Pinto Guru Request

[Guest Larson250]

Hi All,

 

Help needed!!

 

The other day I tried to start my engine for the first time following a complete rebuild. (2.0 Pinto, with ZX6R carbs)

It ran for about 30 seconds and was very noisy due to no exhaust on at the time. After the engine died I tried to restart again but it just turned over and got slower and slower. I thought the battery had died so charged it over night ready to try again.

The following day I again tried to start it but again it turned a couple of times and would not turn any more.

Thinking it was still the battery I used a starter pack, but still wouldn’t turn over.

I then tried to turn the engine over using a ring spanner on the front pulley, the engine was solid.

Having taken the engine out and stripping it I found that when I undid the big ends the pistons moved freely but the crank was still solid.

To get the crank to turn I had to undo all the main bearings. On inspecting the bearings two have slight scuffing/pitting in places. (these will be replaced along with big end bearings now)

I cannot understand what happened, I’m sure it wasn’t through lack of oil because I coated everything well during the rebuild and the oil level was fine before I started it.

I also followed the Haynes manual.

 

Any ideas appreciated as I don’t want to repeat the same mistake when I rebuild again.

 

Regards,

 

Dean

[Guest scrabster]

hi,did you prime the oil pump before you started it up?

jess.

[thespannerman]

Check your bearing clearances with PLASTI GAUGE on dry run build up of crank and big ends. Check for extra text on back of old main shells. Some pinto's like mine have +0.4 main jornals (Ford line bored some out of tolerance blocks a bit more). +0.4 jornals with standard shells could move on the shell locating peg and pinch the crank (just a thought.) I paid a bit more for heavy duty bearings (piece of mind). Did you check your thrust washer end float? Hope you get sorted.

[philshelton]

dean do you want to see if i can get a couple of members to do a home call?

[Guest Larson250]

I'm sure it wasn't through lack of oil. I would say that the pinching effect as mentioned was most likely.

 

I now need to get new ones, i have the old ones for reference with the numbers.

 

There are a set of heavy duty (Vanderveld?) on e bay for about £85 does this sound about right?

 

Nice car by the way Jess, I was loitering about on Sunday while a guy asked you a load of questions. I heard you say about drilling a small hole in the thermostat, why?. Do they run that hot?

 

Thanks for the replies so far,

 

Dean

[Guest Larson250]

Sorry Phil,

 

Just seen your posting after typing the above.

 

I would be very grateful for any advice.

 

Dean

[thespannerman]

Paid £35.50 mains, £21.96 big ends in 2006. Prime the oil pump with a drill attachment on the pump drive with dizzy removed.

[Guest Nigel Novice]

I always use a Molyslip/Oil mix to build up with, just gives that little extra protection on start up, apart from checking for the overbored main bearing journal/under size bearings, did you clean out the oil ways in the block and crank, usually use pipe cleaners and an airline, also one my mate did was to put the top shell (the one with a hole in) in the bottom and so cut off the oil supply to the bearing, got from Scunny to Stamford before complaining

[philshelton]

I assume all the bearings were fitter lining up with oil holes and main bearing caps the correct way round ie arrow to front of engine?

[Guest Larson250]

I blew all the oil feed pipes out with an airline before putting it all back together.

 

It only ran for 30 secs max, thats why i didn't think it was an oil problem. someone else has told me they would expect at least 5 mins before problems even with no oil.

 

I need to pay more attention with the end float etc. next time.

 

Dean

[Guest scrabster]

I'm sure it wasn't through lack of oil. I would say that the pinching effect as mentioned was most likely.

 

I now need to get new ones, i have the old ones for reference with the numbers.

 

There are a set of heavy duty (Vanderveld?) on e bay for about £85 does this sound about right?

 

Nice car by the way Jess, I was loitering about on Sunday while a guy asked you a load of questions. I heard you say about drilling a small hole in the thermostat, why?. Do they run that hot?

 

Thanks for the replies so far,

 

Dean

drilling the thermostat helps to bleed the air out of the system , if i remember right they can suffer from air lock in the housing.my main concern is with mounting the rad flat instead of upright.but sunday was the farthest ive driven the car so far and all was ok. oh and i changed the rad cap for a 13 psi one the day before.hth.thanks for the comment.

jess.

[johnlrichardson]

did you try turning the crankshaft before fitting the conrods if so was it very tight

 

jon

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Building an engine is a very precise process.

 

Fit the crank doe's it spin ?

 

Fit the 1st piston to the crank..........does it spin ......etc.....etc...

 

Slowly one step at a time........

 

when you get a tight spot give up and have a look.

[Guest Larson250]

Hi Jon,

 

Yes the crank turned when I put it back together, although seemed stiff, I have never done a car engine before so didn't know if it was too tight or right.

 

You live and learn it would seem, but always costs you.

 

Next time Ian I will definiteley take your approach.

 

hey ho,

 

Dean

[Snapperpaul]

Get a book on engine building such as the "How to power tune Ford SOHC" it has lots of tips on tolerances, bearing crush gaps, end float etc.

You can't just buy a set of standard bearings hoping that they will fit, the book even talks about mixing and matching bearing shells to get the right gaps.

The use of plastiguage whilst building is a good tip.

Check, check and check again.