FERRINO

The 1.6 that was fitted in my part built project has 164 cast into the block? Does the 4 just mean it's an earlier block or something? (Apologies for the thread interject Simon )

I wondered about that too? Just bought a set of Locost rear arches and they are exactly the same with that missing section on the Near side. Its only on the near side though weirdly? The offside runs all the way down smooth and level as you would expect. Would be interested to hear if anybody does know the answer. Is wasn't originally to accommodate (or shroud) a 90 degree tail pipe or something silly like that was it?

This is the link you gave in another thread maccavvy:- http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649 Can I ask which size you used please - was it 50x35XM10?

I think he's after a manifold for twin 40's - like this?:- http://forum.wscc.co...-weberdellorto/

That's another superb bit of info Martin! That will be invaluable when I come to redo mine too. Cheers for that

Sorry about the delay getting back to you. I found the manifold last night eventually but it seems to have different inlet centers and fixings when I offered it up against the spare Pinto Injection manifold I've got. Seems to be approx 95mm between the 2 center branches and approx 100mm between them and the outers? I guess it's probably for a X flow or something? Sorry again Tony

I'm positive I've got one that came with the spares when I bought the part built package. I'll check for you tonight. Cheers Tony

Cheers for the info Chris - much appreciated. I can actually easily get to both sides of the lower harness fixings from inside the car without having to remove anything. Does that mean it will be ok? I've had a quick look through the IVA manual in the seatbelt anchorage section. On page 7 of 18 there is a section 'Anchorages on steel chassis'. The third point states "Threaded seatbelt anchorage fastening should be welded into tubes or onto plates of sufficient thickness". Is that stating that 'if' the seatbelt mount points are welded it must be to something of sufficient thickness or is it saying that all threaded seatbelt mount points must be welded captive? Cheers Tony

I like it - extra storage, good thinking. You need somewhere to put your mobile and other bits even when you're driving a kit car I suppose.

Cheers for doing the sketch - I can see how that would work too. To be honest, if what I have will work it would save a load of grinding and re-welding if I just stick with it. I did have a quick think about what to do with the tunnel side panels the other night and have 2 options as I see it. 1) Use the existing tunnel side panels that taper down (notched slightly to clear the angle iron obstruction). This will leave the angle protruding through the sides. When the carpet goes in it can be glued to the angle as it goes over it and a little flap can be cut in the carpet in the rear open area of the angle in case the IVA man asks to see access to the harness mount nut. 2) The stepped out angle iron brings the tunnel sides almost bang on level with the tunnel front - so I could knock up some new 'flat' tunnel sides and just have it run straight back (again with a little flap to get access to harness mount nut when required) In hindsight - I should have purchased some 7/16" nuts during this section of the build and welded them captive to the back of the angles - I didn't and now its hard to get to for welding and its painted - ahhhhhhh hindsight!

Here are some old pics from when I was laying it out, showing the clearance to the seat sides etc:-

Yes I did have a panic moment on that one too - but I've got 8mm clearance each side to the angle. Once the tunnel floor is cut, the prop will drop downwards at the diff end and then slide out backwards.

I think I can sort of see what you have done (as you say the pic is not the best but appreciate you having a go at getting one for me). So - off the cross support bar, you've just got a length of metal strip (twisted so that its the right way) that the harness bolts to? Is that all you need for the IVA? If so I've gone waaaaaayyy over the top

Cheers for the advice agent_zed. There is actually a fair bit of room to the inside mounts when the seats are in (the KPD seats are pretty narrow as well as low profile). Funnily enough I've actually got less room to the outer mount points believe it or not. I'll try and get some more pics tonight looking from above when I've got the seats bolted back in. Have you got any pics of how you did your inner mount by the way? Cheers Tony

Thanks Steamer - much appreciated. The more experienced eyes I can get cast over it the better Yes I can still get the prop out - I'm also planning to cut open and remove the floorplate inside the tunnel to allow the heat from the engine bay to get out so that will help too.

