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Davo last won the day on September 23 2017

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About Davo

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!

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  • Car type
    Robin Hood
  • Full name
    David Boutcher

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bournemouth / Fareham

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  1. Ha. I guess I should have asked earlier. Twice lol. I spent most of last year putting in a new stack pipe and sender in the tank. Then last week I bought a swirl pot and cylindrical facet lifter pump. I was just curious to see how people had these set up and mounted. im playing with the idea of securing a piece of sheet metal of the tank, then mounting the pot and swirl tank there. the only other question I have I think around this is the swirl pot came with various size tail connectors. If the pipe that goes to the front pump is only an 8mm anyway, pre
  2. petew

    Fitted my swirl pot and pump under bonnet drivers side and pump above at side of brake master cylinder

  3. I'm on my journey to fitting high pressure fuel to the car and my first stage is to get a swirl pot and facet cylindrical pump in the boot. Does have anyone have any photos with ideas of how this can be done?
  4. Do you know if this fits the various versions of the Robin Hood?
  5. I think I've probably found my answer. Fuel tank in the back - > low pressure electric pump -> swirl pot -> mechanical fuel pump in the front -> Carb Then when I'm ready to switch to EFI, replace the front mechanical pump with a high pressure electric pump. Is that how its done?
  6. ok, so it looks like if I'm going down the efi route, I'll need to get the option of high pressure electric fuel pump as a start at least. If this is correct, I currently have low pressure fuel on a mechanical pump, I'd need to replace that with an electric fuel pump, and a swirl pot? If I'm doing this in stages, is to possible to have a switchable fuel pump to keep it at low pressure whilst I'm on my weber carb and then switch it to high when I'm ready for injection? Or is this exactly the job of a regulator?
  7. So it sounds like I could do this in two halve. Looking at EFI, if I look through the Burton power catalogue, what am I looking at? Something like those omex kits? They look pricey! or are you suggesting using an original Sierra EFI?
  8. What? I had no idea this was possible. Are there guides anywhere?
  9. I am really tempted and lucky enough have some cash in my pocket. my kids keep telling me to just put in a zetec or all sorts of crazy ideas. The eldest one is 21 and knows it all lol. I’d love to pick up an old zetec and swap it out, but I’m real nervous I’ll get in over the skill level and go from having a car that works to one that does not. I am slightly nervous about pouring money into the pinto in case the bottom half doesn’t hold up.
  10. Well, three years ago I new nothing. Now I still don’t know much but I have completely rewired it, cam belt change, new coil, dizzy and electronic ignition, timing tinkery and I’m doing ok lol.
  11. So you think the cam change is within a novice’s capability?
  12. That’s interesting. So I have a new 32/36 carb, but I was thinking of swapping it out for the more expensive Weber’s, but that was mostly based on the thought that I could easily swap it out myself. I was looking at the same cam swap also, did you fit it yourself or get a garage to do it?
  13. I’ll be interested in this. I have a dgv and get a similar issue. I know where the idle port is on the carb and am convinced it only runs once the progression ports are exposed, never with just the idle circuit. Convinced, there was a blockage, I’ve taken it off, drenched it in carb cleaner, blown air through it etc etc.
  14. It’s a new year, new lockdown and some spare Christmas cash. I was looking for some sound advice on what next to do under the hood, of the hood! I have a 2 litre pinto, dgav, fairly new coil and dizzy but I’m after some more power. move read the burton guides and the usual tricks are a new cam, new fancy carb, stage 2 head etc. by the time I’ve done all that, I’m wondering would it have been better to just put in a newer zetec. I quite like my old pinto for simplicity etc. I was wondering what experiences or recommendations people might have.
  15. Thanks Peter. A change of sparks today made a massive difference although I suspect they will get fouled pretty quickly again. it was running much smoother and I’d almost be happy with it, except I can’t wind that idle screw far enough back as described without the engine dying. I’m convinced it’s running on those progression holes rather than the idle. I guess I might get to the bottom of this if I got a meter to understand if it dies lean or rich. Any expensive dial though!
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