Grizzly

Out of interest Mark, what make are the tyres? Can you confirm the 15mm offset?

I can recommend Woolies. You only really need the Lift-The-Dots for the front where they fix to the windscreen though. The std press studs will be OK for all round the rest of the hood, but I did use a couple of the turnbuckle type by the back of the door each side.

Thanks. I've been thinking about this very thing. Nitromoors - Then get them down to the bare alloy and then get some decent polish onto them (was hoping it'd last longer than a week though ) Thanks for all your input guys.

Hi All, Right. Once I've got my old tyres off the rims and before I get my new tyres fitted, I've been looking into getting my 5 Array Wheels refurbished. A couple of them are pretty much like new, but the other three are blemished due to salt getting under the lacquer and making them look a bit tatty. The problem is that I've been onto a few 'shops' that specialize in this process, but they're all wanting around £50 per wheel and I'm obviously too tight to shell out £250! Nobody will be able to get them back to original spec, as the polished & diamond cut finishes are ex-factory, so I guess I'm just wanting them sprayed really. I don't have a compressor or anything like that, so my question is: Can I do this myself with aerosols or am I just going to have to bite the bullet?

No - Sorry, but someone on here will probably have?

Here's a pic: Simply a length of angle with a mounting plate at the top and bolted to the inside of the inner wing.

Hi, Assuming it's a Mini system, here's my diagram. HTH?

Hi Craig, I'll take some pics of mine tonight and post them on here for you. Basically though, you're looking to get the rails into the correct position to support the Hood when up. At the same time though, these need to be pivoted in such a way that they fold back neat & tidy when not in use. I made up my own brackets and remember that it was a nightmare job to get right.

Ah Ha! That may well explain why my MPG isn't particularly great then? I had my vac pipe disconnected when I took the car to Bogg Bros Dave said the Dizzy was worn and was giving too much Advance with it connected. He said that the Bob Weights alone would provide enough Advance and so we left it at that. Hmm - Maybe I need to look into getting my Dizzy reconditioned and bring the Vac Advance back into play?

One more item to add to my 'To Do List' Clicky Only 2,700 miles round trip!

Agreed Tim. I gave it a cursory glance and then carried on past.

Just for the record, HBOS (Halifax, Bank of Scotland & Sainsburys) suffered major power disruption today which started at 07:24. They were all back on-line by 13:25. It's usual for bank staff in these circumstances to say that the 'LINK Network' is down. This was NOT the case. It was their network only that was affected. Of course, if you were unfortunate enough to have a card issued by HBOS during this time, you wouldn't have been able to get service at any ATM whether it be HBOS owned or not. ATM transactions are real-time and rely upon sufficient funds being in your account and suitably (electronicaly) authorised before cash can be dispensed. How do I know all this? I work for the 'LINK Network'. Clicky

Anyone going this weekend? Is it any good? Too late for tickets to the Top Gear bit, but thought I might nip down there anyway. Ooops sorry. Meant NEC There you go sorted

Thanks for this. I've an engineer coming round next weekend I think. A friend of my next door neighbour who's happy to oblige. I did look on ebay but obviously wasn't looking for the right thing. Yes, maybe worth getting one anyway. Thanks again.

OK. Thanks Guys. I'll set to cleaning up all mating surfaces and see where that gets me. Thanks for the offer Nick. I'll bear it in mind. I'll keep you posted....

Hi All, Had a bit of a Eureka moment last night. My hubs are powder coated and it occured to me that the chances of the powder coating being uniformally even are probably pretty slim. I'll inspect further, but reckon that I probably need to remove the powder coating from the hub face where it mates to the disc. Looked into some sort of runout guage, but they're pretty rare (and expensive). Any thoughts Guys??

Cheers Andy. Points noted. I don't get vibration through the pedal or steering shake. What I do notice is that as you brake to a stop, you can feel the car slowing at differing rates, corresponding to road wheel rotation. If it not warp, then it could well be DTV as you say I don't have a micrometer, but I can get one easy enough. I'll do some measuring. Thanks again.

Just put Tax on the Fuel. The more you use, the more you pay.

Hi Guys, Thanks for all your input. I agree. The std brakes are designed for stopping a Sierra, but in my experience from days of old running Capris etc, Ford brakes were never the best. OK if you were light on them but if pushed, prone to playing up. Calipers seizing and discs warping was commonplace. The calipers on mine have always seemed fine. They've been kept pretty clean, but have never been very good at completley letting go of the rotor. I was particulary carefull when I put the last lot of discs on to make sure I run them in before getting too heavy with them. I also checked, cleaned a roughed up the pads. Didn't fit new ones though, I must admit. Heat build up is most likely the probable cause. The title of this topic has been what I've been suspecting next - Slider bolts (maybe sticking somehow and not allowing the calipers to expand properly). The problem is, being as I bought this kit part-started, I don't know of the origins/history of the brakes at all. There's 19,000 miles on them as far as I know anyway. OK. I need new discs, new calipers (including slider bolts) and new pads. If I stay OE, this is going to set me back probably just under £200 from my local factors (with VAT etc). I spoke to Rally Design yesterday. You're right Bob, they seemed more clued in than Hi Spec. They specifically recommended their conversion kit - BK1S. I'm not too bothered whether the discs are vented or not - I just want them to work and not give me any more hassle. Greenstuff pads aren't available for Wilwood calipers, but there's a pretty good selection of other pads/compounds nonetheless. For the conversion kit (with VAT), I'll be forking out circa £350. This'll get me 4 pot calipers, slotted solid discs (257mm - up from 240mm) and pads of my choice. Two plus points: It'll get me away from Uncle Henry's offering and they look pretty darn good IMHO. Not a Hoody bargain I'll admit, but a price I'm just about prepared to pay. Thanks again to all for you input. HTH anyone else out there in a similair predicament.

Well Done - Looks really good. CONGRATULATIONS!

Sorry Chris, Can't make it up there tonight. I'll try for November!

Thanks for the positive comments Guys. I've put a little How-To in the WIKI section, but you'll have to wait untill it gets approved (I think) by the Moderators.

Jeepers! £680 Very nice, but I'm not sure my wallet will stretch that far. Does anyone know if there's a solution somewhere in between a straight replacement of std setup and £680 ????? How about these ? Has anyone got a similair setup? Just off to buy a Lottery Ticket....

Yes this does help. Thanks. I'll check Hi Spec out.

Hi All, I've now warped my second set of Brake Discs. This winter, I'll be replacing the Calipers, Greenstuff pads and new semi-drilled discs. Does anyone know where I can get the Caliper Slider Bolts from, as I seem to struggling a bit to find them on 'tinternet? TIA