Jamiep

You could always wire the original lamp behind the dash in parallel. Sounds daft but the simple cheapest option if you already have it.

I know 3 people who own/have owned RX8s. Very thirsty on fuel but fun to drive in comfort. The running untill warm is due to the overfueling needed when cold, if you don't run 'till warm the fuel sits in the chamber over the lower spart plug when stopped and drowns it. Not a major problem but is a pain at fuel stations as 2 out of 3 have found. I think the RX8 is classed as a 2.6 (2 chambers at 1.3cc) and get hammered on tax if 06 or newer. They share some common problems to my MPS with rust and wheel corrosion, some have been known to suffer ecu problems too with dry joints causing intermitant imobiliser faults. Starter motors and battery where upgraded on later models to help starting when the rotor tips start to wear. Faster spin helps tips seal on chamber wall. Hth

I have interiors seating RX7's in my Exmo, not used them in anger yet but they are comfy to sit in whilst dreaming its finished.

Can't help on the model, I only found one listed. You can get the whole strut with spring cup from Eurocarparts but you well need to cut it up to get the insert out and there is no guarantee it would be the same size as the original. I got a second hand unit from GBSC a few years back but I think it was luck as they had it in a box laying around. I was told by GAZ that they could make one to the dimensions for about £80 a shock If you do get an insert you well need to press off the threaded collar and press it back onto the new one. Hope that helps.

I'm confused now (easy done I know) my alternator had a 6v output to an electronic choke but the terminals look like the Bosch. My label is unreadable but I researched photos and came to the conclusion it was a Bosch 55amp, if so the 30amp cable mentioned would get hot, mine had burnt through on one of the crimps the previous user had done so it was all running up one of the 2 leads.

I thought fitting the roof would be a lot harder then it actually was, I started by leaving the top near the radiator in the house and putting the heaters on in the garage! Measure the centre point of the screen and the centre of the rear panel then did the same to the hood, marking with chalk. Remember, if you drill into the screen top rial, don't use any force or as soon as the drill goes through it will hit the glass and could shatter it! I pop riveted fasteners for mine except the two at each end of the screen which I drilled and tapped, I also used turn buckles for the end where the roof meets the door at the bottom for a bit more strength. There should be some photos on here if you search my posts.

With up and over doors you need to secure them low down, otherwise the scumbags will fold the door up using the runners as a pivot point! I speak (type) from experience.

After having (very) basic fire training for my BOSIET I wouldnt want to tackle a car fire with on of those small extinguisers. Powder will settle, as stated, it will also destroy the eletrical system and get into the carbs etc. Foam will run off so wont do its job of blanketing the fire to smother it before it runs out. I would go for CO2 that way you can kill the fuel supply and release through bonnet vents without opening to take away the oxygen. Its supprising how long it takes to knock down a flame and how long you need to keep using the extinguiser to stop it flaring back up, im not sure those little ones would last long enough.

One useful bit of kit I saw recently was a smoke screen, combined with strobes and siren can be so disorientating that the give up. Doesn't stop them damaging the doors getting in though.

No major problems here, hoping it all dies down before 1/1/14 though as we are due another high tide which is forcast to be a foot higher then the one which over topped Hull's defences the other week.

bolt is now out, thanks for all the suggestions, it had very restricted acces with the engine in but with it out I managed to hammer on a 13mm Irwin the drive it off by stricking it a few times with an impact driver then resorted to 450nm impact wrench which struggled at first then it came free. Bolt head is knackered but should be able to pick one up tomorrow from fastener supplier. now onto the Timing chain and VVT. Btw when the bolt came out it had some sort of epoxy putty on it which still smells like Araldite but wasn't set hard, don't think it was factory stuff so could have been the cause of the problems.

Well after an 11.5 mile bike ride to screwfix I have picked up an Irwin bolt extractor set. unfortunately i need to hammer the socket on as its between sizes so its engine out time. Now where did i leave that box of matches.....

thanks for the responses, unfortunately I cant get to it to get a wrench on it due to webbing on the casting, those Bergen sockets might do the trick well have to walk to Halfrauds and see if I can find something similar. I have managed to tap on a 1/2" socket on (originally 13mm) and put some tape on head but still spins. Cant get a 12mm on and not enough room to hammer it on. Think I'm going to have to remove the engine fully and attack it that way, should have done this in the first place, would probably have done it by now.

Hi guys, HELP! Once again I'm stuck working on my Mazda 6 MPS instead of the kit, and once again a simple job has spiralled into disaster zone. I'm trying to change the timing chain and VVT unit on this car and its already taken 4 days to get this far after trying for two days to release the crank bolt I resorted to reassembling everything, cranking the engine with a bar on it which worked but has thrown out the timing. This would not have been a problem as I can reset as I'm going but, I have now stripped the head of a bolt on the front engine cover and cant get it off I don't have any welding gear or burning gear so its either angle grinder, if I can get it in or hacksaw. Anybody got any Ideas? I'm almost at the point of setting fire to it PS. its a Mazda L3 engine with turbo which is Ford based if that help

Sorn'd mine 3 years ago this month. determined to have it back on the road for summer, despite the tintop draining funds and my will to live.

I've got a similar issue with the tin top, the chain has stretched and is hitting the cam cover. Mazda want over £1.5k to fix so I'm doing myself but had to get parts from America. So far its cost me £350 in parts and tools, money that would have been better spent on the Hood.

this is something I'm interested in too, picked up the flyer at one of the shows where they were doing demonstrations, would deffinatly need to build up the floor to get the Exmo over it though. I recently found a company selling these, 4 post and 2 post ramps at various prices and was supprised how cheep 2 post lifts are. would need a higher garage though.

Thanks for the offer mowerman, but I think I already have the design sheets. Was just after an easy pre-made buy. Thanks for uploading pics Dan but I think I'll wait to make my own with a bend to avoid the wheels on full lock. I need full lock to get in and out of work carpark so can't use bump stops in the rack.

can I have a bit more detail on the front tie bar kit please, size/material etc is everything needed included ie internal bracing. are there any pics of it installed.

Could this not be resolved with the standard lucas light switch? Have side light on permanently as DRL have position 1 as dipped beam and position 2 as rear fog with amber warning light on dash, that way you have to turn off fog to turn off lights and can turn on and off at will. I may be missing something though.

If its a van has it got little orange lights on the front wing?(not the indicators) Once had a merc pick up fail as they where not working.

I had a similar incident a few years back, whole front end put out of alignment it was hit so hard. Got back to car to find two people with different scraps of paper waiting for me with a description of the driver, car and number plate. I passed info to the police who later rang me to say it couldn't have been that car as it was a company car and hadn't been signed out that night and it was on private property with no injury so they were dropping it just had my Mazda scratched and creased by some D!@~ head with a door in a car park too. Some people have no respect for others property.

The trick is to rinse off all the grit and dust first or you'll just end up with swirl marks all over it, then window cleaner or 3M stainless cleaner. It is possible to re-polish to a mirror finish but its not a quick or easy job and once you start you'll wish you'd left it alone!

Not sure if this will work, this is a link to the S7 build manual which is similar to the Exmo https://www.dropbox.com/s/htwcbt3xsgyrug3/S7%20build%20manual.pdf It will give you an idea of what is expected, you will also need to search the forum for additional work needed to pass the IVA, its been done recently so nothing to worry about.