niduncan

I have used AVO's on the rear of my Series 3 - see here Not very low cost though!

I think I agree with Will!

I am sure the software would handle it but I have just remembered that I have a blocked off a vacuum takeoff where the crankcase breather attatches to the manifold. I shall stick the Magajolt on that tonight and see what happens.

I bought a mushroom filter on ebay which was to tall to fit. I retained the base plate of the pancake filter, used the external metal mesh cut down by 20mm, from the mushroom filter as the inner mesh. Drilled a small hole every 30 degrees around the base plate. Put the mushroom filter foam over the mesh and then used cable looming tape to tie it down. Job done.

Modified the air filter this evening, should keep Big Jim happy!

Nigel, You have hit the nail on the head. The vacuum takeoff is on the air side of the butterfly, so at idle there is virtually no vacuum. I suspect that most people take the vacuum from the manifold which at idle will have a high vacuum - 20 to 30kPa. My pressure readings are not a problem though. All the pressure readings do are indicate the load on the engine so all I do is set up the ignition map in the Megajolt to work with the pressure back to front. Snapperpaul, Any Weber info would be gratefully appreciated. Your mention of Vacuum Gauges set me thinking - RHE supplied a set of 4 2"guages with the kit, I have just had a rummage in the garage and managed to find them as I never used them. One of them is a vacuum gauage so I think I shall have a play with it, the only problem is it is calibrated in inches of mercury. I think that 100kPa = 30InHg. Thanks guy's.

Peter, The vacuum at idle is 100kPa which is just about atmospheric pressure (102kPa) which means no vacuum! The harder you rev the engine the more vacuum is created ie the pressure drops to 20kPa. If I power up the Megajolt on the bench connected to a laptop the pressure is 102kPa. If you suck the pipe going to the MAP sensor the pressure drops i.e. goes towards 0kPa which would be a perfect vacuum, if you blow, the pressure rises above 102kPa i.e. 120kPa. This concept seems to confuse a lot of people going by explanations I have found on the web, so I am not alone being confused!

Tea breaks not included! It does include hours done by Her in Doors! Luckily I have a wife who loves to get her hands dirty, she helped with the engine removal and re-fitting. She did all the interior trimming, carpets an vinyl. Must be a pain if you have a wife who does not understand the joy of being a Hoodie!

Yep the filter is a problem, I did buy another type to replace it but there is so little room between the carb and bonnet it would not fit! Notepad? No - a build diary that I have been keeping since visiting RHE prior to buying the kit in 1997. I bought some of the Megajolt parts from Bill, must drop him an e-mail.

Today my hood hit the road again after 179 hours of work since last November. Jobs done: Removed engine and replaced clutch (causing judder), replaced gearbox (synchromesh on 2nd gone), replaced head with unleaded one. Fitted shortened sump - clearance is now 7 inches. Put heat protection around footwell. Cleaned and painted just about everything in the engine bay. Build a Megajolt unit, mounted trigger wheel and sensor, made new wiring loom. Replaced seat belt harnesses with inertia belts. Hopefully the rebuilditis disease will stay away for a while, I just want to drive it now. Has anybody got any working Megajolt maps for a 2lt pinto? I am running a Weber 32/36DGV and using the vacuum takeoff to feed the Megajolt MAP sensor. At idle the pressure is about 100kPa and as the engine is reved the pressure drops to about 20kPa. Going by info found on the web idle should be about 20-30kPa rising to 100kPa at full throttle, mine seems to be doing the opposite! Is this dependant on carb type and where the vacuum is taken from? I have downloaded several maps but most seem to be for a Throttle Position Sensor. Do we have any Megajolt experts in the club?

Hi Peter, that is the coil pack. I had an old distributor which I stripped out all the internals, cut it down then bolted a mounting plate onto it which then holds the coil pack. In true hoodie tradition - never throw anything away!

I bought a 4.5 inch trigger wheel from this guy to fit to my pinto. It is the same diameter as the crank pulley and fits nicely between the pulley and the block.

