LewisH

ZT sounds like the best bang for buck option, so any more info would be very helpful as this will most likely be my project for next winter

Part of my IVA fail was the "sharp" edge on my fuel filler cap. Does anyone know where I can source one with a radius edge that will fit? It is the one supplied from Robin Hood and the hole size from the filler neck looks to be around 35mm. Failing that, does anyone have an idea as to how I could fit a piece of trim around the edge? Reluctant to file off the edge but that may be my last resort.

I am planning to swap out the 1800 pinto that is in my Exmo at some point next winter and was wondering what people thought would be the best replacement? I have a 2.8 ford cologne v6 that is in bits in the garage but needs restoring, having looked into costs, I think it would be around £3k to get it restored to how I would like (re-bore to 3ltr). Given that it would probably still be under 200bhp, albeit sounding very nice, I am wondering what other options I could go for on this budget?

Cool, thanks for that mate. Got the in-laws down for a couple of days so I'll try this at the weekend and let you know.

I seem to remember doing this by counting out number of turns on the track rods from a Robin Hood video. Both front wheels are visibly pointing in so could well be far too much toe in. I am going to set up some sort of string alignment tool and try to get a parrallel base setting. Pics below of what I mean. Fingers crossed this sorts it!!

Thanks for the info. I'll have a play around with tie-bar setup and see what difference it makes. Difficult for me to test this though considering it isn't road legal. Might have to be a quick run around the block and hope I don't meet the rozzers. The front suspension is fouling on both front and back of the n shaped outrigger, so I am going to have to "manipulate" and create more room. I'll focus on bending the front out so that I have more room to push the strut bottom forward.

I know what I need to do for all the points, apart from the steering self centering. Having looked on the forum for the phrase, it seems that it is a common issue, but not clear as to how it is overcome on the Exmo. I don't see that I can increase the camber without fairly major chassis alterations to the top strut mounts. I already have toe in, a bit too much if anything. Not really sure what I can do here, does anyone have any other suggestions or experiences with this on the Exmo? I also have a tie bar setup rather than ARB, but I'm not confident that this has been optimised for the setup.

So the IVA was a fail unfortunately, but I knew it would as I didn't quite manage to get everything done in time. Tried to move the date on the Monday (test was booked for the Thursday) but the lady told me that I would have to pay the whole fee again. So, Thursday it was. All in all I was quite impressed by the two guys that did the test, a good laugh and it was obvious that they actually wanted to help me rather than hinder. I even ran out of fuel at one point (didn't realise that you were supposed to have a full tank fir the test), after putting a can of fuel in, the examiner then had to suck it through as the line wasn't primed. Pretty sure he didn't have to do that. So the main points of fail, apart from a few sharp edges were; - steering not self centering. - brake pedal box assembly flexing. - rear brakes locking before fronts. - nose cone indicators not extending far enough out from nose cone. - rear fog lamp not marked with E, B or F. - front suspension springs fouling against chassis turret. - wheel guards not covering full width of wheel.

Sorry, I had intended to write up the IVA details when I got home but I was so knackered, had a beer and conked out! The silencer is from a company called Blue Flame Exhausts. It sounds great, has a rolled end and no sharp edges. Good company to deal with, would recommend.

Ready for IVA...or so i thought!

Some quickly knocked up infill brackets for the nose cone.

I also replaced the exhaust as the old RH silencer had sharp edges and was v loud.

So after trying to fit the rear wings back I found that no matter how I tried, I couldn't get them to sit flush and so decided to bite the bullet and trim them back as they should be, as per the video from sparepart. Pics below of how they turned out, I bought some 1mm carbon fibre sheet and also used that to cover the old holes on the side.

Thanks Nelmo, feeling a little less stressed already.

Afternoon all, Does anyone have any experience of Yeading IVA centre? I had an auto electrician round last week to look at a problem with the headlights, which he sorted within minutes annoyingly, but thankfully. During his visit I mentioned that I had a test booked at Yeading and he told me that is the worse place that I could go. Apparently that is where all of the tester trainers are based and so they are VERY pernickety. The reason I am worried is because I have an EXMO and I have heard that some testers do not like the chassis construction and therefore refuse to pass them. Do you think it is worth changing location? Is there any evidence that I can use to argue chassis construction?

Many thanks

Hi all, can someone tell me where this hose is supposed to connect to?

How do I determine which switches I have? Also, none of the wire colours seem to match any vicky green loom diagram that I have seen. Very confused

Not yet, I'll try this later. I'm pretty sure some of the connections are not in the right place as indicators/full beam flash don't work. I'm trying to find a diagram that shows my particular wiring but not getting anywhere. I have noted down all of the wires and connections, does anyone have a diagram for this type of loom/switch setup? Wiper/Lighting - Grey: 58 - Red: 30 - Black: 56 Haz/Ind/Beam - White: 49L - White/Orange: 49a - Violet (or grey)/red: 54 - White/red: 54R - Red: H30 - Red: 49 - 12v feed: 15 - Blue/red: 56a - Blue/white: 56D - Black: 56

Hi all, When I put the full beam on, only one side comes on (near side), and then a second later then other side comes on. Then when you take it off full beam, it takes out the dipped lights, being left with just the sidelights. Then if I turn off lights, I can put them back on with dipped. Any ideas? I've tried changing the relays.

Cheers guys

I can access the filler cap easily enough with the nose cone fitted, but it looks to be very close to the highest water point. I've attached a picture, what do you think?

I am very close to plumbing in the rad and filling with coolant ready for engine starting, but I am unsure whether I should take this opportunity to install a header tank. Do you think I need one? My rad has been mounted at an angle in front of the chassis, pic below. I don't have a heater and don't plan on fitting one. Has anyone had issues with engine cooling with the exmo?

Thank you so much for going to the effort of uploading this, very interesting. Wishing I'd seen the video before embarking on the build, oh well, next time! I'm thinking that I will put the wings back on the way I fitted previously, without cutting, get the thing through the IVA and then consider aesthetic issues such as wing trimming afterwards. I paid for the test today and now have a booking at the end of April. Full steam ahead!

Thanks, crapping myself about doing this. Can you remember what the fiberglass was like to cut? Did it splinter or crack much? Not sure whether to use hacksaw or an angle grinder. My fear is if the hacksaw blade snags it is going to potentially chip off chunks of paint. I've modified the picture showing what I think I need to cut-off from looking at yours, what do you think?