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Posts posted by RedTrev
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Sorry, Bloke ... are you the seller?
eBay seller name 'Bakesj1'...... Bloke's real name 'Steve Baker'.... stands a good chance...
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Try these people. they are in Redditch and have a handful of distributors.They make all sorts of automotive hardware products including stainless lift-off hinges.
Trev
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Tim,
I've seen welders where the wire feed motor control circuit has gone kaput. It's normally the motor's speed control transistor or the (smaller) transistor that drives the base of this transistor, if you know what I mean
However, if, as you say , the arc has gone as well, it could be the hefty rectifiers (bolted to a heatsink) that may need attention. Have a look at the circuit board and use your senses... the nose is good at detecting a burnt out component if it's not obvious by sight!!
Good luck, and be careful if you're having a look inside when it's plugged in!
Trev
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Dan,
Are you in this week?
I'll pop round with some test gear and my circuits if it suits you.
Trev
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well i must have put in a dodgy fuse,
More likely a dodgy connection between the fuse blade and the terminal in the fuse holder. Poor contact = higher resistance = greater volt drop = heat!
Best bypass it, .....not much effort if you've got the tools and the parts.
Trev
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Hi,
I collected a 2b nearside side-panel yesterday. They had none in stock so made it for me there and then. The owners are not there so young Richard LLoyd seems to be running the show (hope he and the others there get paid )and a fine job he's making of it too!
£75
Trev
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Darren,
I sent a email to admin@robinhoodsportscars.co.uk on 6th Sept. The next day Richard Lloyd responded by email. He phoned me 2 days later to confirm details. I have contacted RHSC since on 01623 422286 and I am collecting parts from them this Friday.
Try to call them, if unsuccessful, drop them an email.
Trev
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I hadn't realised that you could still buy direct from RHSC.
Yes, they are only in administration, so they are still trading. Richard called me just yestyerday and confirmed it's "business as usual", however their card machine is out of order so it's cash only
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Ian,
What are your plans? To have one made or make one yourself?
I am planning to go to RHSC on Friday to pick one up off Richard who has quoted me £75. (Mine is also damaged ).
Trev
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The seat belt did it's job well, it has to be said, looking at the bruising on his shoulder.
Hope for a speedy recovery.
Trev
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The extension on the side designed to reinstate the oil capacity that is lost by slicing the bottom off.
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the top of bulge is just below the level of the clutch cable eye on the bellhouse
Steve
Thanks for the quick reply Steve, I'll move forward with confidence now! Cheers
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On the subject of shortened sumps, I have just removed my sump and pick-up pipe to get them worked on. My engine and box are installed, I have viewed the NW site (brilliant it is too) and have a question. How does the new "bulge" on the side of the sump not clash with the clutch cable routing? Am I missing a trick ? Any advice will be welcome before I commit to the change!
Thanks
Trev
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To quote the Haynes manual:
"The system functions as follows............A small amount of coolant passes from the thermostat housing to the expansion tank, but the main circulation is through the inlet manifold, automatic choke (where applicable) and through the heater matrix, finally returning to the coolant pump."
Perhaps without the main circulation circuit, the temperature climbs more quickly and as such the thermostat opens sooner????????
Trev
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Hi Richard,
Here's the info I think you need.
30 = 3
85 = 2
86 = 1
87 = 5
Terminals 3 and 5 are the switch part of the relay.
Terminals 1 and 2 are the coil of the relay.
There is no problem with 86 and 87 (1 and 5) both connecting to the supply. Terminal 30 will be connected to the load. Terminal 85 will be connected the control side of the circuit, eg the switch.
Hope this helps,
Trev
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Also Josh, getting right back to basics, is the state of the battery ok? 12 volts at a battery doesn't mean it's got the charge to crank an engine over. It's worth checking, it wouldn't be the first time.....
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I should bide your time if I were you. I jumped head-first into buying a part-built ebay bargain. The car looked quite reasonable initially and was “only 8 hours from being SVA ready”. Yeah, right.. In all fairness it’s great mechanically but as far as electrics and trim…. well I bought it in March and I’ll be surprised if it’s on the road this time next year!!
Still you live and learn.. and you can learn a lot from the fellas on this site. Wish I’d known this was here back in March. Good luck with your search for the right car.
Trev
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Ron,
It sounds like a typical earthing problem. Check your earth points. If you have a Vicky Green harness the wires are black.
Trev
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Well whaddaya know, RedTrev is building a 2B just round the corner from me!. This idea is great, now I have someone close I can ply with HobNobs for help!
Crikey, literally round the corner!
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By viewing the "Sat" view rather than the "Map" view you can even pick out your own house from the Google Earth image (if the resolution for your area is good enough). Depends how accurate you want to be with the flag!
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Thanks for the dvd info Mick, much appreciated.
The hard drive is 40GB.
Trev
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I bought the ACER Travelmate 2414WMLi for £299.92 from Tesco's 2 days ago. It's a 15.4" widescreen and has built in wireless capability. DVD dual layer writer, whatever that means! Quite a nice machine at a great price. Only downfall I found is it needs more memory. Extra 512MB is £34 from Crucial delivered.
I took it home and 'er indoors went straight out and bought one for herself!
Superspec Headlight Wiring
in Electrics
Posted
Hi,
My 2B is built with a VG harness, and I can confirm UW (blue white) is main beam and UR (blue red) is dip beam.
Trev