Kevxathome@gmail.com

Haha kit cars are becoming fun albeit id prefer more tarmac fun! ....thanks for replying. Turning over with everything loose theres no noise however i cant find any gears. As i adjust the ratchet (tooth by tooth) till i find Its going into gear it starts to give a light high pitched continuous squeal , when i depress the clutch its a slightly deeper noise. Yes the plate actually says "this way faces engine" or something along those lines. Then you just tighten up the cover completely?

Haha kit cars are becoming fun albeit id prefer more tarmac fun! ....thanks for replying. Turning over with everything loose theres no noise however i cant find any gears. As i adjust the ratchet (tooth by tooth) till i find Its going into gear it starts to give a light high pitched continuous squeal , when i depress the clutch its a slightly deeper noise. Yes the plate actually says "this way faces engine" or something along those lines. Then you just tighten up the cover completely?

Is it correct to continue a different topic on this thread? Took the car out for its 1st drive yesterday after solving the knocking. I now have a squeeky clutch! To my knowledge ive literally took the engine out then put it all back as it was. Wanted to ask once the clutch is out, aligned and re mounted can this go in the wrong way? I just turned it till the mounting studs aligned up then tightened them all up. Could this be engine out again? Cheers.

Ok so i guess the point and benefits of this club is good honest experience! Engine came out and stripped down with only block and when i removed the clutch plate noticed the flywheel very loose....it was like a flashback. I was so interested in getting the clutch centering tool set up and in place i forgot to crank up the bolts on the flywheel properly....to be clear they were all loose! Hands up my fault. This is why im no engineer. But its rebuilt and back in the car started 1st crank, yip no knocking. Builder explained thats why he couldn't quite pinpoint the noise. Again thanks for the useful inputs from all. I hope this might help any other novices...haha. crank up the flywheel once youve sussed out the alignment tool.

Thanks for that Bob, something else to look out for and ill definetely be getting the oil light sorted. Engine builder just heard it and said it would be best just to bring him the engine back again. He did listen and it sound closer to cylinder no 4. So one of a couple of possiblities. Its on the crane now and ill take it too him this week. Again im very glad of this site....loads of interesting knowledgeable people. Ill ill update any progress.

Yes...so interestingly the things your talking about contaminated coolant and filings in oil....low compression and generally poor performance are all things that forced my hand to sending engine away last year. Compression results were from front to back 145,130,85 and 45. The water pump and alternator are all sound and new. But makes total sense so great to learn on here. The oil pressure guage on my dash isnt working proper. It always goes to max... and no oil lights either. (another job)... However the engine builder is coming to my house in the morning...he mentioned how vital timing is on older pinto engines so im interested to hear his opinion. Thanks again for the info.

Haha...yea i was fearing that...however due to issues with the ignition thankfully theres only been 20 miles between them building the engine me fitting it and them MOTing it...its kinda in there best interest tbh. am i right in saying by trying the engine without the fan belt, that will help distinguish whether its top end knocking or bottom?

So ive taken the fan belt off and its still knocking. Showed to the builder. Hevwill try come out to the house and hear it....frustrating.

I stripped the engine and sent it to west coast motor wurks rebuilt it. New oil pump water pump was fitted. Using X-Flow type MOT 20W-50 oil.

Now that i hear the video the knocking does sound quite mechanical.

Ive tried uploading videos. It doesn't seem timed or regular. Sounds like something loose but im not familiar with other mechanical sounds so cant compare. 20210808_172213.mp4

20210808_172213.mp4 20210808_172213.mp4

20210808_172213.mp4 20210808_172047.mp4

Hmm...i was hoping for something less serious. Appreciate the replies. Im doing the sons birthday thing just now. Ill get a video of the engine running with the knocking sounds hopefully audible tomorrow.

Hi all. Got my engine back and installed in March this year. Had some ignition teething issues ive now sorted. Mot passed and first few Miles its been perfect. Now for 5 mins im hearing a dull knocking sound somewhere in the engine. Cant pinpoint it ive went round all nuts n bolts i can looking for something loose. The noise fades once warmed up whilst idling but i can hear it when im out driving. Im reluctant to drive it more in fear of doing serious damage. Is there a common (bedding in) period for a rebuilt engine thats common? Im limited in my knowledge therefor reluctant to start breaking open the engine and new seals. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin.

Hello all. After a year of engine refurbishment finally got through mot last month. Im down to last teething probs. Its a luminition ignition 22121 under the box. The sensor switch wiring is faulty as tapping them as they go into distributer causes the engine to cut out. Theres also been a few shoddy repairs done i can see. I have cut out and soldered/wrapped my repairs but think its the latter parts of wiring at sensor thats the cause. Not wanting to replace the entire lot I see online prices are varying from £45 2nd hand to £130. Do all the sensors vary or is it a standard component. They all look v similar to my one. Any help or info is greatly appreciated. Kevin.

Good morning. I have a robin hood s7. Would the roof fit this you think? Many thanks. Kevin 07754110974

Sump popped off. Stanley blade 1/3 of the way round...couple of leaver softly applying pressure as i went and heard it go. Thank goodness.

Nightmare. Its a cork gasget looking at it but i think its been bonded with some kind off adhesive! All bolts were pretty easy too come out i expected the sump to drop off haha. Im cutting away with a stanley blade. Prob going to take a week cpl hours a night! Cheers Nelmo.

Oh its been a long few weeks. Car is sorn and officially off the road for winter. With so many variables i decided to strip the engine down, inlet and exhaust manifolds off cylinder head off i got a compression test and got front to back 175, 150, 45 and 25 psi. and ive got visual damage on a piston and im sure rings will be done in too. I am however stuck. The sump bolts are all out but im struggling to get it off. Its a cork gasket but the whole thing is locked on. Any pointers?? Am i missing something? Thanks in advance.

Cheers for the link Peter. Ill get onnit when kids are down!

Ive removed the red part...doesnt look like a pcv.

Another issue i have is batteries going completely flat after 2 or 3 half hour journeys. Firstly replaced the battery and its doing the same. Alternator was sent away and is working fine. Ive tested the alternator at the plug or output and its only reading 12.5 v. Plus the battery only reads the same. Its my understanding it should be up at 14.5 v when running. Is this a case of getting a more powerful Alternator. My one says 12v 55A. Again thanks for reading.

Its all good info and im glad i joined thanks for all the comments. I think its going to be trial and error for a while.

The top outlet was plumbed into a catch can and the bottom was just left open and was splattering. Im assuming this is the pcv valve? As you can see its the bottom one i took to a 2nd catch can. What would be the basic ford setup?