AndyW

13 hours ago, Dave R said:

andyw if you want to come look at mine, free free

Thanks for the offer Dave. I had a good look at Derek's Surrey top this week, so I'm probably ok on the awning rail and fixing.

I'm still pondering on whether to stay with my existing press studs on the screen, or change the front fixing to an awning rail. In the 3-4 times I've had to drive the car in rain over the past 6 years, I've not found that much water comes over the top of the screen between the material seam. I'm tempted to live with the current fixing to reduce the amount of work. Also, I tend to undo 3 poppers on the edge of the windscreen and fold the roof over as an aid to getting in or out of the car. I wouldn't be able to do that with an awning rail fitting.

Thanks for asking Derek. So I’m on the right lines with that PU coated material. Looks like that company don’t do a 330 gsm, only a heavier weight 380gsm but that might be too thick to easily work and sew.

As you suggest I was already considering changing the windscreen mount to an awning channel with coax cable in the Surrey seam to slide in. I’ve got poppers along the top of the windscreen at the moment and they do allow some water to come in over the top of the screen in heavy rain. So I could remove the poppers and either screw or bond a rail on. Just need to work out how to make the curves for the edges 

Hi Derek,

I’ve seen this material mentioned before, which seems suitable.

https://www.profabrics.co.uk/products/6oz-pu-coated-nylon?variant=6809898435

A couple of meters to try won’t break the bank. And I have my existing Surrey top to use as a template, so just need cut and hem it.

What material did you use for the Surrey roof Derek? My new year project is to make a new one myself - if the sewing machine (and my lack of skill) is up to it.

Great to see another Superspec on the road. Looks good. And unusual to see the handbrake mounted on the right of the driver’s seat instead of by the passenger seat. How is the cable linkage arranged?

Yes, me too

My ticket booked. Can only make the Saturday this year but will stay as late as possible.

Unfortunately got called out to help with family stuff just as I was about to leave, so I didn’t make it either. 

Hi James,

I can’t help you with the details of the tank in your Mk2, but I had a similar strong smell of petrol in my Superspec, which has a Fiesta Mk4 petrol tank. It was most pronounced after filling the tank and on acceleration and cornering.

I discovered 2 problems. The tank has a small 5/8”? rubber breather hose, which on my car was only about 20cm long and just stopped at tank level in the boot area behind my head. Under movement of the car with a full tank, petrol was coming out of this pipe and just running down behind the seat panel. Secondly the main filler hose and petrol cap wasn’t making a good clamping seal on the back panel, and again petrol was flowing back up the filler pipe on acceleration and running down the rear stainless panel.

My solution was to replace the fuel filler cap with a new better one with built-in tube, and also to put in a new longer breather hose that feeds back into an alloy tee into the filler hose. So more of a closed system with less openings to the air.

My Fiesta tank has stub tubes for the main filler and breather so it was easy to check all joints were tight. Not sure what you can do with the grommet to better seal the Sierra tank hole. 

Cars on the Farm is a full Fri-Mon weekend event, but you can go just for the Saturday. Cost is £5 for a day ticket. Follow the link in the above post to buy an e-ticket.

44 minutes ago, Charlie F said:

whats the "Cars at the Farm" ?

https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/events/event/870-cars-at-the-farm-23/

https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm

Yes I’m still using that Halfords car cover. Into its 3rd year now, but it is showing signs of deterioration. It’s not fully waterproof now as I notice water on the bonnet after taking the cover off after heavy rain. The material seems fine, not flaking like some others I’ve had, the seams are still intact, and it hasn’t cracked or torn, so not sure where the water is getting in. I do notice the cover seems to have stretched a bit over 3 years. It now drapes on the ground at the sides which it never used to.

For the price it’s lasted well. I’d like to see how a Stormforce cover at twice the price would do. 

