Jamiep

you'll surley make that back by selling bits you dont want so it is infact a free engine. go for it!

What is thats actually stopping the doors opening?

if its the pin being too tight in the second part of the hinge get some emery cloth and give the pins a polish, if their real tight run a drill down the hole.

if like mine the 2 halfs of the hinge catch when put together use a washer over the pin before fitting the door. this seems to work on mine although only a dry run as mine are not fitted to the car yet.

I suspect the hinges are not in line though if the door wont budge without bending, might just need moving.

Hi, just received my wet weather gear from GBS, very impressed as I ordered it late friday.

The hood and doors look to be very good quality but........

The aluminium bars are shocking! scuffed and dinted and way too big.

Going to take them to a fab shop where I used to work to see if we can re-bend are re-make.

The part I'm not sure about is the windscreen edge fitting, when I pull the front edge over the screen I can lightly clamp the outer corners and it looks like it would create quite a good seal with the padded piping inside, but I'm no sure once the fasteners are in it will be as close.

I've done some searching and found good info on the awning but could do with some close up pics of how the leading edge of the roof looks (not the screen/ channel) other cars. I presume you have to slide the edge along the channel starting at one end or can you just snap it in?

If I don't go with the awning method which lift-the-dot fasteners do you use as that appears to be the brand name rather then the specific items.(I dont like the idea of press studs comming undone at 70!)

Thanks in advance.

Jamie.

I used to have one called snap-off for one of my cars, the boss was spacific to the make/model spline of the steering column and then the adaptor which came off was specific to the brand of wheel i.e. Momo etc.

It was very simple to use and even had horn connections but it made the wheel stick out about an inch from memorey.

I believe they are still available I got mine from a shop called larkspeed which used to be in Hull.

Its going back around 8yrs or so but I'm sure it was quite abit more then £35

just found the site: http://www.snap-off.com/

thanks I'll investigate whats there.

My temp guage isnt working at all and after reading this checked and found that my sender isn't connected to anything.

There are a few single wires with what appear to be manufacturer female connectors nearby but they are all taped to the loom.

What colour wire should be connected? (mines a 2ltr pinto)

My first time

Very good read, well worth the membership. keep up the good work.

Actually, after HOURS of fiddling with the damn thing (to ensure that the float is at the bottom of the tank when empty, and at the top of the tank when full)....

The guage reads FULL when tank is FULL and EMPTY when tank is empty....

BUT....

It plummets from 'Full' to 'Half full' like a bloody comet!

I think ithe new sender has a different resistance range to my old one!!

Aaargghhhhhhhhh

The guage on my Exmo is very erratic if I fill the tank the guage plumets to empty and only displays when it gets to 3/4 in the tank, then reads 50% untill about 1/4 tank left when it drops and settles at 1/4 reading, I then refuelled and put in just under 15 litres so I presume it reads 1/4 correct for a 20 litre tank?

The car had been sat for approx 3 years before I bought it so just thought something has been sticking, now it sounds normal

All I need to do now is work out how to remove the cat without sending the ecu crazy (It compares two sensors, before & after the cat to check emisssions & goes nuts if the cat is removed..)

This can be achieved quite easily with mil light eliminator (basically a couple of resistors and a capacitor form memory) available from somewhere like Janspeed or PTP, its simply soldered into the post cat sensor cables to trick the ecu into thinking the sensor range is back to normal.

As for the engine to gearbox adaptor, I'm guessing this isn't something that can be bought off the self but should be able to get one machined. Having not taken the engine out (or even looked at that mount) i presume I would need a ring with countersunk holes to match the PCD of the threaded holes in the engine block and studs welded in to match the hole PCD of a V6 ford gearbox?

As above really, I happen to have an MGZS 180 taking up room on my drive and getting past it in the kit can be a pain. I’ve had no interest trying to sell it in the paper so I put 2 and 2 together and thought Hmm would that V6 fit in my Exmo?

I have spent alot of time in and around heavily modified MG's and a popular swap for the ZR lot was either the old T series turbo from a coupe or a 600 or the new V6 from the ZS, I know the Exmo will take a K series so will it take the V6? what else would I need?

Is the Exmo strong enough for this sort of engine?

answers or ideas welcome.

ps I'm on a budget!

First off, I have to say what a stunning set of cars you all have. It was our first time at a kit car show and I wasn’t sure what to expect but the standard was high. Thanks to a friendly family who phoned the car owner about his seats (apparently from an MR2 with belt holes added) sorry I didn't catch any names.

