NickandNeil

21 hours ago, FERRINO said:

A guy on the locostbuilders forum came up with a very inventive (and cheap) way of getting round the exhaust can edge issue for IVA. He chopped up an old stainless dog bowl and fitted it over the area. I bought it off him after IVA actually but have since lost it during a house move.

It was made to bolt on to the 2 holes on his motorbike can but you could make one that clamps on using a hose clamp or something:-

 

 

Cheers

Tony

Thats an interesting option, the dog has plenrty of spare bowls, thanks

On 7/24/2019 at 11:31 AM, richyb66 said:

2 other options.

Make a heatshield to go round the silencer and put the edge trim on that. 

Get some 6mm stainless steel bar. Bend it to a big ring and tack weld it to the ends of the silencer

I think I will have a look at some heat shields, I keep burning my leg when I get out the car, so it might kill two birds with one stone, Thanks for that.

Wanted a pair of chrome or stainless steep headlights to fit my Exmo.

Also the old fashioned chrome rimmed  temprature gauge and matching sender to match my cortina gauges.

Thanks for that Mr Toad, I will sleep a little better tonight

I think the way things are going I will have to put the IVA test off until next year.  Everytime I think I am nealy there more problems keep croping up.  Also it's getting dam expesive.  Just priced up the fuel tank filler cap that I apparantly need and now a new silencer.  I think I will post a complete photo of the car so members can advise me of anything elese be fore I apply for the IVA.  Thanks for the advice everyone.

Another couple of queries.

On the picture of the wiper, is thev plastic nut cover on the main bolt sufficient?

and the front edge of the silencer is slightly rounded, again is this sufficent?

3 hours ago, brumster said:

Couple of points to add :

- I too was picked up on foglight not being perfectly vertical; made 3D printed spacer to address. Rule did NOT apply to reversing light. Clearly stated for the fog light in required standard "Fitted so that the reflector is facing squarely to the rear". Do not confuse with "angles of visibility" which is a different thing entirely. Reverse light has no such stipulation and just states "must be positioned to face rear". However, I still spaced my reverse light the same as the fog light, just because it would look odd otherwise!

- On the exhaust hold at the side of the car, I put re-enforced rubber edge trim around it and passed with it as such. I guess my examiner wasn't so strict in that sense. Rather ridiculous treatment by your examiner really - a pedestrian sticks their fingers in the gap *around a hot exhaust manifold* and the concern is they may cut themselves? My god, what if they put their fingers within the wheel spokes and sliced the end of their finger off against the brake caliper I best fill in my wheels!

 

Thanks for the info, I may have got mixed up with fog and reversing lights.  I knew I had seen something on someones blog.  I havent got a 3d printer though so it will have to be a strip of rubber.

Anyone know of a mobile mechanic in Plymouth that is familier with webber carbs.  The thought of stipping mine down and retuning it fills me with dread?

21 hours ago, richyb66 said:

The weights don't need to be too precise, they're just what they use for doing the braking calcs and the actual car needs to be lower than these figures so use 450Kg for axle 1,  600 Kg for axle 2 and 1050Kg for the Gross weight and you'll be OK.

Gap between bonnet and car sides - not an IVA fail so I'd leave it and maybe add a strip of foam post IVA to keep some of the dirt and water out.

Hole where the exhaust comes through - using the size of the exhaust for scale, it looks like the front edge of the hole furthest from the exhaust might be contactable. Put edge trim on it with the join at the back edge behind the exhaust where it's less visible.

Hole in the suspension buttress and the one in front of it  - again contactable so use edge trim. This stuff has glue in it so sticks well and will bent to a tighter rad than the other stuff you used. Take spare edge trim to the test, you might need it and £15 worth of it could potentially avoid a retest.

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/10-x-8mm-satin-black-u-channel-edge-trim-per-metre

Agree with the above comments on the fog lamp.

Fuel filler cap might be a problem, it protrudes more that 5mm from the rear panel and looks to be less than 2,5mm radius. If it isn't more than 2.5mm rad you need to get it closer to the rear panel or add some sort of escutcheon around it to reduce the protrusion to less than 5mm. Also in this picture, inside the boot area also needs to comply with the 2.5mm rad rule so check it does or put a cover over the whole lot.

 

 

We have a carpeted boot area, it was just removed because i was wiring up a new number plate light.  Thanks for the advice on the fuel cap, this was a surprise, will go and measure it up.

15 hours ago, MrToad said:

With the carb if it's been unused for a while the whole unit will need to be overhauled and cleaned. You can buy service kits for very little money that include jets, gaskets etc. and will be best done as a bench process using suitable cleaning fluid (petrol ok). Once it's all nice and clean set the mixture screw(s) as the manufacturers starting setting, fit, then gradually screw in or out as required till smooth running. Do not be tempted to make large adjustments as if this is required something will be wrong with the carb or other things elsewhere, usually 1/2 a turn in either direction from the initial setting will be plenty.

Thanks as always Mr Toad, The engine is a ford pinto two litre, it is 1984 so it should nothave to adear to the moden emmision regs.  The exhaust smoked o little and i was not sure if this was down to ovefueling.  Aparently it will fail if it smokes so II took just the top half of the webber off and found the power valve diaphram valve had siezed so i replaced it.  I cleaned all the jets out on the top half of the carb, but now I will remove the whole carb and strip it down.

21 hours ago, MrToad said:

Hi

Not sure on weights but someone on here will know.

Any edges with a radius of less than 2.5mm need to be protected so protect round the exhaust, the front suspension is a bit of a grey area as they have an exclusion zone in this area but for the sake of it put rubber over edge - minimal cost and effort. The bonnet gap should not be a problem as the edges are radiused anyway and the IVA ball test should show no concerns.