I've just taken the prop out of my Superspec (similar to a 2B). I don't think I could cut a hole in the floor panel that Derek has marked, as there is a large (6"x2") L shaped angle iron crossing the whole width of the car in that area. The seats, seat belts, and handbrake adjusters are all bolted through this for strength. Don't know if that's unique to the builder of my Superspec, or if they all have it?

To remove my propshaft, I had to undo the 3 bolts on the gearbox UJ, and the 4 bolts on the diff UJ, pull the 2 sections apart at the spline joint, and remove the tube from the rear and the spline joint from the top of the tunnel.  All to replace a missing rubber dust seal on the spline joint!

You meant this Wednesday 5th ?

As a 2B Superspec owner I can confirm the stainless tubular chassis is incredibly strong and to my knowledge no-one has ever had a problem with cracking of welds on the main structure.

The only welds that are known to have cracked on a couple of cars, including mine, are the cross plate that holds the steering rack to the chassis tubes, and the L-shaped bracket for the Rover engine front engine mount. Both easy to spot and fix. 

Yes add me please Peter

Supposed to be able to turn it with an oil filter type chain wrench if you have one. Needs about a 30 deg anticlockwise turn to unlock from the bayonet tabs.

Thanks Chris, yes I’m aware of those previous issues. The Superspec steering shaft was made by RH to fit between the Escort Mk1/2 rack and the Mondeo column, with 9/16 x36 splines at the bottom and Ford triangle at the top.

It’s 875mm long and spares are no longer available, but I can get a 250mm shaft with splines from CBS. I’ve already got a replacement UJ, so now need to get the old shaft cut down and the short end welded on together with a strengthening tube.

There’s lots of conflicting information on the internet! Some say steering columns shouldn’t be repaired or welded and others give differing methods, roll pins, bolts, plug welds etc. Difficult to know what’s right and wrong sometimes!

Richy, did you mean cut my existing shaft and weld a new splined shaft on the end? Or weld a new UJ directly onto the worn splines of my shaft? And wouldn’t the heat cause damage to the UJ bearings?

That would be my preference Richy. I've searched and no-one sells splined shafts as long as the 875mm needed for the Superspec, so I would have to cut it and weld a new short spline length onto my shaft, and probably weld a sleeve over as well.

Trying to find someone locally that is willing to do that sort of welding is proving difficult. Companies I've found so far only do car body repairs, panel fabrication, or large scale industrial stuff. I'm still trying to track down a proper engineering company that could handle one-off work.

Good suggestions thanks. I did think about getting a pressed steel UJ as less rigid. Would giive better clamping especially if I also used a larger high tensile bolt.

As you can see, the splines on the inner end of the shaft are well worn, but I might also be able to cut them a bit deeper with a triangular file to help the UJ grip.

Wonder how strong that stuff is and whether it can really remake splines? I’m not sure I want to risk my safety with the steering failing while driving.

I think I’d rather have a mechanical fix with a new splined shaft.

Thanks Steve. Looks interesting. I hadn't thought of using a compound to fill the gap. Looks expensive though and only available in US.

Does anyone know where I can get a steering shaft to fit a RH Superspec?  Or maybe one from a 2B would also fit.

I’ve had to replace the lower universal joint on the Escort steering rack, but the new forged UJ won’t clamp tight enough on the original splined steering shaft. Looks like the splines are too worn (or not cut well in the first place). The shaft and UJ are both supposed to be 9/16” but it’s a very loose fit and rotates easily.

I’ve tried to close the pinch gap on the new UJ in a vise, but the forged steel is just too hard, and I’ve stripped one high tensile bolt trying to get it clamped tightly.

The shaft is 880 or maybe 900 mm long (can’t measure it accurately in the car), 5/8” diameter, with 9/16” x 36 splines and bolt groove machined on one end, and cut to a V shape on the other end. Top end fits into a V-clamp on the steering column UJ above the pedals.

Alternatively is there any engineering method of “packing out” splines to fill the gap and enabling the UJ to clamp tightly?

Any other ideas? I don’t have any welding options.

Cheers Andy