Snapperpaul

Well that's the first easy check done

I would have replaced valve stem seals as they can be done with the head on and see if the problem goes away.

Compression testing is more about even pressures across all cylinders which you have.

Piston rings only seal properly when the engine is running as combustion gasses push behind the top ring forcing a better seal.

Also any thin fluid such as diesel would deep down even with good rings as the rings have gaps, a hot engine will have smaller gaps and better ring seals.

The fact that 1 piston/bore combination has not leaked any fluid is probably due to carbon.

I really think there is some over thinking and (as I have done in the past) a willingness to assume a problem and rip an engine apart when perhaps some more measured and restrained thinking is needed.

If breathers are blocked or connected wrongly you can pressurise the engine and force oil past he rings.

Start simple and cheap.

Only rip apart when the simple cheap options are exhausted.

There is a specific high torque cam for the Injection Pinto I think it is the FR34

A similar cam is the FR30 both have similar duration than standard just more lift and will not confuse the Fuel Injection system

Something over 200bhp and similar torque would be good for my Fury, I'm still fiddling with the Pinto for the S3

The ST170 Zetec puts out about 164bhp what is the expected bhp and torque after conversion?

And if you look closely the engines are reversed and there are driveshafts on the front wheels.

I therefore sumise that it is a twin bike engines 4WD monster

If your running bike carbs Megajolt is an easy and cheaper option.

The Pinto/Robin Hood exhaust manifold is a close match you just need the manifold flanges cutting off and a Duratec one welded to it with pipes flared to fit the oval outlets in the head.

You can get a bellhousing to adapt to the Type 9 the Mazda box cants the engine over about 30 degrees

Indeed, they are nothing special apart from cam which tends to be an interesting mix of lift and duration specifically designed for short oval.

A mate put one in his 2b and it was good, eventually twisted the crappy 2b propshaft.

He was in the oval racing fraternity.

Any oval racing engine being sold without provenance will be shagged.

Your emissions are set at IVA so you will only have to meet Pjnto standards

The age is immaterial to DVLA the capacity however is although, this should make no difference to your tax

General Purpous Machine Popguns

I have done 3 Pinto builds on 2 engines

1 I bought fully built 2.1 with everything fitted just fit and run or so I thought but it did have some good bits such as ARP head and block stud kit.

The second I built from scratch using a low compression 205 block.

Separating out the costs is a little difficult as I bought several heads and cams and then decided on a brand new Kent RL31 kit.

Your basics are gaskets, seals, blanking plates and belts. Filters oils and fluids.

£100 to £150

It's probably best to divide the purchases in to bottom and top end.

Next is new parts, if this is a first rebuild I usually fit new high pressure high capacity oil pump and new water pump

£60 to £80

This is the minimum for a fresh engine base it now becomes a bit more expensive as you'll be looking at performance improvement and that means Head, cam and carbs as a minimum.

1 of my engines did a good job with just an injection head and an FR32 cam kit.

The cheap low compression transit engine with injection head I got for £50 the cam kit was close to £300

What I would say at this stage is that if you have good oil pressure then new bearings may not be necessary but if your fitting a new camshaft you must fit new cam bearings.

Go for good oem bearings there not expensive

£20 to £30

Big end bearings similar price.

When I started to get a bit more adventurous I spent an incalculable amount of time researching the machining I needed to do, this was based on the Head that I had already bought as the rest of the machining would need the combustion chamber volume to be known first.

Caveat.. Head gaskets have a huge influence but also have a cost penalty, my 2.1 engines are limited by available head gaskets, Adjusa is £40 and 1mm anything thicker is Cometic or Athena and they start at £120.

My tip of the day (month, year) don't obsess about 2.1 you'll only get to 2.09 and that is only 5% more capacity.

Any cam that uses double valve springs will need spring seats machining and shims to get the correct fitted height

£150

Valve seat cutting is about £20 each and fitting hardened exhaust seats is £40 each not necessary on an injection head (block marked with P,R,I, near No.4 exhaust port)

I bought Cosworth rods and V6 Pistons machined for circlips.

£100 & £180

The Cosworth rods needed the small ends narrowing so took the block, rods and Pistons to an engineering firm who bored and skimmed the block, fitted rods to Pistons and balanced the lot with all new bearings.

£600

The rest of the cost was oil cooler, clutch, starter, catch tank, the list goes on and on and on.

Now I know this is not a difinative list of costs and it is my humble opinion that you can do a cheap rebuild for a few hundred pounds or you can go all out and spend a couple of thousand.

My way has always been to buy bits as I go through a project thus spreading the cost and to buy secondhand and new wisely where I can.

Looking at my notes I have £1772.41 + another £155 but this was for a bare block build down to even woodruff keys

Next car going to have a fully plumbed in fire suppression system?

Proper traction control units will measure relative wheel speeds from all four wheels using abs sensors and rings.

Fords system also has inertial sensors to measure lateral G thus giving the ECU information on Yaw as well. It will then nip the brakes on individual wheels to try and correct a spin

I used to regularly feel it working on my Mondeo on damp roundabouts when being a tad enthusiastic

I don't usually go for Chelsea tractors but I'm saying yes to this one

You can try resetting the rivenuts by using a blot and locknut, if this does not do it then remove panels and drill out fivnets

Also the measurement needs to be from top sill or suspension cover to tunnel

Rally design do extensions so check which rack you have and order

Don't weld to the locknut

Before I did the tie bar conversion I did a mod to the anti roll bar mounts which was basically wedges as the roll bar mount base is not flat

I don't take them down, it's high up there

I would go FI too

 

it is nothing to do with RPM.

 

 

one cylinder of a two litre engine, is 250 cc per cylinder.

 

air flow dynamics accepted. each cylinder would draw in approx 250cc of air at each induction stroke, the carb must mix this air with fuel so that is meets the correct fuel air ratio.

 

a bike carb, designed for a 1 litre engine, will expect 125cc of air for each induction stroke.

 

correct fuel air ratio?

WRONG

2000 divided x 4 = 500cc

Bike carbs have a variable Venturi similar to SU carbs and they work on Minis and big Jags alike.

The port size of bike carbs is similar to Webers so you can find a diameter to suit, that said the variable Venturi does a lot of the work for you.

Then it's the needle/main jet/vacuum combination.

They work and they work well for less money than Webers

Does this help?

They are low, I mean loooow

Great car you have to get the colour right

I do like the Red Yellow combo

And the Red White even more

Didn't the Jensen Healy run with the 2.0L Lotus engine found subsequently in the Lotus Sunbeam Talbot?

That 1960 pebble dash is actually 1980's pebble dash needed to cover the block work after the plastic planking left with the 1980's storm

Refreshed when the extension was built in 2004 ill have you know

½ correct guess so far

I say half as 2 options were given

I'd say seconds not minutes Jim

You can usually hear the oil if you take off the oil filler cap.

60psi on cranking I'd assume all is ok by then