danielbrookes

Thanks guys, worked a teat! After over 5 years building I took it to the end of my road and back (about 25 yards, quiet) and what a feeling. Huge grin

Yea I might look at switching to hydraulic at some point but for now I’m just concentrating on getting it through the IVA. hopefully this time round it’s fine and doesn’t snap.

Evening, After a recent clutch cable snap on my MT75 gearbox I now have a replacement cable. What is the install and setup process? I am reluctant to spend another 50 quid on a cable! I suspect previously I had the cable way too tight. Thanks, Dan

It’s strange, I am going to make a bracket to attach bearing to the arm tomorrow. Looking on eBay pics it looks like I have the right parts but the design seems too easy for bearing to come away, maybe my clutch arm is slightly worn. There are some plastic “hoops” on the rear which I should be able to attach to. Seems like overkill but I don’t want to do this job again! Any thoughts on the fulcrum end and the way that attaches? Again it seems a little loose.

Engine out an as expected the release bearing wasn’t seated in fork. Fork had also come off the fulcrum. Should there be a circlip or something on the fulcrum/fork? It seams to come off with a little force - I would rather not take the engine out again so is there a more perminant solution? The bearing itself doesn’t sit amazingly tight into the fork. It’s the GBS supplied one, I am going to make a bracket to secure it better. Is this a common or known fault? Both the fork and bearing don’t fit very securely together.

Another question - is a replacement cable available from a stock car, say a Ford Focus? I’ve been reading that the Kitapares cable is specially made but I want to the sort this tomorrow. I live too far from Kitspares to drive down.

Hi, little bit frustrated. I am nearing IVA and decided to try putting the car into gear and driving up and down my drive, bang, clutch cable snapped. Now my clutch fork feels very loose and I think the release bearing is no longer seated in the clutch fork, I could be wrong as I only had a very quick look before shutting garage door. Before I give up and take the engine out (!!!!!) my questions: 1. What generally causes this? Had I adjusted the cable too tight, if so what is the process to adjust the cable? 2. Can the clutch fork be re-attached from the little access panel on the side of the MT75 bell-housing? The fork feels like it is no longer "seated" properly in the pin. 3. If the release bearing has come out of its seat (probably not right word - but from memory it clips into a rectangle hole on the fork) can it be re-seated from the access panel on the side of the bellhousing? Does anyone have any suggestions or quick fixes that don't involve taking the engine out - I really, really don't want to do it again. Thanks!

Great, thanks I’ll liekely do the same. The pickup pipe is at an awkward angle so I have to angle the sump slightly to get past bell housing which I don’t think is helping.

Thanks - I’ll do that. Hopefully I can get a seal with the correct gasket

Evening, I have a Brisca F2 lowered sump and it requires a cork gasket (found out the hard way trying to get a seal on the stock gasket failed miserably). Whats the best method to ensure the cork gasket lines up correctly with the engine? Should I also use sealant as well, say loctite 5980, or will cork be good enough? Trying to get the standard rubber gasket to sit in the right place was a nightmare and I can see the cork gasket being the same. Thanks!

Bingo! Thanks very much, I found the bolt you refer to and you are correct I had jammed it whilst putting the wheel on. I owe you a beer.

Hmm not having much luck. With the wheel off the key does exactly the same, it goes in but does not turn. Any suggestions?

Brilliant, thanks for your advice (again) :). Will take a look later today I must have got lucky first time round.

Aye I’ll take a look in the morning - you know what it’s like, these things all make perfect sense afterwards! It will be something daft.

I think so - but moving the steering wheel doesn’t do anything (it did before I removed it). I suspect the wheel isn’t on properly but can’t see what I’ve done wrong.

Evening, I had to remove my steering wheel to mess about underneath my dash - now when I fit the steering wheel back I cant get the ignition key to turn. I am sure its something daft and I am planning on taking a proper look in the morning but though I would ask the question. Is there a particular knack to getting the piece of plastic for the indicator "self canceler" and also fixing the issue I have with the ignition? I suspect the steering wheel isn't fully "seated" and tightening the center bolt has simply pulled the collapsible column further out. I don't want to start hammering the steering wheel out of frustration. Thanks, Dan

All sorted thanks guys. New bulb was £1:50 from Halfords, probably not the cheapest but convenient for me. Car now runs, alternator charging and battery light goes out

Bit the bullet and removed my light cluster, I shouldn’t be so lazy! Off to get a bulb that fits and hopefully that will be all fixed

Earths good, tried with a bulb and voila - works a treat, bulb goes out and alternator charges. Is there any way to get it working with the LED? The reason I ask is I have quite a nice little light cluster. To get the existing LED out will be an absolute faff about.

Just checked and it is wired as above. My diagnosis is wrong though. When car is running the battery led is dimly lit. I get 14.3v at battery, 14.3v on positive side of LED and 11.3v at negative side which comes from the alternator. Its a type one and is wired as per Any ideas what I should investigate?

Thanks, I had read that elsewhere as well. I will need to check and confirm for sure after my Sunday morning dog walk; but from memory I have wired it as above.

Hi, hope this is an easy one. At the moment if I run the car I get 13v at the battery and the LED battery light is dimly lit. If I flip the wires on the reverse of the LED the light does not come on but I get 14v at the battery. Do I need to put a resister in between LED and alternator? If so how many ohms? It’s the Denso alternator from Kitspares. Wiring loom is my own and everything else works without issue. thanks, Dan

Hopefully final question on this one...the diameter of the manifold and the CAT's I have been looking at are both 2", I was thinking of using a sleeve to connect the two with a decent exhaust clamp each end, then finally another clamp connecting CAT to silencer. The clamps I have been looking at are the strap type so look pretty inconspicuous ( Manifold > (Clamp) > Sleeve > (Clamp) > CAT > (Clamp) > Silencer I think it will look OK and allows me to remove the CAT in the future if needed. Assuming I have the space, are there any reasons why this wont be acceptable for IVA or generally is a bad idea?

Looking over at Pauls block it seems like the coil pack mount is doable (http://paul94-gbs-zero-build.blogspot.com/2013/01/inlet-air-control-valve-iacv-and-hp.html) so Ill be going down that route.

Thanks, from what I read its the conclusion I came to. I'm going to see if I can mount it on the same bracket the coil packs on but I suspect there isn't enough room. Failing that I will see how I get on with it mounted at the front as per the screenshot.