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Mrbarry

RHOCaR Member
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    322
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Mrbarry last won the day on June 22

Mrbarry had the most liked content!

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46 Excellent

About Mrbarry

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 02/02/1976

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    GBS Zero
  • Full name
    Barry

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wolverhampton

Recent Profile Visitors

2,899 profile views
  1. I’m working 7 days a week all month now I would also be up for a evening out tho to meet up and say hello. I’m fairly local
  2. Mrbarry

    shiny bits

    Ah ok. Thought it was the crank shaft pulley. My bad.
  3. Mrbarry

    shiny bits

    Don ‘t fit the big un. The steel one is a damper and is there to balance the crank.
  4. It’s not far from me. I’m also busy 4th and 24th. Not with Kerry however I may add
  5. Mrbarry

    More issues

    Ok wheel off, couldn’t find anything obvious but gave everything a nip up. It seems very basic and simple so not sure why I was told there was a ‘fix’ for something. anyway, turns out the main 32mm Wheel bearing But had come half a turn loose. Gave that a pull up and dimpled the nut properly. Checked the other side and all is well again. 20 minute drive later I’m happy it will be my ride to work tomorrow
  6. Mrbarry

    More issues

    Yep that’s the crux of it oil seal on order. off to take the wheel off in a minute. Ive just got in from work.
  7. Mrbarry

    More issues

    Never ending these kit car problems huh? I had an oil leak last week from the CAS sensor but that was a £2.55 fix that took 5 minutes. This week my rear differential is leaking My wife tried to race me off the lights in a 2L Mk4 MX5 on our way home from my mums, she very very much lost lol. But I heard a noise from the rear and on checking the rear passenger wheel is like a loose tooth. Apparently this is a common Mazda based zero issue.? Im happy enough to bang new oil seals in the diff that’s easy, but without removing the rear wheel I’m unsure of the issue there. I’m told there is a fix for the problem but can’t for the life of me remember who told me, but it was someone on here. Any help appreciated. Just as I thought my car was all sorted too. A bit of remapping has transformed her this week. Now I have mechanical gremlins.
  8. Mrbarry

    Road tax

    2p/L was purely illustrative but yeah. You can find the number of litres sold per year from the web easily and I’m sure it wouldnt be hard to find the number of cars and total duty paid. Might have a google later out of interest.
  9. Mrbarry

    Starting

    Thought I would add some updates to this. I have put off making any changes but have been messing for a few days now. I downloaded the manual for the K6 ECU, it’s a bit long winded in places but very easy to follow. I’ve learned loads about the ECU and have to say I’m impressed with it on paper. As for start up Enrichment, I looked at their suggested numbers and was sure my start up was too lean, I have added masses of fuel at first, second, third, fifth and tenth cranking cycles, I abandoned the standard 1,2,3,50,100 resolution, who holds the key and cranks for 100 cycles? I was able to map it at 20 degrees C because that was my current load site as the engine was at 19 degrees. I warmed it to 30 and did it again, then 40, 50 and kept adding fuel at each site, results getting better and better. As soon as she fires she runs a dream. The biggest improvement came from increasing the initial injector prime values, these where all extremely low. Now it’s very close to how I want it. I still get the occasional spit from the throttle bodies when starting and that indicates either weak mixture or cross firing of the plugs due to poor timing or HT leads shorting under load. I have new leads and plugs to fit tomorrow and try again. I am confident it’s not a timing issue because she runs sweet once started. I’ll be running the engine in the dark later, hood off, to look for cross firing due to HT lead break down. Then it’s a bit more tweaking to the fuel enrichment until I’m happy. The initial injector prime is going to get more attention first, that’s what gets the engine firing early in the cranking cycles according to the manual. I will add more info once I’ve got there. Might help someone else.
  10. Mrbarry

    Road tax

    It’s time they abolished it. Add two pence per L on fuel and it’s fair. More miles, more fuel, more tax paid. No one can dodge it. No admin costs. No need to check if you have it. No need to SORN. No need to have different bands for gas guzzlers they will use more fuel thus pay more tax. I just don’t see the problem.
  11. Agreed Nelmo. It’s still a bad show for £600 worth of gauges tho. But I agree repeatability is the main thing. With my work around I have got it close tho.
  12. Thanks that’s great. I have done a couple of hours of googling and couldn’t find the drawing. I think THAT is also very poor. I did manage to find dozens of forums where people had the same problem, or where they read low or just don’t work. I also found from past experience that my fuel gauge was wrongly programmed, at least they agreed I could send it back to have the correct software installed. It seems all of their gauges are the same internally and simply have different software installed, it’s common for them to put the wrong software in. That’s very VERY poor for even a small business let alone a so called reputable one. As for returning the temp gauge to be calibrated, From the forums I found even after they had been recalibrated they still generally read well out.
  13. Does anyone have the wiring colours for a Smiths flight water gauge? I’ve searched the web and can’t find them. My water temp has always seemed to get high in traffic so I had a play today. I plugged the laptop in and it seems my ECU and flight gauge are 18-19 degrees different right thru the range. I used a IR temp reading from the water pipe off the water pump (the feed to the senders) and the ECU reads the same as the IR reading to within 1 degree from 38-90 degrees. I have double checked it with a K-type thermocouple at rest and it also agrees with the ECU. Next step was to take resistance readings from the sender but it’s log not linear so I can’t add a simple resistor in series. I did some playing and testing and finally found that if I use a diode in series dropping the voltage by 0.6v across the range and it is now reading within 4 degrees of the ECU from 50-90 degrees. I’m happy with that. But I have been working on the sender and I want to put the diode behind the clocks, the wire colours are totally different hence the need for a diagram.
  14. Have you ever taped thread or wool to each of your vents, or the odd one, and watched the air flow at different speeds? I have taped some yellow thread to a few places on the zero and been for a drive. You get some strange results in some places. From the front of the nose cone is really weird how it changes direction on and off. Would love to see how the louvres move air around.
  15. Yeah I thought that to be honest. I could have a row or standard louvres or bolt on a plate off eBay for a fiver. But I don’t want that I want something I can look and feel I have done my best, or paid for it at least Nothing wrong with standard louvres on the top of the bonnet but for my taste those would be better on the side. Again that depends on the individual car to be fair.
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