Grizzly
-
Posts
1,495 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Community Map
Posts posted by Grizzly
-
-
I'll bring mine too - We can compare.
-
I'll be joining the A1 at Knaresborough around 07:30 Chris so that seems perfick!
You'll be 'aving yer ears on?
Oh, I assume you mean Sunday am?
-
Hi Rob,
I can't but Burtons can.
0208 518 9136
-
Hi James,
I've had this issue and sorted it.
Here's a Clicky, but not much to go on in there.
Basically, get the car onto level ground and do some measuring.
I made some washers out of some various pieces of Stainless and used them as shims behind the four bolts each side that fix the axles/brake backplate to the subframe thingamywhatsitcalled.
Note that a 0.7mm shim will throw the wheel rim nearly 2mm, or something like that I can't remember now.
I had too much Toe-in, so had to shim the front two bolts and too much camber so shimmed the top two bolts.
HTH?
-
OK. So for starters, the resistor is upside down?
Can you easily sort that first off?
-
Hi Darren,
OK. If this is what GMS say, then you should be able to get what you already have working somehow.
A bit Heath Robinson, but this is how I did mine.
Lash up the sender you have to the car in a level position and make sure it's earthed.
I clamped mine to the roll bar which was level.
Connect up the Gauge and with the Float at it's lowest point, the Gauge should read empty.
Slowly lift the Float and hopefully the Gauge should start to move.
If this happens then it's a qustion of getting the Float into the correct arc.
I did this by extending the arm and a bit of bending.
I used a piece of cardboard to represent the Tank and marked the low (empty) and high (full) points
If this doesn't work then the guy at GMS is wrong - IMHO.
HTH
-
I have Capri clocks and managed to get hold of a Capri Sender off eBay.
It wasn't expensive, so I must've been lucky.
I then set to, adjusting and lengthening the float arm so that it travelled the full height of the tank and it works a treat.
Chris is right though. GMS should be able to sort you out with what you need.
-
you have pm mate!
Provisionally sold!
-
Hi All,
My 2B Exhaust is now surplus to requirements.
It has a Stainless Steel heatshield and has been modified (see second Pic) to be re-packable.
Also included is a large quantity of packing material, sufficient for several re-packs (I bought way too much!)
£10 for the lot is the asking price and I can bring it to Stoneleigh.
Regards...
-
Hi All,
Well I started this thread, so I'd best pitch in again.
I noticed no difference in the car's geometry or driving behaviour from day one of my car being on the road to the 10,000 miles or so later when the ball-joint failed. It was always a bit heavy on the steering, but I assumed this to be normal.
As I stated before, this was a 'heads up' to people with 2B Wishbones, although it doesn't appear to have happened to anyone else. I even asked the guys at GBS about it and they'd not heard of any failures such as this. Sure, they'd heard about them coming unscrewed and therefore failing, but this wasn't the problem here. The fact remains though and as others have acknowledged to me verbally, that this particular set-up is simply wrong. The ball-joint is acting in expansion and this compression type of ball-joint was never designed to perform in such a way.
Whatever, as I didn't build the car from complete scratch, I have no idea whether or not the original ball-joints were new from the onset - they may not have been. Couple that with the fact that the rubberised boots were of the semi-transparent variety (apparently prone to becoming brittle in sunlight) and probably stood from 2002 for four or five years before the car made it onto the road, may have been a factor in their premature demise. Although I never 'prised' them myself during the build (It never occurred to me to do so) when the car went for SVA in 2007, I watched the SVA examiner give ALL joints a good going over with his crowbar and nothing seemed amiss. I have written to the original owner on the off-chance that he may have been able to cast further light on the matter, but he never returned my correspondence.
I'm not casting any accusations at anyone, either with regards to their workmanship or anyone's manufacturing quality. Having removed (as a precaution) the second set and examined them, they seem to have stood up very well to the second 10,000 miles or so with no adverse effects. I therefore will not be replacing these after another 10,000 miles and will probably leave them longer. I will though, be keeping a careful watch over them going forward.
This thread is simply to highlight a potential 'weakness' that people need to be aware of, but it seems to all intents and purposes, to probably be a one-off issue.
Let's keep our prisons clear for the really bad people eh?
Regards...
-
Hi Dan,
You have a PM
Regards... Steve.
-
How did you fix them on, Grizz?
Same way as Ian's.
Simply sandwiched between the tube and the cycle wing using the original cycle wing bolts.
-
-
I have them on mine and they've certainly helped.
Here's a Clicky
-
-
This is quite local for me.
Tickets bought for myself and Mrs Grizzly.
If the weather's naff, we can take over Ye Olde Tea Shoppe!
Looking forward to it.
-
I'm probably good for this Steve.
Just trying to cajole Mrs Grizzly to come along - In which case I'll need the details of the B&B
-
Hi All,
The Kiwi who sits opposite me at work (and has done so for ages) nonchalantly just happened to mention to me the other day, that his twin brother back in New Zealand has a Sabre Kit Car.
I'm posting the links on here for interest.
We are not alone and while we're all worrying and getting stressed about the little things, I found this helped to get things back into perspective.
Literally the other side of our world but, if like me you're currently hooked on BBC2's Wonder of the Solar System, yet another reminder of how small our world is eh?
Good stuff!
-
Hi Nigel,
Yes, just as a precautionary measure, as I wanted to see how much wear there was after 10,000 miles.
Answer: Next to nowt.
I guess I was just unfortunate with the originals.
So, I won't be changing them again for a while now.
-
Tried the on-line option again, but still the DVLA website won't give me the option of a disc starting next month.
Went to the Post Office first thing this morning.
Because the car is currently on SORN, I can't get a new disc until two working days before it's due to commence.
That's not so bad then.
-
My original ones had the transparent boots.
Maybe they split (I seem to recall someone saying they could be badly affected by sunlight) before I even got the car on the road and that therefore caused premature wear? The second lot had (and the pair I've just put on have) black boots.
-
...The second pic is of the one I've just removed after nearly another 10,000 miles.
Hardly any wear at all!
The only conclusions I can therefore come to is that either the originals were from a bad batch or they were never new in the first place???
-
Hi All,
Just thought I'd add an update to this thread.
OK. The first pic is of the original Ball-Joint that failed after 10,000 miles.
....
-
Hi All,
My 2B is currently on SORN and I want to get a Tax Disc to run from 01/04/10
Has anyone manged to get a pre-dated tax Disc on-line, or am I going to have to get in the queue at the Post Office on the hallowed day?
The only option I get online, is for the Tax to be valid for this current month onwards and I'm beggared if I'm going to give our nice government a penny more than I have to.
Also, is it going up to £205 for 12 months, as of 01/04/10?
TIA
Mot
in Chit chat
Posted
I went to the Post Office just before April 1st to get my Tax Disc.
My car's age related and passed SVA 4th May 2007 - Registered 21st May 2007.
The nice lady behind the counter said she wanted to see the MOT.
"It doesn't need one" I said politely.
She looked at me, looked at the V5 and said...... mmmm.... OK.... and I walked out with my Tax Disc.