Chris Scott

When I went to order wheel cylinders they were all wrong, apart from ones that fitted the 1.6 - also wondered what was different about the 1.6

So I’ve had a bit of a nightmare - ordered a set of diff seals, popped them on the shelf - months later go to fit them and they are wrong! Is there any easy way to ascertain what Sierra diff I have? Is it a 6.5, 7 or 7.5? What does that measurement actually refer to? Or is it easier to just take the seals to a bearing/seal company and get them to identify/supply them? Thanks

Yes, the crack is a concern but looking at the corrosion it’s is both superficial and old…hoping once bolt is out this is still the case There is certainly a spacer, but not sure why as the gearbox is as far back as it can go so assume it must be the prop that’s modified.

Thanks - subframe is now out thank god! Issue I have is both trailing arms have a bolt seized in the bush and the diff has one bolt seized solid too! I think I’m defeated, will give it to my dad to see if heat will help it free off

Interior was thrown in the skip about 6 months ago attack is the word though - Sunday it’s man vs car!

Thanks, luckily that part of it is all sorted. I'm currently stuck removing the sub frame through the monocoque! Where the nut, bolt and bracket is seized I can't get it through the hole but also can't get a grinder in there! What fun :)

Thanks Ian, this is very helpful. So far I’ve managed to take the big bolts out that go through the bush, a slightly smaller bolt that is next to it that goes through the subframe and yet it’s still not moving Tonight I need to grind some bolts away and see whats holding it still

Like all best laid plans things always change in the world of kit cars… Whilst trying to remove the diff it became apparent that everything was seized and corroded solid! As a result I’ve decided that there is no point doing things by halves…the subframe and diff are coming out together for a full refresh. Currently it’s all unbolted…however it’s still not coming away from chassis so tomorrow’s plans are now sorted

Thanks both, the aim is to get arms off this week to see what’s needed and what can be salvaged - that will govern what’s needed

Oddly I’ve actually put the bike carbs back on this week! I want a known quantity for when I redo the electrics. It was running on bike carbs when I bought it However, long term webers is the goal, I have a number of friends that race engines with Webers so getting them set up should be a doddle.

Evening all, has anyone got any sources for replacement rear trailing arm bushes for a Sierra? I can obviously find the power flex ones and the metal cosworth ones…but does anyone know if the standard rubber replacement ones can be sourced? My excellent local factors have drawn a blank Thanks

This week’s focus has been on starting to investigate the rear end - having never even removed the rear wheels until now. After removing the fuel tank (and 20 years of attached grime) I started my investigation. I was aware of a diff leak, but also found the need for a pair of new wheel cylinders, new CV boots, new brake hoses and a rear wheel bearing. Nothing major, but more money and time The parts have been ordered, just need the time over the next few weeks to get it all done.

Brilliant advice, thanks - I’m popping to local factors tomorrow to see what options are available

Also - big thanks - advice worked! Now need CV boots and wheel bearings …one job always leads to 5 more

Unbelievably helpful, thank you so much! Will try and use work printer tomorrow to make a hard copy.

Many thanks, knowing my luck it’ll be seized in but I’ll be ready in case!

Awesome - that could save a lot of headaches! Thank you Could be a job for tomorrow

Afternoon Everyone, I feel like I’ve had a good day on the car today, fuel tank out, roll bar is off and most of old loom discarded, however… The Sierra diff on my 3A is leaking, from both the nose and one drive shaft. The question I have is how do I remove it? I can see the bolts that’s hold the diff in, but how do I remove the drive shafts? Is it a case of undoing the hub nut and sliding it out? Bearing in mind nothing seems to have been touched for 10 years am I about to enter a world of pain? Cheers Chris

hoping to try to have it started by Xmas!

Cooling system now plummed in

Absolutely brilliant info, love the brochure. Thanks

Sorry if this is a really bizarre question. I have a 3a (stainless monocoque), however I’ve seen (and met) a few people that refer to it as a 111a (triple 1 a). Any idea why this is? Are they the same model, am I just confused

Hi Neil, I too have a stainless chassis…no you don’t need to paint it - you can either have it polished or brushed to change up the finish but it won’t corrode

No, fully adjusted there is still loads (70mm) slack. I can only assume it had a different Ford cable in when I got it! Just need to work out which one