Attention Robin Hood 2b Owners

[series3]

Hi 2B owners!

 

I'm looking to buy a 2B but im not sure what to look out for on this particular model. We currently have a Series 3a and we know about the common issues with this model, such as the cracking of the body etc. Is there any common things to look out for on the 2B model that i should be aware of?

 

Thanks

[Joel]

Assuming you're buying pre-built and not a kit:

 

Most issues you'd come across would be more to do with build quality and setup preferences (the way it runs, rides and handles, etc) rather than any inherent problems in the design - the 2B chassis may not be a lot of things, but it's certainly robust!

 

Having said that, there's a few things to look out for. Off the top of my head...

 

Bottom wishbones can bend if the coil over is mounted too far inboard

Bottom ball joints have been known to unscrew

Zimmeride coil overs don't last long

Don't know much about sliding pillars, but I'd have a thorough check to make sure it's all working

Check for rust on steel bodied cars

 

I'm sure people can add to that list, but otherwise it's just stuff you would normally look out for when buying any car.

[Guest chris brown]

The 2B chassis is pretty much bullet proof the only really week point is the sliding pillar front suspension so go for the wishbone front end also most wishbone modals have coilovers on the rear as well. Also the original Zimmer coilovers don’t last long but are easy to replace with better units.

[speedtripledan]

I,ve got a stainless 2b and yes they are strong i looped it up a 5" curb into ditch and had no damage other than the alloy ! Go for gaz suspension if you can mine works well and corners superbly other than that it if you are buying built look long and hard as there are some really nice ones and some not so nice

 

Dan

[agent_zed]

Hi

ive heard it said that cracking can occur on the rear subframe mounting plate (2 big square plates where the sierra rubber mountings bolt to). Not sure if its just the stainless chassis. I should probably check mine now ive thought of it although i have the mild steel chassis and have also welded the handbrake angle to the sierra subframe and then bolted to the floor and tunnel so should reduce stress in this area.

 

I'd check how the steering is held on. Tricky told people to use a single bracket made of thin steel which allowed for a lot of movement. I just put an identical bracket to another tube to trangulate and stiffen it up. Others ive seen have welded a bracket off the tube. Just might be worth looking at if you can get your head down into the tunnel.

 

HTH

[Knock-on]

I am just converting my 2b to wishbones from sliding pillar. People do live with sliding pillar but those that convert tend to admit that they didn't appreciate the difference until converted. Let me know if you have a sliding Pillar that you want to convert.

 

The standard steering on mine was a Sierra rack although some people use Escort. Am supplying uprated steering brackets for Escort rack and will be doing the same for Sierra to replace the horrid U clamp bolts.

 

Good luck

[Guest Mark Hignett]

Are you using the kit to convert to wishbones or are you building your own set up. I am looking at doing this myself over the next month or two but 500 pounds for the kit seems quite expensive to me and I was wondering if anybody had gone along the Locost type route and made there own?

[Knock-on]

Are you using the kit to convert to wishbones or are you building your own set up. I am looking at doing this myself over the next month or two but 500 pounds for the kit seems quite expensive to me and I was wondering if anybody had gone along the Locost type route and made there own?

 

Hi Mark

 

If you look in the engineering services thread under "Kit Car Related" you will see what we are offering.

 

Currently, we are finalising the prototype to ensure the best performance. Once testing is finished, we will be producing them as a kit.

 

If you are interested, let me know.

 

Regards