Hi Mike, I had the same problem on my Series 3. I found that the diff housing was permanently touching the bodywork, this meant that when you let the clutch out quickly the diff would move away the bodywork (the rear diff mount is rubber allowing the diff to move) then the clunk is when it comes back to rest against the bodywork. I cut away some of the stainless so that the diff does not make contact. Problem solved.

Found this in my local car parts shop. It states its for diesel but should work OK with petrol. Cost £5.99. Has anybody any thoughts on the best place to position it? Near the tank. Tank side of the pump. Carb side of the pump. ??????

Hi Bernie, Try Bill Shurvinton - bill@shurvinton.fsworld.co.uk I bought a circuit board and processor chip from him. Back in October he e-mailed the following to me: Currently I only offer kits of parts, built units, trigger wheels and reclaimed EDIS parts. I have not yet managed to find a loom builder to allow me to do a turnkey solution. I am currently changing over to the newer V3 design, so my prices are currently being revised, but somewhere around £55 fora kit of parts and £70 for a built unit.

Thank's for the info, sounds like an inertia switch is essential! I don't suppose anybody has a spare lying around they would like to part with? How would the oil pressure sensor be wired into the fuel pump circuit? I have a VDO sensor that feeds an electronic oil pressure guage and it also has a feed that supplies an earth for the oil pressure light. How could this switched earth be used when the fuel pump has to run before the engine is started and also stop the pump if the engine stops in an accident?

I have tried to contact the seller via ebay but no reply yet!

I am thinking of fitting an electronic fuel pump to replace the standard mechanical pump (pinto with carb). One thing that I am not sure about is how to automatically cut of the supply voltage to the pump in the event of an accident. How has it been done on fuel injected cars?

Just been having a browse on ebay to see what hoods are for sale and I spotted this one Robin Hood S7 - what caught my eye though was the picture - it's a picture of my car! Somebody is using a picture of my car to sell their unfinished one - what percentage of the selling price do you think should be coming my way? Anybody know who the culprit is?

The above weighs 5kg. If you wanted to put it in a box it would have to be at least 100x35x35cm.

Hi SM, I have the RHE supplied manifold off my series 3 at the moment. I can weigh it tomorrow, what measurements do you need?

No its not been tried yet. My engine is spread all over the garage at the moment - hope to get it back in soon though. I have not seen a MegaJot installation in the flesh yet, I have picked up lots of info on the web. In true hoodie tradition it was trial and error when devising a way to mount the trigger wheel and sensor, I just hope it works!

Hi Sam, I bought the trigger wheel here on ebay. The 4.5" is the same diameter as the crank pulley. I had a shoulder machined on the back of the pulley and then the hole in the trigger wheel enlarged to fit onto the shoulder. There is a 4mm gap between the pulley and trigger wheel. The trigger wheel can be rotated so that it can be aligned with the sensor correctly (sensor is 90 deg before missing tooth when the pulley TDC mark is at TDC). Once you are happy with the alignment then the trigger wheel is spot welded to the crank pulley. The cambelt cover needs to be trimmed to make room for the trigger wheel. I bought the sensor and EDIS module on ebay and they both came with the Ford plugs and a few inches of wire, these could always be sourced from a scrap yard. The wiring can be extended or the plugs taken apart and new wiring fitted. All the instruction to make the kit and the software needed to load the maps can be downloaded from here.

I am currently fitting a MegaJolt to my pinto engined Series 3. So far I have mounted a trigger wheel on the back of the crankshaft pulley and made an adjustable bracket to mount the sensor. This arrangement will mean that the fan belt can be changed without moving the sensor. I bought a circuit board and pre-programmed processor chip from Bill Shurvinton and will source the rest of the components elsewhere. The engine is currently out at the moment: head, gearbox and clutch change. Once the engine is back in I will be able to test the trigger wheel/sensor by just using the EDIS module (will run at fixed 10btc). Not sure when I shall complete the MegaJolt unit though, need to get the car back on the road first as spring is fast approaching.

I have Intatrim Odyssey's in my Series 3 - see here