megadodo

The rear fog light wont pull enough current to need a relay but it wont do any harm and it may make your fog light switch contacts last a bit longer.

I'm not sure it says anywhere in the paperwork about SVA or IVA that I have read that a seat belt bolt must be M10 or more, if so can some point me in the right direction? The mounts/bolts etc. should be a sufficient strength is all it implies. If the belt mounts as supplied (assuming the belts are approved) have an M8 hole then an M8 bolt of the right quality will do. however you have M10 holes in the bar so a sleeve will be required to ensure the bolt can't move in the hole. I haven't fitted mine (4 point harnesses) yet so I'll check my bolt hole sizes tonight and post tonight.

It's at least 2 years since the view of my house was updated, however the Lancaster bomber flying over Huntingdon (BBMF, not a fake) has gone (flown away?) so that has been updated recently. The thing that really suprised me while "flying" over the English country side is the huge number of airfield that still exist. Some where never given back to the farmers post war and some look like they are decaying rapidly and will become fields again soon by themselves.

Having solved my problem with the pedal, steering column and exhaust position I happily moved on to the footwells. Yet more issues! The one with the cutout for the column is too narrow for the drivers side and the the one without is too wide for the passenfger side. Did RH do a L/H drive version and I have got the wrong panels or am I missing something obvious. The measurements suggest they would fit well the other way round! I love all the fiddling and adjustment to get the kit together but this is getting ridiculous! Yours frustratedly.......

My brother is giving me his rusted VW Vento VR6, engine is still in fine fettle and should be good for 170 bhp with a fair bit of torque. The engine doesn't look much biger than a pinto. When/if I get my 2B through IVA I'll see if its a practial proposition. Clutch bell housing may be an issue as I can't find anything on t'interweb on VW to type 9 gearbox anywhere! Any thoughts folks?

Thanks folks, I'll take my camera and notebook to Stoneleigh and see if I can solve the mystery.

If it's not gone already there should be a soft metal tag attached by one of the backplate bolts. The diff status is stamped on that, but they do tend to corrode or get knocked off. Then its down to counting input to output turns to work out the ratio.

Hi All, I'm currently building a 2B plus with a 2.0L injection engine, now at the rolling chassis stage with engine, gearbox and prop fitted. Now I have started to test fit bits and bobs, is it my imagination or is there no way that the peadal box, steering shaft and exhaust all fit without it all banging together? Unless the steering front shaft support (the one with the "infamous" bearing) is cut, and the videos don't show that, the steering shaft to the steering rack wont clear the exhaust! Even if it is cut then the steering shaft angle would be very much pointing to the outside of the car. Plus how does the throttle pedal fit, no marks or holes and I'm not sure there enough room for. Will someone be at Stoneliegh with a standard unmodified 2B plus I could look at on Sunday? Many thanks in advance!

White smoke is probably steam, suspect headgasket is going or anywhere water is near the inlet system. Is the intercooler water cooled or perhaps the turbo, I don't know the cossie set up? As for the cutting out it sounds like the ECU box is not shielded from RF interference. It the ECU is a metal box then grounding it to the chassis may help, if not then shielding in an earthed metal box will have the same effect. Best of luck with the steam, sounds expensive to me? Malcolm

The pressure relief valve will cause problems if it fails to open at all (too high fuel pressure) and then the engine will flood, as well as if it opens too early (not enough fuel pressure) and then no or not enough fuel will get past the injectors. The way to test them is to disconnect the fuel return to the tank and supply 12 volts to the pump (disconnect it from the cars electrical system), you should be able to fill a litre jug with fuel from the return pipe in a couple of minutes. There should be a slight pause as the fuel system gets up to pressure, then the valve will open and allow fuel to flow through the return feed. Release any residual pressure from the input line before doing this or you wont get the pause as the sytem comes up to pressure. Your symptom suggests the valve isn't opening but I'm NOT a mechanic. As always swapping the valve for a known working one is the ultimate test. Best of Luck

Ford no longer sell the diff plug, how daft is that?

No, its drums I'm afraid!

I have a whole rear axle off a 2.0i sapphire, its taking up space so its yours for £20 is you want it ?

Most electrical problems are due to bad earthing and the symptom suggests this as well. check the earthing point for the faulty side. Best of luck

It's to do with the current draw. The relay can switch high currents reliably and through as short a route as possible without having too big a voltage drop. You could use the horn push on the steering wheel but its not good at shifting high currents as the contact area is unreliable throughthe sliding contact as the steering wheel has to the inconvenient thing of turning the front wheels left and right. It also means that smaller diameter wires can be used at the switches. Imagine all your switches being wired with fat wiring, just look at the wires at the ignition switch! Hope that helps?

Thanks to one and all, certainly much clearer in my head now! I am almost ready to scrap the donor car (all bits for the 2b removed, just some potentialy saleble items to come off now) so what do I do about the V5 etc. Do I register it as scrap, if so how do I keep proof of the age related stuff etc. Will a scrappy take it away without signing it over to him?

Thanks Nigel, that makes sense I suppose. While on the subject of VIN numbers what do I do? I have the donor car's documents and VIN plate but I guess I can't just rivet it to the chassis and that I have to make 1 up and stamp it somewhere?

Hi Folks, My first post! Probably not my last either! I was obviously under a mishaprehension that once you had passed your SVA you could get the car registered and reading through the SVA posts I see there is a BUI. My questions are as follows, is this relatively new, what does it entail and what's the point of an SVA test if the car then needs a BUI, or am I missing something.