Mrbarry

Davis Craig are my favorite. But as mentioned above, good installation is vital to success.

I have a ZF flappy paddle box in a jag and its crap. Ok thats wrong its excelent, but as boring as watching mud dry. And as sporting as a jelly.

eBay sellers passing off cheap goods as more expensive ones? Surely not hahaha. Fakery is all too easy these days. Been stung a couple of times.

New ideas are rare. I always planned a LS7 powered Toyota Prius but as soon as I looked at the idea it had been done. Two fingers up to the eco loonies. Slippery shaped car too. Would be a cracking sleeper.

Or as I say. Happy wife, shes having an affair.

Get rid of the mrs its easier. Petrol smells gooooooood.

I ran a 520bhp 2.0 Toyota for many a mile reliably. I had a Garret GTX76 turbo running 2.2 bar for that. It was a sprint and track car but I used it for terrorizing the roads as you would lol. It evolved over 12 years to be that, a forged engine was the base with JE pistons and a lot of time and attention to detail. Some of the best gains came from the most unlikely sources too. Upgrading from a GT to a GTX turbo was a big advancement, not in power but spool up time, the Ti inducer and billet exducer gave me boost a good 5-600rpm earlier (moved from 4300rpm to 3700rpm for 2 bar), swapping the crap eBay intercooler for a high quality extruded internal microfin core meant I could make 2.2 bar at the TB with only 0.3 bar loss from the turbo, I was loosing over a bar on the eBay core due to internal flow resistance. CFD end tanks and pipe work on the intercooler also transformed the car. But the real key was control! Motec Ecu, forget the rest, buy the best. Cost all of it, but the control was so reliable and solid, I tried Apexi, HKS, omex, a few others, Motec destroyed them all. The devil is in the detail. Just as important as the ecu is a mapper however, Adrian smith at fensport is the best Ive come across, not only competent and experienced but passionate about his work, he cares and it shows in results. Biggest issue for me was his location, 114 miles each way every time I had a map tweeked, and that was twice a year as a rule.

V bands on all exhaust joints, port matching and downing etc all help. Its like anything in life tho, you get 90% of the results for 10% of the effort, the last 10% results require 90% of the effort. Where do you see your self?

Thanks thats appreciated. Will make sure you get beer tokens

Seems they fit a fair few older cars. Might Ebay them.

Ah many thanks. Are these useful on a 2B or zero etc or is there a better forum for them?

Cheers

Too thin to take a vented disk so Id say they are for solid rotors only.

Ok Im on it

I can take measurements but Ive had them so long I cant be 100%, Im 99% sure they are for solid however.

Where are you based Dan? Youre welcome to try them for fit.

Brand new, well Ive had them on the shelf in my garage for a couple of years but unused.

I think they are the ones in the catalogue but cant guarantee it. Any help here would be appreciated.

Looking for £50 posted.

You tube it. Its as hard as anything you dont have experience of doing before. Its all about pre stretching but soooo difficult to avoid creases or dirt particles under the wrap.

Agreed about the risk of loosing pictures but I like to have a central point I can call upon for pictures on many forums. I only registered this week on Dropbox, but Pb had thousands of images at one stage across multiple forums.

Colours are different but thats not a issue Ill download a wiring diagram from a Mazda easily enough. Wont be this week tho Im too busy to play cars lol.

Superb, Mazda and ford use the same sender. Also means any future builders can save them selves £65 for the sensor when they order their gauges.

I have a smiths speedometer on my zero, it works fine but with prop movement under acceleration the prop moves out of range of the sensor, its 0.1mm clear stationary so I cant move it closer. I was going to fit a 2 or 3 wire proximity sensor with 6mm range making it easier to stay in range but I have another idea Id like to try. The standard Mazda gearbox speed sender.

The Mazda sensor gives a true sine wave output that is in the frequency range of the input required by the Smiths speedometer, but Im unsure if the speedometer needs a true square wave input or will Work with a sine wave, both have rising and falling edges its just the rate of change that differs. I was hoping someone may have more experience in this area. Google searches are fruitless so far.

Other than that Ill mount a sensor on the diff monitoring the prop so it floats with the prop movement, the gap will always be a fixed xmm that way. Id much prefer to use an oem pulse tho.

On the upside when removing the consol from the zero yesterday to investigate this I discovered the Mazda box also has a neutral switch, going to wire that into the starter circuit so it cant crank if its in gear. Id be more confident to fire her up standing outside of the car that way. May add a clutch switch too so it will crank in gear if clutch depressed like a bike.

Just need to sort the speedometer reference signal now.

Tia.

Im not on there. I use Dropbox.

Open the picture you want to share. In the app click the icons circled in red:

Then past the link in the thread here, add tags front and rear, and change the HTTP code at the end of the link from dl=0 to raw=1

A zero is too high off the floor to get any ground force effect, but the diffuser wont make things any worse. Will keep laminar air flow smoother than not having one so will reduce drag, its not going to be noticeable to a driver in a million years however. A totally flat bottom is the ideal with a diffuser and canyards and a chin lip.... The zero is still too high for real noticeable effects of the diffuser tho. Unless youre doing track work and suffering with control its not even worth worrying about.

Looks wise, diffuser all the way

Its not just in fields and barns. The cars you see on driveways that never move, under tarps and on bricks. I have a friend who had a 2B in his back garden for years before selling it for next to nothing because it was rotting away. I think people have grand ideas about rebuilding them but lack money, ability, time or health. Time passes so quickly and before you know it...

my aunty has a field in Ludlow and puts her old cars on it to use as spares. Im sure somewhere on a Saab forum someone will be talking about the fact a perfectly usable Saab was left to rot in a field lol. Thats a bit different though it was a £300 MOT failure.

At last! Embedded pictures on Dropbox!

url from drop box, swap dl=0 to raw=1 end with