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Found 8 results

  1. Sim70

    Front Brakes

    Can someone tell me what front stub axles are fitted to a 2b+ as mine is running solid discs and are warped so need vented anyway
  2. Hi all, I'm trying to source a replacement front off side brake caliper for my Robin Hood 2b but cant find a part number on it apart from 29P. Looking at the paperwork I have for the car the donor was a Ford Sierra 1982. Sorry for the quality of the pictures, I'll try and get some better ones uploaded tomorrow. Can anyone offer any help please. Thank you in advance Paul
  3. Hi all, I need some advice as I can't figure out what the best course of action is. I have fitted 2 rear sierra disc brake calipers to my GBS zero and now need some flexible hoses to connect to the chassis bulk head. My original plan was to use an M10 banjo on the caliper end and a female swivel union at the chassis end (I've used bulk head connectors to terminate the fixed lines). Is that the correct thinking? I can't get any good pictures of what other people have used on flexible lines so I'm not sure if I should use a banjo (rather than screwing straight into the caliper). Are bulkhead connectors a waste of time? Do banjos cause problems? Some will suggest just buying the parts from kit spares but I haven't used the Ford OEM calipers (I got some Wilwood power lites instead) so I don't think the kit spares part would fit. I'm not planning on building the braided lines, I'm going to get Furore to make them as I've seen some good comments about them. Finally, do I need to use any threading compound for the brake lines (like one would with PTFE tape on plumbing)? Thanks in advance, Andrew
  4. filwaf

    Brakes For Zero

    Hi all, I have just this week placed the order for the basic chassis kit ( for ford 2L zetec ) and am now planning ancillery items such as brakes. Am I correct in assuming that a brake servo is not needed ? Also what are the merits / advantages of multi-pot callipers over single pot callipers or is it preferable to have say 4 pot callipers to help with stopping or will this just lock up the wheels with heavy breaking ?Regards Fil.
  5. Hi all, I have finally managed to get some time to start working on the car (yay!) having recently got married; now I can get on with the important things eh? Anyway, I am really struggling with brakes at the moment and I am sure that this question has been asked before (and answered) but I haven't been able to find it on google. 1. How do you know if a brake caliper is going to fit on your hub? Is it one-size-fits all? or do you need special hangers to attach the caliper to the hub? Any information (parts that would work would be nice too appreciated). I don't want to buy a caliper only to find it won't bolt to the sierra hub. 2. How do you work out what sort of brake joints to use? Is it better to use imperial/metric? Does it make any difference? Is either more prevelent? Can you mix and match (I don't mean use an imperial fitting with a metric bolt but rather have a joint in metric with imperial ends). 3. In the IVA, how do they inspect the brake pipes that go through the tunnel? I'm guessing you have to provide photos? I know that's a lot of questions but I just can't seem to find any answeres for this stuff. Also, is anybody near Leeds? Cheers, Andrew
  6. Hi all, At long last I've completed my Zero and with help from GBS it went through the IVA without too much problem. I'm now a fully fledged 'Hoodie'! My immediate problem is poor braking. The brakes have been bled and there is no air in the sytem. I've washed the discs in spirit to remove any residue. I've removed the brake pads and roughed them up. The master cylinder was a reconditioned Ford Sierra one (all new seals). I've been told the vehicle should stop on a sixpence (old money), unfortunately it doesn't. I've just done a 22 mile run today in the hope of bedding the brakes in but nothing noticable happened. Is it me expecting too much??? Has anyone encountered the same problem? If you did, how did you get around it? regards Mike
  7. just failed it's mot, (3rd time) 1st test, rear spring cracked, rusty brake pipes above fuel tank and blown number plate light. replaced rear spring new bulb and fitted new copper brake pipe to replace rusty bits, retest, leak from joint where I had joined the copper pipe to the ford steel pipe went home re made the joints bled brakes test joint with engine running all ok, till next morning joint leaking again, found small crack in the steel pipe where i had swaged it re done , no leaks , went back for another retest checking on route that there even braking seemed ok, FAIL again , this time rear braking uneven , seems there is a valve in line on each side that limits the brakes at the back , spoke to a ford dealer , o yes common problem £ 64 each side :diablo: at this rate i can see it turning into a doner peter2b
  8. Hi, Ive been trying to bleed the brakes on my Zero (again) and have read through old posts so thought I'd start a new one. My Zero has discs all round and I have a brand new master cylinder and reservoir. I definitely have air some where because if I pump the brakes they will eventually firm up and work. I am loathe to start clamping the braided hoses to see if its one particulair corner and I have confirmed caliper fitting on the front, ie: front calipers nipple up and rears nipple down. I am lost can anyone help??? Hammy
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