Richard Grove

As far as I know as you already have an E reg plate, you can change the engine to anything you fancy and the emmissions test for E reg vehicles will still apply i.e. no Catalytic converter issues to worry about if you fit a modern engine.

I had a bulk standard 1600 Pinto, which I swapped for a bulk standard 2000 Pinto with 4-1 manifold and Kent FR 30 Cam and 32/36 webber carb. The increase in performance was amazing without costing a lot of dosh.

Richard

OK, now I am stuck again.

New alternator and battery fitted. When the engine is running I only get 12.6v accross the battery terminals i.e its not cahrging.

I have done a continuity check as follows :

Ignition switch on. Unplug the connector from the alternator and check for voltage between the 3 pins on the connector and a good earth.

The middle pin gives 12.6 volts, the other red wire gives 1.6 volts and the small pin (blue wire) reads 0.

I think the 0 on the blue wire means the warning light on the instrument panel has blown.

Should the 2 red wires both read 12 volts?

Any ideas where the problem might be ?

Thanks

Richard

New Toys in hand and diagnosis under way.

1. The battery is duff. 3 cells well below the required specific gravity. This is the second battery in 12 months so it lkooks like the alternator.

2. The volage reading is 18+ with the engine at idle and remains the same with all the lights & fans switched on. Looks like I have boiled 2 batteries because the vaultage regulator is not working.

I have a spare alternator in the shed so I will pop it on and see what happens.

Richard

We have that type of handbrake in our 1990 Isuzu Trooper.

It has so much rust there must be plenty of them at the scap yard.

Richard

Thanks for all the input.

Trip to Halfords tomorrow for some new toys (Hydometer etc.).

Richard

My battery keeps going flat. How do I check if its the Alternator not charging as opposed to a duff battery?

Thanks

Richard

A friend of mine recently had problems with a spongey brake pedal. He used several litres of brake fluid trying to bleed the air out. It turned out to be a faulty flexible hose. The hose was blooning out under pressue.

Richard

The SVA manual says "A system using warm air to clear the screen must employ fan assistance"

It says nothing about cold air.

I fitted a heater from a Fiesta. Needed cutting about a bit but does the job.

Richard

Westfield sell rubber SVA covers that can be slipped over the standard RHE catches you get with the kit. Cost just 50P each plus postage.

Richard

Jim,

I used the Sierra door rubber on the edge of the bonnet, but I see no reason why the ordinary black edging trim would cause a problem. Same black edge trim can be used on the rear edge of the windscreen pillars. If in any doubt about a sharp/blunt edges cover it with trim for the SVA.

I tried to avoid using sealent to cover things up for the SVA as it takes ages to get off.

Richard

Richard,

I made the conversion your planning (from twin pipe to RHE 4-1 manifold) last year. I made the hole in the side panel slightly larger thus making it easier to fit and remove the new RHE 4-1 manifold with out having to remove the engine.

Problem I think you will have is that your steering shaft will have to be moved. I had to remove the entire steering shaft/column assembly as well as the pedal box and refit everything as far over the the side as the car as possible in order to clear the new manifold. It is a very tight fit.

Also the quality of the 4-1 manifold is not brilliant - I have black sooty deposits around the welds where it goes 4 into 1 i.e. its got holes in it and needs some more welding to seal.

Having said that it is worth making the change - looks better and improves performance.

Good luck

Richard

I found a 10" Mountney wheel at Stafford and fitted it this morning. It does provide a little more leg room (just enough) and there is virtually no noticeable difference in the handling compared to the 11" wheel.

I think that I will also end up moving the steering column a little before I'm really happy with the driving position.

Richard

I put the stereo itself bang in the middle of the dash under the speedo etc. (original Sierra unit) so that I could reach the controls with 4 point harness on.

I took the stereo out for the SVA as I think it would have failed sharp edges/projection test and made up a soft pad to cover the hole.

Richard

Ant,

With my original 1.6 engine (un-modified sump) I managed just over 2" of ground clearance at the sump. I managed almost 6 weeks of driving before the sump sprang a leak. With a nicely shortened sump fitted I have approx 5" of clearance and no problems with speed bumps.

I found that I had to adjust the ride height once the car had been driven a couple of hundred miles as everything settled down particularly at the back. Make sure you leave as much adjustment as you can at the back.

Richard

Paul,

I have just 2 speakers in my 2B, one behind each headrest in the seat back panel. If I turn the stereo up a wee bit I can still make out the lyrics at 50 mph, but anything over that and its all wind.

Richard

Paul,

We are using a 1.4 GTA donor (pretty nippy in its own right) so with most of the metal work cut off it should be quite a lot ligher. I expect the performance to be pretty good but not as good as my 2B with 2L pinto.

One of my Dad's raeson's for choosing the Bat was that it was a 2+2, however now that the body work is largely in place, it is clear that there is no room in the back for a seat let alone any head/leg room. My 9 and 11 year old kids wont fit!!!!

The build is not that difficult once you figure out what your trying to do (the 2 hour instruction video makes the RHE videos look like Oscar winners), but would be very difficult to do on your own. We have lifted the rear body work on and off at least 50 times.

Richard

How about a For sale / Wanted section ?

Richard

Hi,

My dad donated many hours helping me complete my 2B last year. Now its my turn to repay the debt by helping him to finish his project, a Banham Bat. He wanted something different that no one else had got!!!

We are well into the build, and hope to have it finished for this summer. It is a totally different project compared to a Robin Hood, but has been great fun (especially if you enjoy going wild with the angle grinder) but the doors and windows are a pig to do.

Any other Hoodies tried a Banham conversion?

What do you think of the Bat Concept car?

Dave,

I found the fly wheel and it looks in good order.

Hope you don't mind but I don't fancy lugging it around the show as I will have both kids with me.

Send me an e-mail and I will give you my contact details etc. and you can give me call.

Richard

rich.grove@virgin.net

Dave,

I live near Broadway, approx 20 minutes from junction 9 off the M5. If this is too far out of your way I will try to dig it out of the shed & take it with me on Saturday.

Richard

I am pretty sure that there is no difference in Flywheel from 1.6, 1.8 or 2.0. The earlier (pre 85) fly wheels were lighter .

I have a Fly Wheel you can have, it came of a 1987 1.6. I will be at Stafford on Saturday if you want it.

Richard

Thanks fri the replies.

I was hoping not to have to go to the bother of messing with the steering column position as it took an age to get the clearance bwtween the steering shaft and 4-1 manifold sorted. I wil try this as a last resort.

I have seats from a TR 7 that are already pretty low.

The quick and relatively cheap solution to getting a little more leg room would be a 10" steering wheel. I was really looking for input on how this would affect the handling of the car. Would it make the steering heavy / twitchy?

Richard

I am thinking about changing the steering wheel in my 2B from the Mountney 11" wheel that came with the kit to a 10" wheel.

With the 11" wheel I find that I keep knocking my hand on my leg when turning.

Has anyone tried a 10" steering wheel, what difference does it make ?

Richard