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dandan62

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by dandan62

  1. Thanks but definitely pinking. It varies with the change of timing.
  2. Aha..it's got to be something like that. I will check when I can. Good thought. Thank you
  3. I may put the old one back but it involves resurrection of the old Sierra wiring which I had done quite a good job of tidying away.It never linked with it but didn't run smoothly. Found worn shaft and mechanical advance jammed. Vacuum advance leaked. Yes it only pinks under load but not only the usual high gear up hill but acceleration at reasonable revs. So.. Cam timing is correct. Checked Mixture good. 2 different makes of distributor and electronic ignition units tried. Runs most sweetly highest revs when at idle at about 9 degs btdc. Pinks badly Pinking better but still there at 3 degs. Don't want to retard more. Not got the power it has at 9 degs. Running super unleaded
  4. Sadly all of the above done already which is why I'm at a loss. Plugs good colour. Mixture perfect.
  5. Curious! Swapped out for a powerspark unit. Exactly the same issue. Pinking a bit even at 3 degs btdc. Runs really well at 9 degs as I would expect but the pinking is ridiculous. I'm lost now. Can it be carbon?
  6. Seems that's the problem then?
  7. Sadly it's not that one which is programmable but the standard unit which replaces points. I tested the timing at a few rev points. It seems to reach max of about 34 by 1800 revs then stays there. This seems early?
  8. Been away for a few days so back to this problem. Am I wrong or does the stealth unit just deal with dwell and not the timing? Therefore the problem is with the dizzy advancing too fast? I'll do a rough curve to see what is going on. Actually still pinking at 2.5 degs.
  9. Max advance seems to be 35 degs at 3400 so in the right ball park. Thanks for the offer of the modules swap but tricky with the distance.
  10. I put a new accuspark dizzy on with the stealth module because the old original dizzy on my 1.6 pinto was worn. I used to have the timing at about 10 degs. It now runs with a huge amount of pinking at that setting. I have it set at about 2.5 degs to not pink. It runs best at idle at about 8. On the road it seems to run ok. It's hard to explain why it has changed? Any thoughts. Also is there any problem running it at 2.5 degs? I obviously want to avoid pinking. I have checked all static timing at tdc which are fine. Anyway I have not altered anything else.
  11. I'm also thinking of changing to a 3.92. Mine has been making noises for a while. When I got the car it was dry of oil! I noticed some on ebay from Poland. Anybody got any experience of buying from him?
  12. All sorted. A corroded connection in the plug to the stalk connection. I love simple solutions. Thanks for all your help
  13. I'll check but since the headlights work and they are in the same stalk I expect the feed to be there. But I think it must be a problem in that area. I not good at electrics!
  14. I have just discovered my front and back side lights, rear fogs and number plate light aren't working. I have checked and there is no voltage to the two fuses, which are fine. The Haynes wiring diagram baffles me. Any ideas where to start? It's Sierra based. The only thing I've done in the last few months is replace the ignition barrel and I don't know if the lights have worked since then as I haven't been out at night. I put the old one back and still no lights. All other lights are fine.
  15. Shame. Just sourced one off flea Bay. Thanks anyway.
  16. If anyone has one of these that needs a good home and is a reasonable price plus postage I may be interested. Even better if it comes with a manifold. David
  17. dandan62

    Carb Swap.

    Already fitted the 2lt cam which gave a bit. Recently fitted an electronic accuspark dizzy which helped. I think the original dizzy was worn out anyway. I think I'll stick with the 32/36 upgrade as planned and not go mad. They seem easily available.
  18. dandan62

    Carb Swap.

    Wow. Even 100hp would be beyond my windiest dreams. I actually wouldn't want more than that as my 20 year old son has a heavy right foot so I need to protect him a bit. I won't tell him the potential is 200! I also want to protect the engine and drive train a little as I have no history and there are already noises from the gearbox or diff although they haven't got worse in 2 years.
  19. dandan62

    Carb Swap.

    Thanks everyone. All good info.
  20. dandan62

    Carb Swap.

    Yes I'm looking at a couple with manifolds. I suppose the main question is if the throttle linkages are the same. Tricky to tell from photos.
  21. dandan62

    Carb Swap.

    I have a 1.6 pinto with the standard 28/30 carb. Is there a bigger one that would be a straight swap with no adaptation needed? I believe there is a 32/36 but which model? I love this little revvy engine but feel it could do a little more. Old carbs seem to be available cheaply.
  22. What lead me down the starter route was when it wouldn't engage after the winter. I put it in gear and rocked it and that did it. Must have been coincidence and the ignition got a good contact. Good to know there are others out there
  23. I must learn to work a problem fully before jumping in here! It turned out to be the ignition switch. Took it apart and it was very corroded. Needless to say it came apart with springs and ball bearings flying everywhere. One spring missing but it went back together OK and problem solved. Hoping I can get my money back from eurocarparts for the starter now!
  24. Further investigation shows no 12v on the ignition connection to the solenoid when the key is turned. So something is wrong between the barrel and the starter I presume. But a twitch on the rev counter shows I'm getting current somewhere. Looking at the relays there is one with a power symbol. 70Amps. Could it be that maybe?
  25. Hi. Since uncovering after the winter I have had intermittent starting. When the key is turned the dials twitch a bit and nothing. Eventually it turns the starter with many turns of the key. Sometimes just holding the key in position it will then turn after a few seconds. I have double checked battery connections and earthing several times. I took the starter apart and cleaned although I was unable to open the solenoid. Since doing that it fails to turn at all. I presumed I had finished it off by taking it apart. New starter fitted. Same thing but no amount of turns gets it turning. Is there anything else in the system? I think some sierras have a stater relay? Any thoughts welcome.
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