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What Do I Need To Get To Add A Seirra Instrument Cluster With A Rev Co


agent_zed

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Hi,

sorry if this has been asked before (couldn't find it in a search) but what is needed to change the clocks from a seirra with no rev counter to one that has one. Is it as simple as plugging in the rev counter clocks and it works on the wiring that is there or do i need an extra loom? My 2b has a standard pinto 1.6 carb and wiring from a H reg lazer.

 

any advice appreciated. thanks

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Is it as simple as plugging in the rev counter clocks and it works

Nearly. You will have to check the order of the wires in the plug for the old and new dash, (ie. oil light wire might be number 3 in the old and number 7 in the new so you have to get them in the right order.)

 

Then add a wire taken from the negative terminal of the coil to the rev counter via the dash plug of course.

 

Nigel

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Nearly. You will have to check the order of the wires in the plug for the old and new dash, (ie. oil light wire might be number 3 in the old and number 7 in the new so you have to get them in the right order.)

 

Then add a wire taken from the negative terminal of the coil to the rev counter via the dash plug of course.

 

Nigel

 

cool thanks, just have to hunt around for a cheap set of clocks now. Can't have a sports car without a rev counter can i :D

 

thanks

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Guest pwlcarz

I'v just done this exact change on my S7.

 

My old none Rev couter gauges had a 13 pin connector to the wiring loom. The new Gauges (with Rev counter) uses a 12 pin connector.

 

Assuming your new gauges use a different connector, then I'm afraid you will have to source the correct connector. I was lucky, a local scrapyard had a Sierra with the correct gauges and I had the connectore off the loom for a tenner (yeah a rip off but when you are desparate!!).

 

Old Dash

post-1735-1184015525_thumb.jpg

 

New Dash

post-1735-1184015767_thumb.jpg

 

I'll dig out my notes on the wiring colour coding if that would help.

 

Just let me know.

 

Regards

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Guest a8dyc

Hi,I'm also thinking of doing this change.I have the non rev counter gauge with the silly seat belt sign,I've got hold of a xr4x4 will i be able to fit this gauge.

 

Cheers Andy

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Guest timswait

I expect the XR4 one will be fine, just the same as for the previous instructions. I remember when I built my car I did the same thing, I managed to use the 12 pin connector somehow though, I manged to chop it about so that it would physically fit, don't remember what I did with the extra wire though, it may be that you only need 12 anyway, maybe one's a seatbelt warning or something like that? I've since fitted separate clocks.

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the only thing to watch with the xr4x4 dash is that most were V6 and the rev counter could be for a 6 cylinder engine - it can be recalibrated but it might be easier to find a set from a 4 cylinder model

 

they usually have a small 4 or 6 in the corner of the face to denote the no of cylinders they are set for

 

Steve

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Guest a8dyc
the only thing to watch with the xr4x4 dash is that most were V6 and the rev counter could be for a 6 cylinder engine - it can be recalibrated but it might be easier to find a set from a 4 cylinder model

 

they usually have a small 4 or 6 in the corner of the face to denote the no of cylinders they are set for

 

Steve

 

Thanks Steve,

Its a v6.I have the whole car.

 

Andy

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Guest pwlcarz

Just dug out my notes on instrument wiring.

 

My old non-rev counter instrument plug had a 13 Pin connector with wires as follows

 

Pin Wire Colour Circuit

1 Blue Alternator

2 Black/White n/a

3 Brown Earth

4 Blue/White Main Beam

5 Black/yellow 12v Ignition Switch

6 Blue/Green Oil Pressure

7 Brown/Yellow Brake Fluid

8 Blue/Black Fuel Sender

9 Grey/Yellow Lighting circuit

10 Brown Earth

11 Red/White Temperature Sender

12 Black/Green RH Indicators

13 Black/white LH Indicators

 

The new instrument plug had only 12 connectors so I wired them as follows:

 

Pin New Plug Colour Old Loom Colour Circuit

1 Blue/White Blue/White Main Beam

2 Black/Yellow Black/yellow 12v Ignition Switch

3 Brown Green x2 Blue/Green Oil pressure Switch

4 Black/White Black/White LH Indicators

5 Green n/a Rev Counter (used separate cable to Ignition coil +ve)

6 Brown/Wite Red/White Temperature Sender

7 Brown/Black Blue/Black Fuel Sender

8 Black/Green Black/Green RH Indicators

9 Brown/Yellow x2 Brown/Yellow Brake Fluid

10 Blue x2 Blue Alternator

11 Brown Brown Earth

12 Grey/Green Grey/Yellow Lighting circuit

 

Where the new plug had 2 wires for a pin, I just cut off or taped up the unused wire.

 

As can be seen from my earlier post, I fitted a supplementary indicator panel for the indicators, oil pressure and ignition lights.

The indicators were easy, just 'T' off from the wires on the plug, to the LED's and then to earth.

The oil pressure was also easy, providing you remember that the circuit earths through the oil pressure switch. Just take a live supply to the LED than earth it back through the Blue/Green wire on the plug.

 

The difficult one was the ignition light. The standard ignition light on the instument cluster was OK, but I could not get the LED to work properley - it was either on all the time or off all the time.

In the end, I located the Ignition Bulb Holder on the back of the instrument panel and soldered two wires to the hold and ran these to the LED. Now works fine, in tandem with the original ignition light.

 

Hope this is of some help to you.

 

Best of luck.

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