Davo

So the middle thick wire is pushing out 14.5 volts the other thick wire seems to pushing out 0.5 volts at idle. Although it did occasionally spike higher but that could have been my multimeter touching the other spade. so questions : the wiring loom I am installing provides a cable to take that 14v back into the loom. However it does advise if the current produced by the alternator is greater than 80 amps then use a by pass wire to take the feed straight back to the battery. I have no idea what my alternator puts out and with only one set of hands it’s going to be challenging to rev the engine and measure current etc. Is the safest bet best to just take the 14v output from the alternator and run it back to the battery + directly to charge it? On the old loom there was a clip that looked a bit like a voltage regulator. Having taken it apart it look so rusty I don’t even know if it was being used. I don’t know if the alternator has a built in regulator as I know more modern ones do. If I’m taking the output from the alternator back to the battery post, do I need to get some kind of inline regulator?

Makes sense. So what do you think the second thick brown wire with the tape on it is for?

Also seemed a bit thick for an earth! so I can run it, but I don’t expect to get any voltage out of it until I put a 12v exciter into it right? A 12v exciter would only carry 12v low current from the ignition so it would be reasonable that’s the thin blue wire? Wish I’d tested them before taking it out. Another lesson. it looks most like an old Bosch alternator if anyone has anything similar.

Mr Barry, old loom out and new one in position. All going well so far. Could you advise on the alternator though please. Three wires on the previous loom. Two thick brown and one thin blue. I’m presuming one thick to take the charge back to the look or battery +, the thin blue im presuming any ign live as an exciter wire and the other thick wrapped in yellow and green would be an earth? agree? yes, I should have put a multimeter on each of the wires before pulling the old loom out.

Thank you. Appreciated. The original loom is from a Sierra but I’m replacing it with a complete new loom because there were wires everywhere without a clue what they were doing. Random shorts everywhere. I’ve bought a 21 circuit loom which is good value but in reality not much more than wires laid out in bundles going through a fused box. No instructions but if I look at it long enough I’ve got most of it sussed I think. I’ve laid it next to the car and started it on the new loom so all good. Now I have the driving, headlight main and dipped I’m pretty happy although it feels messy at the moment joined together with blocks. the biggest challenge I think will be getting the brake light and reversing lights sorted.

Cheers mr Barry I think I’ve solved the lights puzzle although there are w couple of bits need fine tuning ive got one fairly substantial wire for the main feed to headlights I’ve tried to do the right thing by isolating the switches and power to head lights via the relays. Is it ok to split that main feed out in order to power both the coil side of the relay and the switches power going through it? Or should I find a totally different cable to power the coil side?

Solved with 4 th relay

Bench testing a new loom and I’ve got almost all the way there with the light but slightly stalled and thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask for help. I have 3 switches. one for driving lights. One for headlamps and one to toggle main beam dipped beam. I have driving lights working ok on a relay. I have headlamps working ok with main beam dipped beam ok. The head Lamp works off a switch and relay. The relay then powers the second relay which toggles between main and dipped beam. all good so far. the challenge is I want to be able to switch on the driving lights independently AND have them come on IF the headlamps are on. I thought I could do this by taking the coil side of the headlamp relay and running that as a second trigger for the driving lamp relay (as well as the switch). as suspected that shorts things out. Is there a proper way to do this? Maybe I need a fourth relay in the mix. ive added a truly awful diagram which worked until I added on the fancy part of triggering the driving lamp relay.

Ok so managed to put something together. Not amazing but good enough. Any guesses as to how it’s done?

Just has a quick look. The new electronic distributor has a single connector with two wires. Red which goes to the positive side of the coil and black to the negative side. I don’t they specifically have to go to the coil, it’s just those are nearest 12v and negative earth. there wàs an old wire for the old distributor which is now redundant. have you done any tests? Multimeter on the positive side of the coil to make sure you have 12v? double checked the coil is wired up the right way round? I didn’t! Are the spark plugs firing at all or at just the wrong times? You can check this by removing them from the engine and hold them against an earth to see if they spark. sorry if I’m teaching you to suck eggs. Pretty novice myself

Fitted the same earlier this year also to a pinto. my first attempt I was sure I had it right but got the polarity wrong on the coil and burnt out the circuit on the electronic points. im no expert but doesn’t the ballast wire lower the voltage during start up? My accu spark distributor required 12v. I think I just took that from the positive side of the coil. I’ll check later today for you.

Thank you. I’ve just started playing with an idea. I’ll post back when done! good to finally know the model of the kit. cheers

I was just wondering if anyone had any good photos for ideas for this piece of trim.

Looking through old paper work it looks like both the straight mk1 and the monocoque were quoted for but the price on the receipts seems to align with the mk1.