It all feels incredibly strong now and seems to work ok, so I gave it a quick coat of smoothrite and took some pictures whilst it was drying:- The flash reflecting off the wet paint makes it look like there is messy weld spatter everywhere on these pics - but it's just the flash reflection (honest guv):- As mentioned above, any advice/problems with what I've done that you could point out would be gratefully appreciated. I would rather have to rework it now than after the examiner has shaken his head at it. Cheers Tony

Afternoon all - I've recently been working on fitting some seat supports and harness mountings for the 2B build. Having done the welding and drilling for it now I'd appreciate peoples thoughts/opinions on it with regard to IVA suitability etc. I know it's fairly late now I've done it lol - but if anybody spots a huge no-no it would be much appreciated and easier to fix now rather than having the Inspector point it out when the time comes. The chassis had no provisions for the above when it arrived. I don't like the idea of just fixing seats down to flimsy floorplates (load spreaders behind or not) so decided to go the angle iron route. I believe most people go down the route of strapping the angle iron underneath the car and bolting through into it. My seats are the KPD fibreglass ones with the runners fitted to both. Even thought they have runners they are still pretty low profile so decided that I could get away with sitting the angle on top of the floorplate and decided to go for 40x40x5 thk section. The rear angle takes the bulk of the body weight loads so I welded that in place both ends to the chassis tab plates. If epic disaster struck and the welds failed the angle sits on top of the chassis plates anyway so I won't fall into the road. The front angle doesn't see as much load so I decided that would be ok just sitting on top of the chassis tubes bolted to them each end with a nutsert where the clamps are. When the rear angle was welded in place - I refitted the seats and suprisingly there was still a slight bit of 'bowing' going on mid span when 2 people were sitting and bouncing up and down. So a centre brace running vertically up to the centre chassis tubes was obviously required. Also as there was no provision for inboard harness mounting points it made sense to combine the 2 functions. So with that in mind I welded up a U shape section made from the same 40x40x5 angle - fitted it over the propshaft and fully welded it in position and up to the chassis tubes (making sure the frame is wide enough to allow the UV joint on the prop to pass through in case I have to remove it). Please excuse the messy looking welding, it has penetrated well and is mighty strong but the appearance sometimes leaves a lot to be desired:- The standard holes provided in the chassis for the outer harness mounting points were too low and too far back really once this setup was in place so I decided to set some of the same 40x40x5 angle back into the frame running vertically to provide a new outer mount point which would be at the same height and position as the center ones:-

Yeah exactly my thoughts - If £60 worth of new springs will make the sliding pillar 'liveable with' vs £1000 of wishbone conversion it's definitely worth a go.

Cheers Si - this was the route I was thinking of going so it's good to hear confirmation that the 250lb works. I was going to have a guess and flip a coin between the 200 and 250lb springs. Been reading threads where people tried the 300lb springs that used to be the suggested solution and the front end became dangerously twitchy and bouncy etc. Cheers Tony

Superb! Many thanks Martin - much appreciated. I don't suppose you have any pictures of how you made yours adjustable at all do you? Cheers Tony

Morning all - I've done a search but can't find the exact answer it seems. Does anybody know what the actual I/D or OD of the sliding pillar front springs are please? What I'm after knowing is are they a standard size ie 1.9" or 2.25" or are they a typical Robin Hood oddball size? Obviously I can measure when I get to sorting out the front suspension, but would ideally like a new set of springs ready to all go back together at the same time. Any help gratefully appreciated as always. Cheers Tony

Ah ok - I was hoping that wasn't the answer, but many thanks for the reply Chris.

Sorry to drag up an old thread - I've got the TRS budget 4 point harnesses which come with a 7/16" screw as standard. This would just bolt the lap belt plates down tight and not allow it to pivot which is not what I want as both my seats are on runners. Having a hell of a job finding somewhere that sells the 'top hat' spacer or whatever its called. Searched on here and many times people have said that Rally Designs have them and also Demon Tweeks etc. Am I being a complete thicky (most likely) but I can't find them anywhere? Any help gratefully appreciated. Cheers Tony

I hope so Ken! Mines exactly the same and I don't have any plans to change it unless some hugely cheap rear coilovers come along. There are loads of 2B's out there with this rear setup and I can't see anything obvious in the IVA manual to suggest it might be a failure point these days? On mine though - the springs are loose unless you set the rear suspension a little higher than ideal. Is yours the same? Cheers Tony

Thanks for the reply Bob. I've got a couple of sets of car spring compressors actually - might be worth having a look to see if I could do something similar. Cheers Tony