Grizzly

Hi All, Does anyone have a spare circlip for the Speedo Cable (Type 9 gearbox)? I'm thinking that these may be one of those things that Uncle Henry may like to charge a lot for. I'm also after an M10 fine (I think) bolt (for the propshaft/backaxle). Both of these items I could probably get from the scrappy of course but I'd have to dig under the scrap Sierra to get to them!

... and received on Saturday..... Thanks adi1.

I have plenty of space 'cos I've dumped the fan. I already have double pulleys on the crank & water pump. I just thought it would be better if I had a double pulley on the alternotor too.

Does anyone have one of the above they're not using? Are they all different? I like the idea of running two belts.

You (should) have a PM.

I've a spanner that'll do but you're too far away. Beware though - LEFT HAND THREAD.

Hi Adi1, I'll make use of this if it's still available? Thanks...

Yes thanks guys, "catch" bottle it is. I've been down to the local scrappy and got one off a Rover that'll do nicely. It's in the dishwasher now!!!

Burton Power do this sort of stuff too ( https://www.burtonpower.com/default.aspx). I've just fixed myself up with some gear like this to accomodate Capri Clocks.

Hi All, On my setup, I've noticed that the radiator filler cap neck is not the highest point in the cooling system (There are heater pipes which will run higher). From the rad filler neck I currently have a simple pipe running down to below the rad. I understand that a simple bottle mounted just about anywhere to take this pipe would suffice but the system is currently empty and as the neck is not the highest point, it's going to be difficult to fill. Off I toddled to the scrappy to get an expansion bottle. I found a neat one (off a Volvo) which looks like it has a vented cap. It has two outlets - one to go to the rad filler neck and the other to feed into the system at some point (probably near to the thermostat). OK so far. This will enable me to mount the bottle so that it will become the highest point. I'll be able to fill the sysem from both the rad neck and the bottle to make sure that it's all properly filled. I'm a bit concerned though that the bottle cap may not be right (pressure wise)??? I'll be at Harrogate at the weekend so I have this on my list of things to check out. I just wondered if anyone had a definitive answer now?

Cheers Kieran, I'll do just that.

Hi All, I have four flexible hoses (I guess from the donor) but I'm trying to order a pair of shiny Braided Hoses for the front. The guy at Burton Power wants to know what size. All I can say is that they're for a 1990 Sierra. That's not good enough. He needs to know how long (I guess the same as the ones I've got will be OK?). That's easy enough (I'm pretty handy with a Tape Measure ). The niggly bit is that he want's to know what thread? This is where I fail miserably. I just don't know :boohoo: . Is there anyone out there who knows or does anyone know where I can get hold of some sort of measuiring gizmo?

Hi All, I'm starting to think about installing fuel lines. I'll probably put two in (to save potential hassle later). Currently though, I have the std setup (2L with carb and mechanical pump). There seems to be a mixed set of opinions whether to have a return or not. The sender has two pipes and my questions are: 1. Do I just use the return on the sender as a breather for now? 2. If I opt for a return, how is this set up? I see the supply but cannot identify where a return would come from. I know this quandry has been encountered before and I've done a Search but haven't found any definitive answers as yet.

I'd be interested in a wiper system too - There's getting to be quite a queue eh?

I had a look at Newark regarding how Bill had done this. The trouble is that all Master Cylinders are not the same. My problem is that the two holes on the Master Cylinder are nearly (BUT NOT QUITE) in the same line as the pedal box holes. Tim said that you can bend the pedal box a bit in order to get it all in line. Has anyone else had to do this as I don't want to ruin the pedal box in trying to force it?

Thanks Guys, I did try to get one at Newark. Some guy sold me a pipe that he said would fit. I wasn't sure at the time but I bought it anyway. Guess what? - Yep it didn't fit!!! :gdit: I'm hoping he'll be at the Harrogate show so that I can get my dosh back. I've sent an email to Speedy Cables to see if they can provide.

