Davo

Thank you, so you would suggest then it would be best to fit just before the mechanical pump?

I have a typical problem of when I start the pinto engine after a couple of days, it takes a while to get the fuel flowing. My guess is because the fuel seeps back down the pipe. It's a mechanical engine driven pump. I was wondering if a non return value would help this? If so, where to fit? Near the carb to keep it primed? Just before the pump in case that's got the imperfection? Back near the fuel tank to keep everything ahead of it primed?

Thank you. It has it's MOT next week so that should give me an indication if I have it roughly right?

Thank you. Only been doing it the wrong way round for 3 years

Really dumb question - doing the ignition timing on a pinto with vacuum advance dizzy. I know you’re mean to cap the vacuum during initial adjustment, but which should you cap off? The pipe to the dizzy or to the carb?

Hi all, I thought I’d try and get the mixture right on my Weber carb into the pinto engine. To do this I used a Gunson color tune allowing me to see the spark. I got the mixture much better but I did notice that the ignition didn’t seem regular like it misses a fire. check out the video and see if you agree or if I’m imagining this

It confirms my understanding at least thanks. Having that wire connected up does mess with other electrical functions though. I noticed with the circuit on the engine became lumpy and the dials were prone to random reboots. I suspect there is a short in my wiring or maybe the voltage from them alternator is unregulated.

Thanks ian. Unfortunately I think the loom takes the excitor wire off the accessory circuit which creates this back feed. I’d move it to the main ignition circuit but I guess then it would be impossible to switch the car off! as it happens, the car doesn’t currently have any battery warning light so I don’t have that luxury. I get what you’re saying though. Was my understanding of how the battery warning light works correct? When no charge is happening the current is lower after bulb the bulb is lit, and when the alternator returns charge it evens it out so the bulb goes out. And that is exactly the reason why I get feedback to the accessory circuit.

Is it an electronic one? Mine has a number of setting depending on how many then the dizzy does per engine revolution. If it is one of these could have gone back to factory settings. I think these type work by measuring current fluctuations on the wire as the spark is made, I don’t think it makes any difference if it measures on the positive or negative side, only that the negative is normally better. In fact the instructions for mine say you should hook it up to the positive side where as the dealers says you should hook it up to the negative side of the coil. Both work but neg is better

Hi all, having gone through a recent rewrire of the Robin Hood, it’s mostly all good but I do have an anomaly I think with the alternator I think. there’s two main circuits, the ignition circuit and accessories on different switches. The anomaly is that once the ignition is running if you switch the accessory circuit off, the gauges etc keep running. my guess is this is because there is current feed back from the alternator, and I’m guessing this is what keeps that circuit alive. there are three wires to/from the alternator - two big fat ones which carry the charge back to the battery and the third cable was the excitor to kick start the alternator into making some current. I understand this cable also has a second purpose (and I could be wrong here!), the positive current feeds through that cable but first lights a battery sign, but when charge is made on the other side it evens the current and the battery light goes out. anyway, the alternator start generating without the wire, so do I really need it? have I wired this up wrong?

Thanks for all the tips. Bought an extension piece that allowed me to add an 1/8 inch pressure sensor and keep the existing switch. the switch isn’t currently used

Ha some good advice. As it happens I don’t have either at the moment. there is currently a sensor in the block hole at the moment but not connected to anything but I’m presuming this is a switch. There’s a guage I like the look of at the moment but it comes with a 1/8 sensor. I’m assuming I can get an adapter to change the pinto 1/4 hole to an 1/8 and plug it straight in? Or I can get a t piece and have both?

Is there any reason if I replaced the oil sensor switch with a pressure sensor and used a gauge that I would need the warning light? Surely if the guage was measuring 0 that would be the same as a warning light?

No that’s perfect. Fitting a warning light feels cheaper and simpler than a fancy gauge.

Thank you. I’ve had my water temp connected up for some time, and like you say, on mine it’s above the dizzy. So just to be sure, is it an oil pressure switch or gauge to the right? As in, should I wire a warning light or gauge to it?