I would be tempted to shim with rubber the reverse light as very little effort to ensure compliance.

Only rule with front fog lights is if you have them they must work correctly, if you have fitted some take them off for the IVA.

You must have rear fog light(s) which must only come on with dipped headlights so from the Sierra wiring you will have to put in some diodes to control, there is plenty of information on previous forums showing the procedure so just refer - this worked well on mine.

Belt and braces job with external projections - check everything and if in any doubt cover it! Any nuts/bolts - plastic covers, cycle mudguards - edge rubber,  track rod adjuster - cover, edges 2.5mm or less - cover, exhaust edges with radius less than 2.5mm - protect and remember they will be checking from rear/side/front so any edge applicable. For the sake of a few £ and a little time it's worth it.Fuel cap must be tethered.

Displaying a bit of thought and professionalism goes a long way in the IVA testers opinion.

will shim the reversing light, thanks.  Will have to look through previous forums for these diodes.  I was thinking of just taking a feed off the front dipped circuit, so will check out the diodes first

21 hours ago, richyb66 said:

Quick question, where are your side repeaters?

on the front wings

15 hours ago, MrToad said:

richyb66 is right the fuel cap will be an issue both at the front and rear of the filler, get a replacement cap that is IVA acceptable and put a collar around the filler pipe to cover up the underside.

My tester failed mine on the space around the exhaust pipe which was less than yours and required a radius on the edges, this had to be metal as the heat from the exhaust would compromise rubber and because he wanted to see it as a permanent solution. His explanation also was that a pedestrian could catch their fingers in the opening, extreme chance but within reason what he said I had to agree with.

Again the question of side repeaters is valid although the photo only shows part of the cycle front guard, favourite position now is on the outside of the guard as they have to be at the widest point close to the front (actual dimensions as rule).

any idea where you get metal edging from for around the exhaust hole?

Desperatly trying to get my barn find, (Exmo) ready for it's first IVA and would like advice please.

Where do I get the specs for the weights for an Exmo from.  I see some listed on other  forums but none for an Exmo.  Are they the same?

There is a gap between the bonnet and the sides of the car see pic 3, is this permissable?  Is there a seal or strip of rubber that should go there?

The internal sharp edge on the front susspension.  see pic 2 do they need rubber protection?

The round edge that is cut into the side pod for the exhaust.  See pic 1.  should that have rubber protection?

I have seen on someone elses forum that they failed on the rear reversing light lense was not being horizontal and that it needed shimming.  see pic 1.  shurely mine is vertical enough?

I have no front fog lights on the car only rear ones.  Is that OK?

Also the rear fog lights can be swithched on with the side lights.  (I am using the Sierra loom).  Again I have read on another forum that they should only work on dipped.  Is this the case when you only have rear lights?

Help please, trying to get my Robin Hood ready for the IVA and time is running out along with the summer.

Bought the car an Exmo as an unfinished car, the engine hunts on idle and it does not seem to make any difference when i turn the mixture screw.  Took off the top of the 32/36 Weber and replaced the power valve diaphram (which was siezed solid, now I can't tune it, any thoughts anyone.

also for the IVA where do I get the specificaton weights for the axal's etc?

Hi all just a quick question about the cycle wing edges, do they need extra rubber trim to pass IVA or are they usually not within the 10mm minimum? If so what rubber is everyone using?

Also am i reading the manual right when it says we must have an immobiliser fitted by a certified professional? OR can we just put in a kill switch ourselves? an has anyone been checked on either when the car was tested?

Thanks in advance 

Nick

Hi gents

We're on the hunt for an air filter for a WEBER 32/36 carb? We have found a few online but after all the work prep for IVA funds are getting low so we thought we would ask the group. 

Cheers

Nick

Another query, Is this acceptable for the IVA.  The subframe of the Ford Sierra in the picture is exposed just infrontof the rear wheel.  I think I can remember reading in One of our forums that they want them to be covered.  I have looked back through them and cannot find the origional thread.  Has anyonr any thought on the legality?yy

Thanks Brumster

Another query regarding the IVA.  The brake master cylinder is the dual type but the chamber that feeds them is single.  Is this Ok.

Thanks for the advice on the steering wheel.  Does anyone have an old rev counter?  The speedometer is 4" and come off a cortina (smiths) I think with a chrome bezel and a blck face,  It needs to be negative earth.

Cheers brumster, after looking into it they are asking more than £30 for just the cover! So we are gonna get the new wheel from Mr toad instead, we wanted a slightly bigger wheel anyway. 

Thanks for the advice on the shocks.  We have listened and decieded to keep the sierra main springs and fit a pair of capri shock's.  The advantage is that the shock's are now upright so should work better.  We had new upper brackets made for the upper mounts that could be bolted to the strong side bar.  (see Attached photo.)  This also gives us the option for coil overs in the future.

Thanks Mr Toad I will talk to Nick and let you know.

Brumster, when you say you got a rubber cover from Stoneliegh that does not mean anything to me.  Do you have an adress or website so I can see one?

thanks for the advices IanS, but we do not have the sierra wheel.

Mr Toad could you post a picture of the one you have for sale/  Does it have a centre horn push?

Has anyone any thoughts about the legability of the steering wheel in modern day IVA regs?  I have been told that the sharp edges will cause it to fail.

We have decieded to go for a four point racing type harness.  The fittings on the rear are attatched to a hidden stainless bar that goes the length of the rear of the car. (See pic)

The roll bar was also modified.  The front fitting was simply held on by one u bolt, and was little more that a decoration.  We had two feet fabricated and welded to the floor of the car.  It is now bolted through the floor.  With the rear of the roll bar fitted to the same strengthening bar that the seat belts are fitted to it is solid and hopefully will please the IVA.