Dean Roberts

Massive thank you to everybody involved and the hard work to get this together. Everything was perfect for making the rushed weekend as pleasant a possible, lot's of banter, food and fun for all of the friends and family. Absolutely missed seeing a lot of you during the last 12 months and must make an effort to play more and work less....(even thou, I still got called out Sat PM.) ....Tractor, you're advice worked "switch it off and back on!" Great to see Mel but missed Stu and Fraz, suppose this is a plus point, as it kept Nikki out of trouble and no broken noses this year With all the events disappearing, this is a must for all families to attend, the more, the merrier and to have an all weather venue is the icing on the cake. Please, please, please everybody spread the word and make every attempt to reserve the weekends in September for this event. Once the date has been confirmed we will be attending again. Take care everybody and a big Thank you from Dino, Nikki & the kids.

How the hell did you get a hangover drinking water

The Leicester massive....! Andi + co Keith + co Tractor R any of these going?

Dino,Nikki & kids + caravan on electrics - paid at Stoneleigh

Daytona replica club information: http://daytonareplicaclub.moonfruit.com/#/rh-engineering/4585376718 Important stuff highlighted: Richard Stewart was the owner of Robin Hood Engineering located (obviously) in Nottingham. He first decided to make a replica as far back as 1984. With a background in body repair, restoring classic cars and making 'one offs'. ROVER SD1: The first models were based on a Rover SD1 and all metal. This was a major engineering remake. The rear two doors were removed and the rear axle moved forward to obtain the dimensions of the original. Coil overs were added as much of the weight was removed and to lower the rear end. The Rover's fuel tank was moved to the boot. Steel metal covered the join. This work took around 12 weeks. Large amounts of tubing and strengthening was added so there would be no 'scuttle shake'. Full conversion including the leather remake was £8500 plus VAT. Not surprising really due to the vast amount of work involved. The original V8 was sufficient enough to propel the car along nicely although the sound was not quite right. JAGUAR/DAIMLER: However Stewart wanted a more accurate model so developed the RS Daytona. Approximately 40 cars were made in total. Unlike other replicas of the time the RS utilises the Jaguar floorpan which is shortened. The bulkhead and chassis is also retained. Jaguar spent millions developing and testing the base car so why change it? Welds are a common failure on ladder frame chassis cars. Stewart was so convinced it the safety and strength of his cars he gave a 3 year unconditional guarantee! Completed cars were offered at £22,000..a lot of money at the time but testament to the quality of the product. In fact Martin Lilley the owner of TVR at the time ordered one of these in red with beige leather and chrome wires. Later it had an upgrade to getrag 5 speed manual. Total cost £25000. This vehicle is now owned by a member of the club. The finished product was fautless and millimetre perfect dimensions. Original Ferrari windscreen is used. Wheels were Compomotive alloys or MSW chrome wires, with 215/70 x 15. Double duck hood to original specification. Pop up or plexi-glass headlights. Doors have massive side impact protection in them. Fibreglass tonneau cover hinges in the middle to allow it to fit in the boot. Maybe contact GBS direct and see if they have any history. I believe the original owner of RH Engineering is retired and still lives in Nottingham.

Multi tasking mate (a rare commodity in this day and age). You forget , my trade is computers. .......So 10 mins on google and a quick cut and past while upgrading the cisco network is feasible. Hence the PC screens and not a tablet, when my desk looks like this:

An immaculate V12 version went in 2014 for around £38,000: 1974 Ferrari 365 Daytona Spider by E G Autokraft Sale price: £45,000.00 make an offer Last update: 13.11.2014 Pending offers Date: 2014-11-18 Ebrahim (from London) offered 38000 gbp

