Rear Exhaust Mount

[Guest wildejon]

Does anyone have any pics or a description of how I support the rear of the exhaust system? Can't seem to figure out how to do it, I thought there should be more than one fixing hole on the chassis too...

Ta!

[Guest elwe]

We cut the top half of the tab on the exhaust off and then bolted a rubber cotton reel style exhaust mounting to the hole in the bottom half of the tab. We then used a long nut to join a bit of threaded rod onto the other side of the cotton reel and bolted this through the chassis tube thats roughly behind the exhaust. We made the hold in the side panel several mm larger than the threaded rod so the exhaust could vibrate without the rod touching the side panel and then filled the gap with clear silicon. The mount is now all below the exhaust which makes SVA edges a non issue.

[Guest wildejon]

Ok... My visualisations skills aren't what they used to be

Was the cotton reel thingy oriented horizontally?

I've fixed it on and it is currently vertical and pointing downwards...

Cheers for your help.

[enforcer]

Great minds Elwe ......

 

I did exactly the same. The top mounting in the bracket seemed unnecessary to me too, so I cut it off. With a bracket made from angle iron bolted tho the chassis plate and a rubber bobbin I now have a very secure mounting which does not involve making a hole in the side panel.

[Guest wildejon]

That's how I envisaged it working out, I've only got one fixing point on the back box and it's 90degrees out... Definitely ends up pointing at the floor, it looks like the pics in the robin hood brochure. I reckon I'll give what you are saying a go and make a new bracket that simplifies the issue by enabling me to fix the bobbin horizontally.

Thanks for your help both of you.

[Guest elwe]

Here is mine:

 

 

I like the way the stainless has confused the image stabliser in my camera.

[geoff shep]

I made a s/s bracket and used 2 bobbins - wouldn't there be quite a lot of twisting moment using a single bobbin? However mine's mounting direct onto the body panel of an S7. Looks like I need some s/s bolts too.

 

 

[Guest salty_monk]

I had something similar to that but the rubbers broke through pretty quick... You can see where I blanked off the holes for the broken rubber with Nuts & Bolts in the pic. See my last effort below, was post SVA though....

 

 

[Guest salty_monk]

The first setup using two of those rubbers used to flex the side panel a lot too... something to think about if yours are painted...

 

I wouldn't be surprised if those shown in the other pics end up with drooping rubbers that break like I did too, if you can get the bobbin underneath it means less shear on the rubber...

[Grizzly]

At Newark last year I bought two bobbins from the Lcost guys. I fitted them as they said. You're right though, they make the panel flex. I'm going to put a plate on the inside of the panel and secure it to the bottom chassis rail in the hope that this will stiffen it up - Fingers crossed.

[eddieH]

I've mounted the exhaust the same as Grizzly's. With another bit of steel on the other side of the panel it seems suitably stiff. Also I used some large rubber caps (same diameter as the rubber bobbins) from Maplin with a hole drilled in the middle. One of these goes between each rubber bobbin and the side panel. They flex slightly as the nuts are tightened up and take up the curved profile of the side panel perfectly. As an added bonus, there are enough caps left in a pack to blank off the open ends of a 2B's chassis tubes to keep the water out. Regards,

Edward

[Guest salty_monk]

Mine had a stainless plate on the inside for extra support but it was more the whole panel that would flex, plus your bobbins will go the way of the blocks of rubber I had... i.e. separate from their mounting plates as they are in shear. Better to have them in tension or compression....

 

That said though, min lasted for about 2,000 miles & one finally broke going round Barkston... 2 wide cable ties then kept the whole thing together for the next 800 miles or so

[Longboarder]

As Salty says having at least one in compression is nice.

 

Nigel

[Guest elwe]

We made the side panel hole larger than the stud so that the exhaust mounting oesn't touch our side panel. The silicon keeps the water out.

 

Our rubber mount has pushed the exhaust about 40mm away from the side of the car because the silencer was just touching the side panel at first. Thus it has quite a compression force on it. I don't think the rubber will break anytime soon. When it does the ends will hit and keep the exhaust in place until it can be replaced. The rubbers cost about a pound and can be changed in under 10 minutes because the whole of the rubber including mounting studs is outside the car.

[will]

As it's a super spec your building then you've probably got an L-shaped bracket that bolts onto the chassis just below the hole for the seat belt bolt.

 

I couldn't figure it out either to start with but in the end I turned the supplied bracket upside down and round the other way and made some new holes to bolt it to the chassis.

 

By doing it this way the supplied bobbin is the right size and supports the exhaust vertically.

 

If I made no sense send me a PM and I'll send you a piccy

 

 

Will