itllbedonesoon

Afternoon all, got a 2b+ (i am still in the build phase, almost finished) with the zimerides onto the sierra sub frame. I have everything in there, fuel tank, boot spare wheel and stood on the spare wheel and i still have about 8 or 9 inches (calm down ladies) of wing clearance over the tyre. When i am sat in it it feels like i am facing down hill. Even with compressing the zimmeride springs i will never lower the vehicle enough to not look like an off roader. Lately, and i am just thinking out loud here, that due to the possible slight variations in robin hood parts manufacture. The thought has crossed my mind to cut down the upper suspension mounts (the underside of the roll bar). I cant afford to buy a new set of sus units, so does anyone have an ideas before i potentially make a drastic angle grinding adjustment mistake to the chassis?

Well i followed the wires back from the VG alternator plug and: Bn Yellow = dash light smll Bn = this just follows the heavy Bn and goes to the Starter motor terminal. So i have disconnected the smll Bn and re-routed it to the auto choke. Although i did not have time to turn the engine on to see if it still works. I have no idea how the charging circuit is suppose to work but this now look as though i have 1/ a heavy feed from Alternator to Battery +ve via starter motor. 2/ wire to dash display 3/ Wire to carb auto choke Is there not suppose to be a -ve connection somewhere in there to make the alternator circuit work?

good afternoon, ok, Got a ford DOHC alternator onto a pinto with carbs using the VG wiring. I did a quick forum search and now know which DOHC alternator pin does what however: The VG alternator wiring had a 3 pin plug that was not compatable so i leaped in with both feet, gave it the chop and in the bin it went. Now i cant remember which way round the VG wires went??? Info i have is Alternator (viewed from above): Large left pin - charging circuit Middle pin - Dash light Right pin - Auto choke I have got VG wiring: Large bn (i assume) to DOHC Large terminal (left from above) Small Bn: Bn Yl: Any guesses on the 2 blanks???? also the auto choke wire would be handy to connect to my carb, but there does not seem to be one allocated in the VG wiring and which ever VG wire it is off the alternator just dissapears into the loom, any clue where it goes, where i can pick it up?

thank you, well i guess i will check TDC and the timing then. So what does the stepper motor actually do? i am sure Ford wouldnt stick in on there for the fun of it?

Good afternoon, Some said a name like 'itlbedonesoon' would haunt me. Well spot on, i am loosing sleep over this thing now. I feel so close as i am trying to start her, she pops and sparks out of the exhaust but she just wont kick in to life. Here it is... I am (trying) to run a 2.0 pinto Carb, have a points dizzy straight thru from the coil no engine managment in there at all. The carb (webber 2V) has autochoke and a stepper motor connections. I have looked at a few posts and think i have to wire in the autochoke to the 6V live from the alternator (please shout if this is wrong??). Where do i wire the stepper motor into, or will (should) the car run with the stepper motor disconnected? (if so this is one less thing to worry about why she wont start) please help? 'itwontbedonesoon'

I believe it also has a layered metal head gasket which can take higher pressures and you can buy bolt on turbo kits from USA. which will give you an extra 95HP without any internals modifications. Although that is only what it says on the sales package and so i am sure they are suspect to reality.

Success!!! well almost. I had to swap the VG connections round a bit and have now got the constant on 15, at 1 yellow does nothing. At 2 all are live, the starter kicks in at 3. yeh!!!! (i am not to worried about the yellow, ill worry about that post SVA and if i think about putting a radio in) The engine didn't start though, bit it is making nosies. once more into the breach and all that!! Cheers all

happy birthday by the way!

Morning (or evening in Oz) thanks for spending the time to go through all this Nigel. I did have the dizzy to coil -ve & VG Bk/White. Then coil +ve to VG white. I have got battery to Block/bellhousing, Battery to Chassis, Bellhousing to Chassis & Block to Chassis. Looking at the ignition switch, it was ok when i drove the Sierra home, but that was a long time ago now. I have: VG R/W to Ford Bk/Bl to ignition terminal 50 VG Br to Ford Red to terminal 30 VG White to Ford Bk/Y to 15 VG not used to Ford Yellow (was soldered over the terminal number) Ford not used Terminal 'P' I will check for constant power terminal etc and see how that goes. The carrot of hope is still within reach... Tune in next time, same place, same time for the the next installment of ' how to wire a car from the other side of the world!' Cheers

Cheers again, Doing this from memory at work, last night is a blur of wires and frustration. I will have to check which way i have the dizzy and the VG white & white/Bk connected. I have most things connected up, fuel sender, dash console, oil pressure, temp sensors everything except the lights and I have the later version instruments that require the relays (to which the VG supplied relays did not mach the numbers listed on the VG loom sheet, I guessed they have the same physical lay out as 1 pin on the relay is horizontal and 3 vertical). The light wires are left disconnected with the wired ends insulated so nothing crosses. But even as i turn the key 1 click for the elecrtics nada happens, no sound of the fuel pump priming, no dash response nothing. Turn the key to engage the stater and again, silence. I will double check how i have the dizzy and those you have listed wired up. (i am going to print off the whole conversation chain this time). I was getting no readings from the multimeter from the white connection to the ignition switch with the key in any position. Must avoid a fire at all costs or i will end up commiting Hari Kari. thanks again for your input.

