Superspec Mt75 Gearbox

[Al Milton]

Hi All,

 

I'm hoping to get the engine running this week (after having the car for nearly 5 years!!). Looking forward to this monumentous event big time!!

 

I think i've freed the clutch (got approx 20mm of movement on the release arm now with the pedal to the floor), is this about right?? The pedal is very heavy, but I understand this is normal (and it has been stood for 5 years).

 

Also the release arm does not return fully, so may have to invest in a clutch return spring. With the release arm fully returned, (by me manually pulling it home), the clutch pedal is level with the brake pedal, which naturally increases the throw of the pedal.

 

I've only got (i think) currently 3 gears (don't know which ones ), but am hoping that with the engine running and able to select some gears, this will free the rest up by getting the cogs lubricated, (filled the gearbox this morning). Where abouts is reverse, fully left or right, up or down?

 

As always, thanks in advance.

 

Cheers

Al

[Longboarder]

20mm on the release arm is huge. You need 10mm.(maybe less) If same range of pedal movement did 10mm you would halve the effort. Clutch cable adjustment is important. Release bearing should be held lightly against diaphragm fingers and if the spring doing this is acting on the pedal then all slack in the system will be taken up.

 

Nigel

[harvs]

Hi Al

 

My gearbox was really stiff at first - I couldn't get any gears. It definitely gets easier once the engine is running (although still requires quite a bit of effort on the gear stick and a few crunching sounds)

 

Good luck with the engine start - it certainly is a mile stone

[Al Milton]

Nigel, thanks for the advice on the clutch setting, i'll adjust properly once I get the return spring fitted. This is the only way I can see for taking the slack out of the system.

 

Harvs, thanks for the confirmation of the gearbox stiffness, i'm always wary of crunching sounds . Just for info Harvs, (and other Rover engined 'Specs) how did you get round the powersteering pump loop problem thing on the T series engine?

I've got a remote reservoir and have mounted this on one of the front crossmembers via a simple bracket. I've connected the inlet to the pump to the outlet from the reservoir temporarily via 15mm heater hose, (this is the pre-connected pipe on the bottom of the pump), will change this once I find some proper hose. The problem is with the pump outlet, what on earth is the thread . It looks like 1/2"BSP, the pump union plug (the red plastic plug), screws into 1/2" BSP female unions very easily, but a corresponding 1/2" male union just will not fit into the pump, spent most of the day fuffing around with this, now i'm stumped and cheesed off

 

Cheers

Al

[harvs]

Hi Al

 

I originally used the pipe from RH along with another pipe inserted in it for the smaller connection. However, on the trip for my IVA test it melted . Luckily only though part of the plastic to the braiding, with the remainder just about holding up!

 

I've now done the same as you, but with a rover reservoir - here's one on ebay: 310092799735. This has the correct size inlet and outlet for the power steering pump. I couldn't get exactly the correct size hoses, so did spend a bit of time with some hose ends in the kettle to soften them up a little

 

For the connector into the pump, the union originally supplied by RH didn't fit my pump. I spoke to Richard (Stewart, then) who sent out the correct one. Might be worth a ring to RH to see if they still have some lying around...