Something else to ponder on.... I have a 205 block and Capri clocks. I need an Oil Pressure Gauge Pipe and connection into the block. I'm not sure if this connection needs to be a T-Piece (for an oil warning light too) because I haven't dug the clocks out of the cupboard for a while. Can anyone advise me on where I may be able to get a pipe & fittings, or failing that, where I can get one made up??? I've trawled tinternet and ebay and rang around some local motor factors including the main Ford dealer, to no avail, so I getting a bit desperate!!! :boohoo: :boohoo:

Hi All, Firstly, I had a good time at Newark. It was great to see all the Hoodies and the turn-out was excellent! Sorry to all of you who I didn't get around to introducing myself to - I was pretty busy buying stuff!!! Secondly, I spoke to Tim Norman and amongst other things proudly told him about my efforts in tilting the Steering Rack rearwards in order to eliminate the notchiness when turning the wheel from lock to lock. Tim, you scared the life out of me when you advised that this was NOT a wise thing to do. In your opinion, this action can result in the phenomenon of 'Bump Steer'. I quote from: longtech3.htm "Bump Steer is when your wheels steer themselves without input from the steering wheel. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps in the track interacting with improper length or angle of your suspension and steering linkages. Most car builders design their cars so that the effects of bump steer are minimal. However, you must still take care to bolt on your suspension carefully so as not to create unwanted bump steer. Make sure that you are always using the correct components for a particular car. Bump steer must be designed into the car and cannot be adjusted out if improper parts are used or if pivot points are moved without considering bump steer design principles". There are other websites who talk about this too. My question is: I was under the impression that tilting the Steering Rack was an OK thing to do and that some Hoodies had done this already? If so, has anyone experienced any problems? Finally, if tilting the rack is not an option, I read in this commiunity that someone ground off the edges of the UJ - Would this be an acceptable alternative?

Hi All, I'm going down Bill's route. I'm ditching the servo & balance valve and hoping that I'll be able to get the replacement rod from Tiger at the Newark Show. Talking of brakes, all I have is 4 flexible hoses and a couple of lengths of brake pipe made up with various ends on. I don't suppose anyone has a diagram or list of parts needed to make up the complete system? If so I can add some more bits to my shopping list!

Thanks for the offer of the alloy billet Bill, but I've managed to make up some wedges from some box section (cut at an angle). They seem to have done the job OK. On the Quadrant front, I'm hoping to be able to pick one up at the Newark show.

Hi Bill, Yes bring it along and I'll give you a few bob for it. I guess you're saying it's a right beggar to cut though eh??

OK thanks for your replies Guys. I'll be tilting the mounting plate back and I'll try and get a 55mm Quadrant locally. If I can't, maybe I could get one at the Newark Show? I'll be there on the Saturday with my shopping list!!! I'm going to do away with the servo and keep it simple. Bill said that the brakes were plenty good enough without and that'll do for me. With the car jacked up, there's some notchiness when turning the wheel from lock to lock. I had a look but couln't find anthing siexed (UJ wise). Then I had a look on Bill & Joey's website (good site guys!) and found a solution. I need to pack up the front of the rack too but I'm having a bit of trouble getting hold of some suitable alloy. I don't suppose you have any left do you Bill???? Thanks....

I'm getting into this now - Basically re-juggling everything. Richard mentions in the video to look out for cracking on the pedal box... Guess what? Yep I'll be having to get this welded!!! :boohoo: Also, Richard says that you can tip the Pedal Box mounting plate backwards in order to push the pedals further away. At 6 feet, I reckon I could do with this - Has anyone done this, or have people just cut & shut the pedals? If so there's another trip to the welder on the horizon!!

Thanks Chris, Any pics? Doesn't moving the steering bush bracket as far to the right as possible make the steering wheel askew with the dash? Thanks....

Hi All, Thanks for all the comments. I've had a closer look at this now and it seems to me that the nylon bush alongside the brake pedal is simply on the wrong side. I reckon that if I swap it over to the other side it'll be sorted. Wheteher that means I have to move the servo too though, I'm not sure? It's not lined up too well now - swapping it may help. Talking of servo's & no.4 pipe - I have about a 12mm clearance at the moment without any wrapping though (presuming I don't have to move the servo!!). On the same matter, I have about zero clearance between the steering column and no.1 pipe!! Lifting the column isn't an option even as the UJ will bind on the chassis under the pedal box. Strewth - there's not a lot of clearance to play with anywhere is there? Regards... :gdit: