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Everything posted by FERRINO

  1. Thanks for the nice comments chaps! Car is now sold and being collected later this afternoon. I had loads of offers through Ebay and txt - all of whom were offering the exact same amount (2k). I ended up getting a bit more than that - but unfortunately the value of things is set by the market. The plus side of not having to spend hours in the garage stripping stuff apart/dealing with postage/having little bits left over outweighs that though - so I'm happy it's going complete. Bit of sadness to see it go - but looking forward to the future hours of trying to get the basket case bike engined Locost sorted properly. At least the car is hopefully going to a good home. A guy from Kent (I think he's a mechanic or owns a garage?) is buying it for his Son as a project to cheer him up as he's had a bit of a rough time by the sounds of it. He appreciates the fact that it's a project car and will require plenty of tinkering and will have some issues to sort - so that is a big plus for me when selling something like this. The last thing you want is someone coming back to you every 5 minutes complaining about things etc. Cheers Tony
  2. Hi Martin - I'm in Rugby (CV21 1JE). I've got someone coming to view tomorrow night and someone else coming Wednesday - but if neither are interested for any reason I'll give you a shout. Cheers Tony
  3. Selling my unregistered sliding pillar build :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223903685166 Cheers Tony
  4. Now on Ebay - I kinda already know I'm going to end up having to break it . Bring forth all the Ebay weirdo's and total timewasters lol! :- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223903685166
  5. If I end up breaking it down - then yes definitely wheels/tyres would be one of the items that would be sold as a set.
  6. Evening all, I've finally decided to give up on the Sliding pillar 2B build and have today bought a locost with a bike engine. The car is tatty and needs a fair bit of work to get it properly right - but at least its already road legal and Mot'd for some summer fun. :- I really enjoyed the test drive I was taken on today. Surprised how gentle quiet and pleasant a bike engine can be trundling around - that is until the taps are opened and then all hell breaks loose! Quite a different animal indeed then lol! So despite putting 7 years on and off into the build of my 2B - I'm going to be looking to move it on. I would love it if someone bought it complete and finished it. At a rough calc I reckon it would be worth at least £2500 broken down and sold as parts but that is such a ball ache to have to do so would love to sell complete of course. Do you reckon I could put this up for £2000-2500 as an unfinished project that starts/stops/steers/all electrics work and pretty much all parts to complete provided? Does anybody know anyone who might be looking? It's much more complete than this now - but it's one of the latest 'outside' pics I have:- Cheers Tony