Ruff idea of the prices going in the states on newer versions of the kits: http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C584334 - ASKING $59,000 US DOLLARS http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C663636 - Basic shell - "ASKING $11,999" One on evil bay and reserve not meet yet...: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Replica-Kit-Makes-Ferrari-Daytona-/182201578432 Modern turnkey versions based on Datsun available @ $19500 Or Corvette versions going at @ $69,500 If its all above board and completely road legal on the UK market, then here is a few - http://www.newsnow.co.uk/classifieds/cars-vans-for-sale/ferrari-daytona-replica.html Looks like a non-R-Hood version 1981 model is going for around £19,000 A Ferrari kit based on a donor Ferrari??? - going for £55,000 in 2010 https://replicars.wordpress.com/2010/06/02/southern-roadcraft-ferrari-daytona-replica-for-sale/ http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Majorette-Ferrari-364GTB-4-Daytona-Red-1-24-Scale-Model-Car-/131877756543?hash=item1eb486de7f:g:e0YAAOSw2zlXh9VL - (£25 in the UK) ....and yes I was being sarcastic about the UK market A more realistic UK price is shown here: http://www.classiccars.co.uk/ferrari/365gtb_4_daytona/advert/10520 (just add a couple of zeros on the above price - £25,000) This is the closest I can find to the same engine based model in Netherlands and was in the auctions at a reserved price of £68,714 So the prices really vary a lot on the background information and how legit the car really is: http://cars.trovit.co.uk/index.php/cod.frame/url.http%253A%252F%252Fwww.classicandperformancecar.com%252Fferrari%252F365%252Fferrari-365-gts-4-daytona-recreation-1973-in-london-london-united-kingdom%252F163021%252Fad%253Ftrv_cid%253Dd135b7b31dd7b8568192faf8563a6e65b2dabeaa/id.1hYjD1Q1o1s1N/what_d.ferrari%20daytona%20replica/origin.2/section.1/section_type.1/pop.1/

Thanks Ian, they are only diddy rear disks and I'm hoping to replace the front with some bigger 4 pots at the same time if my budget (free or cheeeeeeeeep) allows So maybe a look at the master cylinder sizes might help and then. No doubt I will be panicking later in the year

Cheers Guys for all the information, it has all paid off and the Shaguar now has a little certificate to say its road safe......Yaaaaaaaaaay! Meantime, I have had a little prezzie thru the post in preparation for the winter time: And since Eurocarparts have been having a 30% sale, the new disks and pads will be mega cheeeeeeeep!

Any pictures?

That would be cruel....Funny, but cruel.

You should know, you have relatives that live there http://www.carsinthepark.com/id4.html Cars in the Park is held at Beacon Park, Lichfield on the first weekend of July each year. The event is organised by The Rotary Club of Lichfield St Chad with all funds raised being spread over a number of local, national and international good causes. The event attracts not just car enthusiasts but families too. Beacon Park and the cathedral city of Lichfield have plenty to offer visitors. Please click on the photos below and visit their websites: Campers Important News for those of us staying overnight in Beacon Park: There are excellent catering facilities on site during the day. In the evenings there are many first class eating houses and pubs locally. Three are of note for campers. The Carvery at The George Hotel is excellent. The Rotary Club meet at the hotel every Tuesday and we cannot recommend it highly enough. For those of us looking to concentrate on a good drink when camping out the two finest ale houses in Lichfield, without any shadow of a doubt (in the opinion of the members of the CitP committee who have carried out an in depth and continuous survey) are The Queens Head and The George and Dragon. In the evenings both offer excellent beers and simple fayre by way of rolls and ploughman’s. Both Pubs are within a 3 minute walk of Beacon Park with the Queen’s Head perhaps having the edge as you don’t have to cross any roads to get to it! If you get chance, and you enjoy a good pint, then you could do worse than pay a visit to either of these two traditional Marstons pubs.

Big car event this weekend if anybody was interested. FB users: https://www.facebook.com/Rotary.cars.in.the.park/ Non-FB users and pictures: http://www.carsinthepark.com/id1.html

Yes sir, she will give you a call, when she gets there.

Dan, What does he hit at around 1min22 ?

