Robin Hood Lightweight Support?

[Grizzly]

The third picture is a drivers eye view. It's easy to reach and should keep the SVA man happy.

[Grizzly]

Sorry the pictures are a bit small, but you should get the idea. If you want I can email the originals to you. Just let me know.

[Mitch]

Steve, take those pics, and any you have of the inside to the SVA with you, they may want to see how its mounted too.

 

otherwise they could ask you to prove the mounting inside is strong enough for its use.

 

Only saying as a precaution, looks okay from pics, but when trimmed and finished it would be hard to see whats underneath.

 

HTH

mitch

[Grizzly]

Yes, thanks Mitch. I'll be making sure I take plenty with me come the dreaded day. I'm hoping to show the SVA man so many that'll he get so bored and just give me a pass to get rid of me.

[Guest macca]

I'm thinking of taking my lap top with me, He can look at the whole web site!!!

[Guest Battery Bill]

Macca

I'm thinking of taking my lap top with me

 

We did and it paid off because Mr SVA wanted to look at the inner seat belt mounts

[E.Hunt]

Just finished dvd 2

 

for sva I've used locknuts on all the 6mm bolts that hold the tunnel sides to the floor and those around the engine bay / front suspension and a trim around the rear.

 

not sure on handbrake placement ,worried cables would get caught in prop on the top?

[Jon Bradbury]

Just a thought about tunnel top mounting on the Lightweight.

 

If it's the aluminium one you might want a strengthening plate. You can tunnel top mount on a 2B easily because the chassis centre members are right there and the handbrake can be bolted to it easily. But on the folded chassis you ought to consider whether or not that particular place is going to be strong enough.

 

Same with mounting it on the passenger side tunnel wall. I would expect an examiner to look for bracing of some sort inside the tunnel that passes the braking force to the chassis. If the handbrake flaps about it'll surely fail.

[Grizzly]

.... for sva I've used locknuts on all the 6mm bolts that hold the tunnel sides to the floor and those around the engine bay / front suspension and a trim around the rear.....

Do you have to???? I've just replaced the pops with nuts, washers and phillips head screws only.

[Guest diyer]

thanks for the hanbrake info Grizz, that is something i may use

[E.Hunt]

not sure if you have to, just I didn't like the nuts supplied and kept seeing mention of locknuts for sva.

[Guest chris brown]

I've just replaced the pops with nuts, washers and phillips head screws only.

You don’t have to use locknuts (nylock or similar) BUT there must be a locking method either a spring washer or a second nut locked against the first also all nuts must have threads of the bolt passing right through them plus something like 3 threads showing through. That goes for all nuts and bolts on the car except the wheel nuts.

[Guest Petemate]

Absolutely right re taking pics. I had a load of mine, namely seat belt inner mounts etc. The inspector was pleased to be able to thumb through the folder and see haw various brackets etc were fitted, especially those under the trim.

Every little helps.... (sorry Tesco..)

[Guest diyer]

Do ALL bolts used on the car need to be locked? Does it not matter what the purpose of the bolt is?

??

So once again does this mean RH supply the wrong parts with the kit?????

 

thanks

Simon

[Guest chris brown]

So once again does this mean RH supply the wrong parts with the kit?????

Well not exactly they just don’t supply enough of anything. OK so the bits they do supply are not only not enough but are C&*P :gdit:

The best bet is to throw away all RHSC supplied fasteners (nuts, bolts, rivets, bonnet over centre catches etc) and start again with decent quality items it may sound a bit of a waste but it is worth it in the end.

 

Do ALL bolts used on the car need to be locked?

To be on the safe side yes. I caln't think of any that don't need to be.