Really wish I'd brought my Exmo but was worried about long drive back to Hull from Silverstone on the Sunday, as it turned out it took us 3 hrs to get out of the field before the 3hr drive even started anyway, Saturday was top notch, a little overcast but we still got burnt lol.

I could of a fortune on bits and bobs, seats and roof but luckily I had no room in the boot.

I will defiantly be there next year!

Cool, I'm not alone!

We'll have to organize a meet up in the next couple of weeks, it'll probably have to be an evening due to family/work/F1GP etc.

Hello,

I keep seeing an Orange Robin Hood (I think) in and around Hull, never get a good look at it as I always seem to be going in the opposite direction and I've always been in the tin top.

Just wondered if its anybody from here, we could maybe have a mini meet as I've not seen any other hood in the flesh.

Anyway, hope to meet some of you at Newark, will be in the tin top as we are travelling on to the F1GP on Sunday and I don't have any wet weather gear other then a coat!

Jay.

I just recently bought a 440Amp battery from halfords (expensive) but works and fits the ref No. is HCB063, mine fires first time now.

Also used same type in my heavily modified MGZR and it never faild me.

I had similar problem on mine, would not idle well or cut out whilst slowing down.

Friend of mine spotted this:

There had been a rubber cap there last time we looked and it was sucking air in making the engine run lean, blocked it off again and the car now idles fine and nolonger cuts out.

Thanks for the replys, I'll check out the different lights suggested and I think I have the struts sorted after hitting a few dead ends, I'll know more later this week.

only ever welded st/st with TIG but always used 316 rods and pure Argon, never had any trouble welding 316 to 304 but never realy got past apprentice stage.

Is there any members from around the york- hull area??

Hi I'm from Hull, just trying to get an Exmo on the road after a 3 year layup. (also about to join up)

I'm afraid if its been on a while and suject to heat its a real pain to get off, just pick at it with a flexible plastic spatular then clean with 3m stainless cleaner to get the glue off (this is slightly abrasive so be careful of getting swirls on mirror finished panels)

Cold chisel is one which engineer or mason will use normally forged from hexagonal steel bar and ground to almost a point (about 1.5mm rad from memory) not to be confused with a carpenters chisel which are sharpe.

try to get the tip of the chisel against the corner of the nut and strike with a weighty hammer.

the idea is to get the nut to shock free so you can then use a spanner.

Right looked at the headlights and they are a sealed unit (you all probably knew that) and there is no side light connection.

followed a link off here to nw.rhocar which show this:

Is this side light a modification?

sorry for all the questions but I want to get an MOT in one shot as the car is currently sorn and its killing me having it just sat there

I would agree with maca, its a chisel job. From the pic it looks like a stainless nut, if the screw is stainless also its probably welded itself together.

A good tip if using stainless hardware is to use a small amount of copper slip on the thread to prevent it from locking together, trust me after nearly 10 years in the food industry its always the least accessable ones that pick up even when hand tight.

Thanks for the reply, will check the double blown bulb theory tomorrow.

As for the front suspension I may be using the wrong names etc, any way heres a ropey mobile phone pic.

First things first, Hello

I have just bought a Robin Hood Exmo from a friend at work after a long period laid up in a garage (about three years)

The car looks to have stood up well over the years, there are no stress fractures around the tub and the front suspension has already been strengthened around the strut top mounting.

A little history.

I have a folder full of information regarding the kit which appears to have been built between December 1995 The year a green Ford with the same reg had its last MOT and May 1st 1997 when the reg becomes a blue Robin Hood

I also have a receipt from Robin Hood Engineering Ltd showing the original kit cost £1000 + £350 for optional st/st body/chassis unit and an extra £50 for the long swept wings. (there is no date though)

Here goes with the questions:

-There does not appear to be any side lights on the car? with the ignition off, stalk at position one and two - rear lights come on only. With ignition on, stalk at position one - rear lights only. Stalk at position two headlight now work. Is this normal for this kit? and will it pass an MOT like this.

-The front nearside shock appears to be leaking. does anybody know the size and ratings for these and recommend a good retailer?

-The engine code is FU, which according to the wiki means it pre unleaded. is there any way of telling if its been converted without taking off the head.

Sorry for the list of questions which I'm sure have been answered before but I've spent quite a few hours searching before posting.

Also I'm in Hull, are there any meets coming soon in this area?

Regards,

Jay.