Because its therapy for the mind during the dark, depressing months where I dip into a spiralling rabbit hole of sadness. .....and its better to tinker with the car and learn new skills instead of playing stupid computer games or upset chavs for sport.. When I say I'm going to change it....doesn't mean now! It means one day when the car is SORN and I get some spare time (basically January 2017), then I will have a go at upgrading the brakes to match the great engine that Mr Perry so kindly shared. .....Meantime, It's a tidy up, sanity check, MOT and then get some miles on it.

No Worries Nigel, I think most of the UK footballing nation were a bit miffed (to say the least). I think all footballers should have an equal fixed wage and then work on a incentive scheme (a bit like fantasy footy) to get there wages elevated. Example - as per most work force - Manager is the highest paid, then midfield, strikers and defender are equal. They would get a bonus for getting into the 1st team, bonus for playing 90 minutes, bonus for scoring goals, bonus for..... (you get the picture). Then they would suffer deductions for losing, letting in goals, etc.. The argument that they should be on high wages encase there career takes a dive (no pun intended) or suffer and injury is null & void, as they have insurance that covers this. And if they don't like the life style, then get a proper job like all us other mugs. .....There I had my rant also Meantime.....I'm going to follow your advice on the bias bar and attempt to get it so it looks like the following pictures (one of the nights this week): And also look to get hold of one of these on the cheap and fit it: As one of these days Nikki will find me passed out, upside down, and stuck in the foot well of the kit. She will also be wondering what infantile, perverted things I was up to...

No worries guys, I have every intention of tidying this up. But this being the first time I have encountered a bias bar and a non servo car, thought I would have a look at it. And sure enough as per previous messages checked for the binding issue and found it to be true. No worries of it being on the road yet, as it needs the MOT cert. But this is far, far better than it was. The brakes work now so just need to copy the diagrams provided. I believe it's a 0.2 or 0.25 leeway allowance for the space between the pedal and clevis for the yoke to play with. I'm hoping the big washers (as per Wilwood pedal box provide) will help with this and line them up better. Please correct me if I'm wrong, as all this is new to me and I have no guidance except you guys.

Plenty of conflicting information online and can easily make things confusing for anybody who has never experience this type of set-up before.. I'm just more surprised by how much of a difference a small increment on the bias bar can be. Either that or the alignment of the rods....Totally transformed the feel and performance from the brakes. Just need to save the pennies and then look into improving the looks and performance of the fronts and upgrade the rears to disks during the SORN period.

I've been back on the rollers for some more brake tests last night. Rear Brake readings According mechanic/rollers the 1st time (MOT fail): 52 49 2nd attempt after rebuilt drums (MOT fail): 101 100 After balancing upside down with a LED touch in my mouth and mastering the art of pedal operating with my forehead I found the brake bias bar catching on the pedalbox and crooked push rods going to cylinders. I adjusted the balance bar to free up the binding and aligned the rears brake push rod in a more suitable position. Crooked rods slightly straightened: You can see on the left of the clevis where the paint has been scuffed: And yes the pictures are upside down...This was my view when adjusting and taking pictures. 3rd attempt after quick adjustment of the bar: 153 150 An MOT pass (barely). What is even better, was that now the front brakes are registering even higher on the rollers. A great learning curve, involving something that's just as important as going faster - Stopping power. The proof in the pudding was when I returned home I attempted an emergency stop. Which to mine and Nikki's amazement locked up and slid in a controlled fashion. Now to get the MOT booked and then just a few final adjustments: A couple of large washers on either side of the balance bar (to stop any chaffing) and re-thread it correctly so the push rods are perfectly straight with the cylinders. I might even fit a remote adjuster on the dash, to stop any more head stands in the foot well area

Very clever... I was looking to deep into the reference to Chuffing and Thomas the Tank... Never clicked about the try and try and try and try again until you succeed...

Don't u mean Thomas???

Fingers crossed I can get the kit thru the MOT re-test on Monday and pop over to the meet-up on Wednesday night.