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Mrbarry

RHOCaR Member
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Mrbarry last won the day on July 26

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About Mrbarry

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!
  • Birthday 02/02/1976

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    GBS Zero
  • Full name
    Barry

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wolverhampton

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Was a good turn out today! Doubled the miles on my car in one day lol. Was 170 miles this morning, 347 now. Went like a dream both ways. Thank to GBS for a great day, and to Steve for sorting my exhaust packing and sleeve.
  2. Sorry I wouldn’t sell just the cover.
  3. Mazda GBS Zero 1800cc. It only has 200 miles on the clock from IVA but did about the same with a faulty Speedo, it’s very low mileage anyway. Spec is high and it has had a lot of money spent on the build. GBS Zero GT with lowered floorpan fitted with Mazda 1.8 twin cam engine. Registered Feb 2015 Spec of Car: This car is wrapped in pearlescant white with the upgraded front wings, powder coated chassis and GBS suspension parts etc etc. 1,8 Mazda engine, gearbox and diff from 1 owner MX5 1998 era, regularly serviced every 3000 miles from new. Car scrapped due to bodywork rot. All other parts are new ATR adjustable shockers New steering rack Emerald K6 ECU GBS bespoke wiring loom GBS Jenvey throttle bodies New battery. Stainless exhaust with cat. Pro race 1.2 15 inch wheels new discs and pads Smiths flight gauges Fully carpeted New belts and bucket seats. Windscreen and wipers fitted New tonneau cover partially fitted - needs studs fitting yet, New hood and sidescreens supplied with car but still need fitting. High performance aluminium radiator. Lots more but feel free to ask questions. The wrap on the nose cone isn't the best but it's not terrible. The car was mapped by Aldon automotive and made 140bhp, on the money really. It has had a bit of work since to ensure the throttle bodies open to 90 degrees, and the brakes no longer stick on as they did then so I’d like to think it would see 150ish. Asking £7250ovno. Thanks. 07932823248 Barry
  4. Well as an electrical engineer with three decades of experience in industry I’ve yet to have an insulated crimp fail that hasn’t been overloaded or subject to some sort interference. Must have made 20,000 of them off. That said we don’t use eBay crimps we have branded ones. You need to be sure you fill the lug too so the crimping process can remove all of the air from the joint preventing movement and high resistance. They are more bulky than naked lugs but make a lower resistance joint.
  5. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ratchet-Crimper-Cable-Wire-Terminals-Electrical-Adjustable-Plier-Crimping-Tool/223584048005?epid=595317011&hash=item340ea5d385:g:2SQAAOSw7CBdC8PF ratchet crimpers are ideal. Even a cheap set like these give a measured compression. Colours are red for up to 1.5mm cable, blue for 2.5 and yellow for 4 and 6mm. You’re into tube lugs 10mm and beyond. I have a couple of sets of crimpers for up to 300mm cables if anyone needs to use a pair. They are much more costly, especially the hydraulic set.
  6. Just as dangerous, it’s just not something they test for. Let's say that car park fire last year was started by a kit with poor wiring, and the investigation pointed to it. Do you think there would have been no come back then? We are all liable for our actions. As for bad wiring causing understeer? If you get a fire at 70mph and panic hitting a parked or oncoming car... it’s entirely possible. More likely you will just end up with a brake down, or a fire in the car at worst, that doesn’t excuse bad practice. They didnt used used to mind you driving after 11 pints, you used to be able to text and drive. I think we all agree they are both bang out of order these days. IVA makes sure that we don’t have brake hoses rubbing on a wheel, that the wheels are held on with enough bolts and that the seat belts are safely fixed.... there is a limit to what they can test in a sensible world. I maintain that people who fit crimps with a pair of pliers are asking for trouble and should invest in the correct tools for the job, £10 off eBay isn’t anyone’s life savings surely.
  7. Maybe so, but if you crimp with pliers it’s in the same league as driving on bald tyres. When it all goes wrong there will be tears and then they blame someone else.
  8. Crimping is something you learn. Same as soldering correctly. It’s something you’re taught more to the point. You do gain a feel for it with experience. Soldering and brazing is the only way in some situations, crimping in others. You wouldn’t crimp a 295mm cable in an 11kv motor, or even a 35mm in a 110v motor. But underground cables are crimped and insulated in resin torpedos as fat as your leg. There’s a bit of science to getting the right joint. On a kit car it’s more important to reduce movement and flex of the joint than how you make it. And if you crimp with pliers or a vice you deserve a car fire!
  9. All of the text books insist crimping is better than soldering, soldering just feels like it should be better in the mind. I like to solder but you gotta make sure you don’t overheat, if solder travels into the insulation that’s where it gets most problematic. I still only solder where there is zero flexibility in the loom tho. Pros for soldering, reduces risk of oxidisation, cheaper, smaller. Cons, risk of heat damage, can be brittle, more time consuming.
  10. Exactly that. Mass production has made micro processors so cheap and common place you get them everywhere. As ive probably posted I’m an electrical engineer and have dealt with a huge array of kit in my 27 years in the field, it is constantly changing and developing. It’s so cheap and easy for a company pluck a programmable integrates circuit off the shelf to do whatever you need these days. Electronics I don’t do, but I have an appreciation of the subject as you would imagine. Few people appreciate the size of the field that is electrical control, each area has specialists and experts. I do know smiths, like many others, use a single board and simply swap the face, bezel, fingers, etc, then program the thing to do as they wish. Stepper motors are precise and efficient and it makes perfect sense. They could make any custom gauge you like from this single base. That’s not to say all of their gauges are identical they do make none stepper motor ones but again minimising parts and sharing enables even more bulk buying power for them. It just makes sense. And ICs can be powerful now, even tiny ones can carry massive processing power with all sorts of custom algorithms built in right from the factory.
  11. Had an email from smiths today. They said send the gauge in and they will mod the software on it to add dampening. The fuel gauge should be dampened but apparently sometimes they assign none dampened software to them. It could be £25 but if it turns out it has the none dampened software (it does) it will be a free alteration. Either way they can sort it with no need to add extra parts or alter a thing. Peter the software engineer was very helpful tbf.
  12. Full set of wet weather gear for a GT including hinges, doors, boot cover, frame, brackets. Brand new never opened. Im looking for £500 a saving of £148
  13. I see what you meant about the Y and the I. You may as well have put a big red ‘do not push’ button in front of me
  14. we crosses posts nicely there they seem a good company. I’ll do a bit of pondering for now but that would make life easy I have thought about adding a damper weight around the pivot point of the arm in tank. Significantly raising the moment of inertia wouldn’t allow the float arm to move rapidly, but it would still move freely. It would need to be finely balanced and centred to avoid misreading tho.
  15. I called smiths they insist it’s how it should behave and would need external suppression. It’s little more than a seesaw with electrons really, I’ve found a company who sell a solution but at £50 I’ll put up with it as it is haha. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251240184459
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