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Posts posted by Burney
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On 11/4/2020 at 10:10 AM, geordie40 said:
I think you will find the Super Spec is bigger so the bonnet probably wont fit
Yes I can imagine it will be a different size. I might be a little ignorant but they just look like a rolled sheet with bent edges so hopefully not to complicated
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I've passed to a panel beater for a look to see if he can sort it
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Hi
Does anyone have a bonnet for an exmo? Mines had a fight with a ridge tile
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Thank you for you thoughts and suggestions. Had a good run this morning and much smoother. Exhaust backfiring occassionly but I think thats just cos I need a regulator in.
Got some different hoses to try so hopefully be getting some trouble free runs soon.
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Ok had a quick look tonight, astonished that the hoses from carbs to manifold were looser than the proverbial at the back of the tavern.
Tightened them up car fired first pull and balanced the carbs with a vaccum guage. Getting late so turned off for neighbours but to my annoyance hose clips slipping away again.
Prehaps the slippery fancy silicone hoses are useless for this job?
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Thanks folks.
I really should have started by stripping them down and giving them a good clean!
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Ordered a regulator
Yes I have distributer vaccum and brake vaccum T'd into inlet manifold.
Borrowed a vaccum guage so I can balance properly
I've read that the mixture on these carbs are factory set and the screws are covered with welch plugs. Does this mean I should just leave them be after balancing carbs properly?
I havent done anything with the timing as far as I'm aware. How would I check this?
I'll report back when I've fitted regulator and balanced carbs
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Thanks folks can you advise of supplier for regulator?
Got fired up again and my father in law a good mechanic advised two were running lean and two rich so imbalanced.
I think I know how to balance properly with a vaccum guage but how do you adjust mixture?
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Hi
Help needed
I bought a set of CBR600 bike carbs with manifold off ebay off a running pinto
Fitted them to mine with electric fuel pump and fired up idleing smooth.
Runs around town ok but putting foot down spluttery accelleration.
Assumed fuel pump no good refitted mechanical pump in line.
Fired engine up still spluterring on accelleration.
Twisted middle screw clockwise which inctrased revs and got rid of splutter.
Reduced idle with idle adjustment screw.
Left running a little engine stopped and now wont restart.
Q1. Have I unbalanced the carbs turning the middle screw?
Q2. Am i now getting too much fuel?
Q3. Is a regulator necessary?
Q4. What is the pipe on top of carbs? See photo. This was spitting out fuel so I bunged it up.
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11 hours ago, blue said:
That sounds like fuel enrichment/ pump jets not working causing lean mixture - if you can drive top gear flat out fuel pump is fine. If you stamp the gas and car splutters then runs its running lean momentarily
Thanks Blue I can't run flat out with steady throttle or quick stamp.
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I seem to be having fuel starvation issues with the electric pump I fitted. Idles lovely but sputtery pickup when you floor it road running. Am gonna refit the mechanical pump in series and see if this cures it.
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Thank you, checked out my fogs and they stay on regardless of main beam activation.
I think I renewed the whole loom for the rear lights as most of the lights weren't connected and were hanging loose in the rear arches
Not sure why I have wiper issues but am interested to know if you sort. There were some good diagrams on the forums hear which got me started
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20 hours ago, zhap135 said:
Hello Burney, I'm wiring one of these up too.
May I ask a couple of questions to pick your brains?
Where did you wire in the rear fogs - currently I have them off the dipped beams as per the ford wiring harness. This mean that they turn off when you switch from dipped to full. Do you find the same?
Horn - I can hear the relay click, but no sound. If I wire up direct the horn sounds as it should (but is not fused). Have you found this issue too?
Where have you put in the reversing lights? - I've used the same spur as the brake lights
Did you have fun and games with the hazards currently mine are working without the hazard feed from the ford column switch, except when the ignition is off. If I link the hazard feed to the brake spur everything works fine (it gets better - when I had tehm linked to the "correct" spur, adn the ignition was off, when you turned them on the engine would turn in time with the blinkers)
Currently the for column switch light feed is disconnected (lights work fine). If I connect to the "correct " spur, they don't work. What I'm worried about is that they're not fused currently
Lastly, have you wired the wipers yet?
Sorry, I know I've piled in with a load of questions, but if you have time It'd be great to pick your brains
Hi there
Thanks for your interest
I did wire the fogs into the dipped beams which formed the live connection for all my lights. My main beams are on a separate live and both dipped and main are oprated through a rotary switch on my dashboard. Good question about fogs not sure if mine go off with main beam will check although you would normally drive in fog with dipped beam anyway to prevent fog blinding?
I had problem with the horn too which is because my new horn had its own relay built in. In the end I just wired up the horn through one of the ancilliary spares to avoid the fuseboards built in relay.
I wired the breaklight to the breaklight circuit on the new board as it was prewired through the loom and worked well
I did have issue with the hazards and in the end I pulled all the ford wiring and relays out and wired to the new module. I stripped out the stalks from the ford colum and only retained the hazard switch. I wired up a separate indicator switch, horn switch and rotary wiper switch.
When I wired up the wiper I found I had slow wiper and washers work but I have no fast or park! I think this will probably be a problem with my wiper motor rather than the wiring but I'm living with that as I'm a fair weather driver.
I'm pleased with the results after a few test runs knowing that I can put the electrics to the back of my mind. Working on airlock issue now and bike carbs.
Let me know if you need anything else
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Hi I am adding bike carbs and am too upgrading my pump to electric. Do you need to do any thing to the existing mechanical pump to decomission it or just disconnect pipes?
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Thanks Alan yes I looked at those too
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Thank you Redtrev
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Hi folks
I am a tall chap with long legs and am wondering if any other like folk have made any adjustments to their pedal setup?
There seems to be plenty of room in the footwell to be able to bend the existing pedals or modify in some way.
Has anyone completed such an alteration?
In contrast I've a vertically challenged friend who tapes blocks of wood to his!
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Thank you I think you are right. It just doesnt match vehicle.
Can you advise on one that would? Or a supplier I could ask?
Thanks
Kris
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Hi sorry for late reply thanks for the great pic. Rev counter works at t0% output with the sender and live cables attached. If I hook up the earth lead it reads nothing at all???
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Yes sorry my existing one has issues at present or the setup is wrong
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I thought the negative terminal might have just been for a bulb
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Hi Martin I did connect the -ve terminal to the negative terminal on the battery and it didnt seem to work at all then.
The little corcuit diagram on the back doesnt make much sense to me though.
I'm going to try it again though cos that didnt seem to work so I disconnected off battery leaving the other wires connected (sender to coil and +ve supply). Shoved it in the dash and fired engine back up and then it came to life but only at about 50%
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Hi Ian it just has vf10cpc120001 as reference nothing to suggest 8 cylinder but that would explain the 50% under read.
I also just have 2 wires connected. A positive supply and the sender to the -ve side of the coil
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Erm not sure there is a coil and a silver plate then dizzy
Exhaust and manifold
in Kit car related
Posted
Have you still got this manifold please?