getting good airflow

Oh well. At least I'll have them today to be able to drive round in it. 

I'm guessing going hydraulic would be alot of work. Has anyone done it yet on a 2b or other

I have just ordered 2 from eurocarparts as they are still readily available through them and with their discount code they come to about 25 quid each to get me back on the road.

Looks like I might have to do some minor modifications to the clutch pedal alignment  before I install one again

Oh and another thing. How can I make the clutch any lighter. As my dad who has had a knee operation gets a sore knee after driving it for a while due to the force required of the clutch pedal

Hi guys. Well after looking forward to playing out in the Lancastrian hills it was abruptly brought to a very quick sudden end with a loud bang. Said bang was the clutch cable.

I have got new ones ordered already but was wondering what people have done to make the bracket to avoid it happening. Pictures would be helpful.

Also what would be required to make it hydraulic on the mt75 gearbox out of curiosity?

So going for the 48mm or 60mm inlet  won't have any negative effect on the engine?

Hi guys.

I have a question about fitting the exhaust. the pipework from the collector has an outer diameter of 2 inches and the exhausts i'm looking at getting have an outer diameter of either 2 inch or 2.5 inch.

The differences between the exhausts are a bigger can size.

My question is does it matter that the exhaust inlet gets bigger or will this cause issues

Hi all. I have a Ford Fiesta fuel tank with its original fuel sender paired up to a ETB gauge. When the fuel gets to about halfway and below the fuel reading will read half and wont go any lower. I got the correct resistance values 20 -120 ohms to match the fuel sender. 

I have a spiyda device but never really got it to sync up.

Does anyone have any advice for this. TIA

All plumbed in now. Tried running without a blank on the grille and stayed below 80 ran with a blank on the grille and did not once budge from optimum (we have a very large rad). 

Thanks @AndyW the work you put in to fix this issue.

Now to sort the rest of the problems out

I didn't have to do that for mine. Mine was plug and play so to speak and is a valeo one code 245025 if that helps for the future

When mine was bouncing it turned out to be a knackered coil. That might also be worth looking especially as mine didn't have the right one on it to begin with

For the T piece near the water pump. Does it need to be almost next to it or can it be slightly further down the pipework and about halfway between the pump and radiator.

Which is best before i start cutting and installing it all?

Thanks guys.

So the things I'll need to do it are about 1 metre of hose 16mm for the water rail and round to an unequal t piece (32/32/25) at the water pump. I'll need an equal tee (16mm) and a 25mm> 16mm reducer. 

I'm also going to do a full coolant change whilst I'm at it as I managed to boil off some coolant whilst on a track day so clearly not all was happy with the cooling system

Looking at the metal pipe. Does that do anything besides hold the dipstick tube (which mine seems to have broken off its mounts anyway).

If not could you go from tpiece under the bottle to the thermostat?

@AndyW

What size t piece reducer did you use or what size reducer did you use to go to the water rail?

When I took mine to Richard at GBS to have the scuttle redone he asked me a couple of superspec related questions like the shocks being squeaky and the brakes locking up.

He said that they couldn't figure out why it would lock one wheel or both at random times. They even tried different brake servos but couldn't get the braking to be even unless it was with the one fitted to it. 

In short it may be a superspec bug (one of those things that were left for us to fix) as I have it on the right front brake

Etb dials with speed sensor that picks up from propshaft bolts. Incredibly accurate and easy to set up

He is very friendly. I think it goes through as a Morris minor haha

We have a hole in the silencer can itself. The car for as long as we have had it never has had a catalytic converter on it so we were thinking of maybe adding one to the system. In terms of the silencer on it at the moment only has the one outlet so never had that back pressure issue.

Obviously we don't want to impede the sound of the car as that is one of the main selling points and looking at the ones with the cat at 400 quid is very steep, especially considering that you can buy a silencer and an in line cat for cheaper. 

If we did install an online cat does it go before the lambda or after it?

Also, where would the best place to get a silencer from other than kitspares?

I know the superspec has a bespoke silencer but the silencer now has a hole in it. My questions are:

1)What is the diameter of the exhaust on a superspec

2)will the current kitspares silencers fit straight on

How did you make the tunnel cover. That is so much better than mine and might look to replicate

I think we will also be looking at adopting Andy's design as our car takes 15 - 20 minutes to warm up even with a blanking plate across the front, even in these unusually warm days

Yeah took me a few tries. Have you tried all the email addresses on the website as I think their are 2

5 hours ago, deano266 said:

If it's the branch that goes to the hose that ran across the top of the engine to the rad, then yes. That one I put a stop on it and it's not caused an issue

2 hours ago, alanrichey said:

As I said before, I tried removing the top line and the fan ran permanently to keep the engine cool.  So in my car that extra circulation is necessary.   Easy enough to test yours and see if it is needed.   Just for info I am using an 88C thermostat and a 95C fan switch, which works well.

It must be said I have changed radiator to an alloy polo radiator so I'm not running the sd1 radiator anymore.

My fan is run off a thermostat in the radiator rather than off the system itself