Ok, so the dizzy and the wiring are in, turn the ignition and nothing happens I have tested the starter as per Haynes instructions and direct battery feeds, that is all ok. I have got the multimeter out and my earth circuit seems ok through the chassis and when i turn the ignition on the earth comes alive at the starter solenoid but nothing happens., I think my problem is in the +ve side of the circuit and may come back to the dizzy wiring?? I have the dizzy Bk wire to the Coil +ve and the VG white spliced in, the coil -ve to the VG Bk/W. The only +ve feed i have is from the battery to the starter solenoid, Am i missing a +ve feed into the VG loom (i thought this was the VG white/Red from the solenoid spade terminal to ignition) or am i suppose to have a +ve feed direct battery to coil (and therefor through the VG white to the ignition)? or am i getting myself totally confused? sorry if this is a bit long but i have tried to give as much info as i can. if this makes sense to anyone please help?

Bonza!!!! ok, welding gauntlets on, painting mask on and a pair of ski goggles and hopefully i will try to turn the engine on this weekend

cheers everyone, There is a brown wire inside the dizy that looks like it connects to the dizzy casing (potentially earthing thru the block??) Sounds as tho it is a nice and simple circuit (but to counteract that i am a bit simple too). I have already wired in the dash instruments onto the multiplin plug from my sierra and the ignition into the VG loom as per VG instruction sheet. So if i connect the VG loom black & blk/White wires to the coil terminals and run a wire direct from coil -ve to the dizzy will VG take care of the revs & ignition and is bob still my uncle?

not sure where that leaves me now? Where does the 1 black wire from the dizzy connect to if not to the amp? What do i do with the 2 dizzy wires out of the amp?

another pic

I am starting to feel like a dependant now with the amount of questions i have posted lately. I have the simple ingnition circuit (6 wires) from the motorcraft amplifier onto a 2.0l pinto and according to the haynes manual, 2 wires go to the dizzy however.... the dizzy i have only has a connection for 1 wire. From the dizzy there is one black wire with a connector and a green wire that goes to a capacitor type thing on the side of the dizzy (with no connector on it). Beyond these the are no obvious connction points/terminals. This is the dizzy i have, Any ideas what to do with the other dizzy wire from the amplifier? you will also have to speak slowly, as to me dizzy is what happens when you spin around and fall over.

avo, I bought a starter in the end, part ex for £50 inc so saved a tenner or so, (i squeak when i walk too). Did the plug fabrication thing with some valve lube from work. Total disaster! i left it for a little over 48 hrs and when i whipped it out the end fell off! it had not set propperly. I guess inside the mould the air couldn't get to it and it took longer to go off???? So i am onto the mark 2, it has been in there for 4 days now and tonight i am going to whip the end out and see if i get lucky. fingers crossed.

Wow Longboader, you should have your 'tricks of the trade' show on TV!!! I think i will have a go at that connector fabrication, i have the amplifier off my DOHC sierra to practise on and then i will have a go on the one i need. I did send an e-mail to VEO on wednesday with an enquirey, but i will send another e-mail inc the information listed points 1,2 & 3 for the starter motor. cheers all!! i'll let you know how the plug thing goes.

cheers Bill, That place is about 30mins drive from me so i will head over there on Friday for a starter motor and to see what they say about the amplifier. On their web site it shows only the amplifier but no connectors, and i already have an amplifier but it is the connertor i require. When you got an amplifier from them did it come with the connection plug and any of the wiring or was it just the ignition amplifier? thanks Bill, one step closer to starting the engine

Hello, I have a 2.0ltr pinto (carb) onto an MT75 gearbox but no starter motor & no ignition circuit. I have a DOHC starter but i think it is too short to engage the flywheel and I have been looking in the 4 local breakers for pinto's for months and have not found a thing. (i have found the 'motocraft amplifier' but without the connection plug or the rest of the ignition wiring, so it is kind of useless) Are there any alternatives i can use, can i take any of the ignition circuit off a CVH or a starter of a ZETEC or anything? (wishful thinking) I have tried posting a 'wanted' request to ask for these items but it says 'i do not have permission'??? any ideas??

Thames Valley Visit - I am still persevering at the moment, but that sounds like that may well be on the cards soon as i am about to start the electrics and i know even less about electrics than i do about cars. I am sure i could find a few cups of tea and some fancy biscuits. Be warned though, the car is in a tent with holes in it, so it is cold, wet and muddy! thanks again, and i will no doubt be in touch john in the near future, cheers

I am one of those pesemistic people who believe 'if it can go wrong, it will go wrong' and this car has re-affirmed that. I am still building and have had problems at just about every stage of the build so far. I have given up guessing at a completion date. As you can tell i have a lot of pent up frustration and anger. However..... Every problem I have encountered has been resolved by consulting this web site. The few posts I have entered have been answered and resulted in a successful step forward. My latest regarded a non-engaging starter motor, turns out i have a DOHC starter and i need a pinto stater. simple really, again information found from the search function of this web site. So to all the people in the RHOCAR community i just thought i would take the time to say...Thank you, good luck with your builds and happy motoring.

thank you, thank you, i like the idea of an access panel, I think i will rivet most of it and rivnut the drivers side panel which will give me access to the lines, and prop shaft. although what abouth the Trim over the top of the access panels? The video suggests gluing the carpet in place, i supose velcro at the access points is the way forward?

how are you fixing your inner panels? i have all my pannels scwrewed into place and i am looking at permenant fixing now. The floor & sides, back panel i intend to rivet in to place, permenant like and all that, but what about the internal panels? what if i need access to the fuel/brake lines, prop shaft, gearbox? What have people done about this??? any advice please?

i also have 2 large triangle pieces, on the panel list they are ' bulkhead side panels'. sorry for being dense but where do these go?