    Mid trim

    Hi Davo - It's difficult to tell from the pics, but are you sure that's a 2B? Is there a tubular chassis underneath that wide side panel? Cheers Tony
  8. Excellent news Bob! Glad you got it sorted
  9. Thanks Dan - That's my reading (well hoping) of it too. I'm gonna forget it for now and just stick it in for IVA next year and just see what they say. Thanks as always Cheers Tony
  10. Thanks for the replies chaps - it really does help to hear that it wasn't probed in too much depth by people who have been through IVA/SVA. It's Annex 1 of the section in the IVA manual that's worrying me a little as it mentions that an angle less than 10 degrees would have little effect at deflecting the column away from the driver. However - the main page of the protective steering section has 5 conditions that 'must' be met to pass. Number 4 states:- "The vehicle and steering column assembly must be designed such in the event of a frontal impact at 48km/h (30mph) the rearward horizontal displacement and vertical displacement of the top of the steering column and it's shaft do not exceed 127mm. The vehicle should be assessed using the material in Annex 1." My reading of that is that if the column has less than 127mm displacement then the tester should use the info in Annex 1 to determine if it will be acceptable or not? I have more than 127mm of 'collapsible' section - so hopefully the tester wouldn't even need to refer to Annex 1 - Is that how other people read this or have I got it wrapped round my neck lol? Cheers Tony
  11. Hi Rob, Is it possible to get a better picture of that area at all? If that's not a black rubber stop sandwiched with 2 washers sitting on top of the fixed arm, what is that dark area at the bottom of the pillar? People have used all sorts of things to make the bump stop for a sliding pillar. Some suggestions are anti-vibration mounts with a hole drilled through - right up to using an old bit of conveyor belt cut and drilled. See example link below:- https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/38204-sliding-pillar-bump-stops-what-do-you-use/&tab=comments#comment-294262 Would definitely be interested to know what's at the bottom of your strut though. Cheers Tony
  12. Thanks Dan - That's encouraging. I'm guessing my IVA will be at the same test center as you did yours as we are pretty close so that's good to hear. I guess the steering was designed properly on the Zero though and has more of a visible angle? Or maybe I'm worrying about nothing? If it does all have to come out and have multiple sections/bearing blocks and large angles introduced I'd rather now before it gets presented.
  13. Has anybody else had any experience with the steering shaft angle at IVA at all?
  14. That's brilliant - many thanks for that Magh. A few pics would be really-really helpful from someone who's been through it. Many thanks again
  15. Hi Robert - It's difficult to see from the pic but it looks like you have a black rubber bump stop fitted already? It may be that needs renewing if it's making too much of a bang. It's normal for there to be a gap when the weight of the car pushes the hub up the shaft so it's not missing anything in the 'gap' if that's what you mean? Cheers Tony
  16. Hi Magh - Many thanks for the reply. Does your steering have more 'angle' on it than mine? Thanks for the heads up re:the brake pipe. I am planning on wrapping the exhaust and fitting a heat deflector plate also. Also think the picture from above maybe makes it look a little closer than it is? Have you got a piccy at all of the route your pipe takes please? It would be a real pain to have to redo the brake lines at this point so am now very worried about this too . Cheers Tony
  17. Hi all - Can anybody confirm what the IVA man requires for steering shaft angle please (or is it as I suspect one of those very woolly areas that varies from tester to tester)? I'm fairly sure my whole steering arrangement is going to need pulling out and re-doing again . Tried to take a couple of pics tonight to show roughly what it looks like and marked the approx difference in angle between the rack and the shaft (marked as red lines on below pic):- The rack has approx 115mm of travel from the collapsible triangle section - plus the collapsible section of the Sierra upper column. I also have a collapsible steering boss. The shaft is also only about 5mm clear of the exhaust manifold and only approx 1-2mm clear of the chassis rail which is another reason I think it's all got to come out. Any advice gratefully appreciated. Cheers Tony
  18. Evening all, Well 39 days later (due to holidays/weddings/general life etc) I finally got time yesterday to fire her up again - first time since fitting the inline gauge. Apart from fitting the gauge, the only other thing I've done is to put another 5 litres of juice in the tank (maybe I shouldn't have just for continuity sake)? It did it's usual and wouldn't fire even after several 'primes' - totally as expected. I then cracked the fuel rail and let the pressure drop before retightening. After that, fired up first turn of the key - again totally as expected given previous performances. Pressure remained constant on the gauge at approx 2.5 Bar with engine running and revving up/down and sitting at tickover. This time though, when moving the hose to the fuel rail around, no drop in revs and no coughing/spluttering? Weird? Let it run for a while and as it got up to 3/4 temp, tickover was getting very low and needed the throttle opening a little to keep it running which it didn't do before. Struggling quite badly with tickover (sounded way too low). Couldn't see what rpm it was as gauge is not working at the mo. Put it back in the garage and switched it off. Left it 2 hours and went back in to do a test start (expecting the usual no-start situation and having to crack the rail etc). Pressure had dropped to just over 1 Bar on gauge. Primed it on the key and to my total surprise it fired up straight away?! Weird? Switched off and left it overnight. Went back in at lunchtime today. 0 Bar on the gauge - surely it won't start now. Primed on ignition and Bang up it went no problem?? Tried again 3 hours later - fired up straight away again. Fired up again every time I tried when hot and also several times when left to cool right down. Now - I can't quite believe I'm complaining about a a car firing up every time you turn the key lol, but I like a fault to remain until you definitively find the culprit. Logic would say that the addition of 5 litres more fuel is what has done it and I'd tend to agree at this point pointing to 'supply to pump' area that needs looking at. However - it's the new issue of the crappy running once getting up to temp that is concerning me now? It ran nicely before and now only ticks over nicely when cold. Popped a plug out to check and looks a little black/oily so maybe 'choke enrichment' is staying on now? Apologies for the essay - but this car is driving me nuts at the mo Cheers Tony
  19. I agree - Sounds like they are after a log book if only offering 500 - then sell the bits and recoup all of that and more. Type 9 box and LSD would bring in most of that these days! It all depends what condition it's in - is it wishbone chassis or sliding pillar etc?

    IVA spec worries

    I bought this one from Kitspares:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chassis-Plate-For-Great-British-Sports-Cars-GBS-MER0051/253802605108?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  21. Nice Video! What engine do you have in your 2B?
  22. Thanks Jez - that's good to know it's not something silly with the basic setup if you are running almost the same without issue. Unfortunately as you can see in the pic below - I stupidly ran the Injection hose solidly from the back of the car to the front via the tunnel and all the way back down the tunnel again. It's the properly marked SAE J30 R9 hose, but I'm hoping it won't need replacing for a couple of years at least as I'd have to rip all the tunnel panelling out to get at it.:- I've checked the lines all along the route to and from the engine and can't see any obvious point where it's bent too tightly or constricted anywhere. I've got a spare EFI rail with the bog standard Ford fuel line and rail fitting still attached - which I also checked. The hard black plastic fuel line Ford used is way smaller than 8mm I/D (less than 5 I would say looking at it) so it shouldn't really be flow rate issue? Cheers Tony
  23. Thanks for the reply Dan - it certainly is an interesting one! With the fuel pipe, It needs to be more than just physical 'contact' to get it splutter - but it's really not a lot of pressure or downwards movement required to get it coughing. Almost a few mm is all it took last time which surprised me that it had any effect at all with 30+ PSI of fluid inside. That said though - I haven't had it running with the gauge now attached - so it may well be significantly lower than 30 PSI when its running due to some other other issue. Definitely need to make some time this week to annoy the neighbours and get it fired up again. If the gauge still sits at a rock steady 2.2 psi or above, then as you say - pulling it apart to see what's going on in the rail will have to be the next step. Cheers Tony
  24. Thanks for the reply Nigel - food for thought certainly. I will def get a cheapo see through filter on order. I'm still perplexed as to why cracking the fuel rail connection sorts the problem (temporarily) though - that has to be trapped air doesn't it? Low fuel pressure would still be low fuel pressure even after breaking the joint temporarily? As you say - I've not had the engine running since fitting the pressure gauge so must try and get home early one night this week and get it fired up. Might give a further clue if we can see what's going on with pressures when it's running fine/struggling/conked out etc. Cheers again Tony
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