Front Caliper Slider Bolts

[Grizzly]

Hi All,

I've now warped my second set of Brake Discs.

This winter, I'll be replacing the Calipers, Greenstuff pads and new semi-drilled discs.

Does anyone know where I can get the Caliper Slider Bolts from, as I seem to struggling a bit to find them on 'tinternet?

TIA

[Guest Ian & Carole]

Hi Steve

 

These might be worth a call........

 

http://www.biggred.co.uk/fordshop.html

 

Thanks for the PM by the way, looked on his web site last night, but nothing in stock at the moment, he might wind up doing some work on the Beauford for us though.

[Guest mower man]

Hi if you are replacing the calipers don't use the crap std ones ,prise the wallet open a little more get in touch with Hi SPec and obtain apair of 4 pot superlights +268 mm vented discs Green stuffpads braking worries dissapear.Joking apart I have run this setup for 5years + never a worry the set up consists of the above ,drums on the rear ,servo no limiter valve and s/s braided pipes thru ought ,it does it for me and I would not hesitate to raccomend it to any one.One tip make sure that hub and disc mounting faces are CLEAN with NO burrs etc and that NO runout is present sorry if I'm preaching a little but it does make aBIG difference HTH regards mowerman

[Grizzly]

Yes this does help. Thanks.

I'll check Hi Spec out.

[Grizzly]

Jeepers!

 

£680

 

Very nice, but I'm not sure my wallet will stretch that far.

 

Does anyone know if there's a solution somewhere in between a straight replacement of std setup and £680 ?????

 

How about these ? Has anyone got a similair setup?

 

Just off to buy a Lottery Ticket....

[Guest Dan_Beeston]

I use the Powerlites on mine, but it's hard to tell if there is any difference in performance as I only used the original calipers with a servo and the powerlites without!

 

The effective piston area is actually slightly less on the powerlites than the sliding calipers, but the effective disc radius is a little larger. There is probably a calculator on the net somewhere to work out whether this puts you in a better or worse position (larger piston diameter = good, large effective radius = good)

 

I can say they are much lighter than the standard units, whether they are any more resistant to warping???, I dunno.........

[Guest mower man]

Hi Grizzly ok Ibought mine a while ago but I paid under 300 quid inc vat carriage etc for discs pads and calipers ,discs are vented, calipers std silver finish delivered in 3days , I,ll see if Ican dig out the invoice tonight to check and send you a post later regards mowerman

[Bob Tucker]

I have tried to get parts from Hi Spec in the past.

They are close to me so I visited them in person.

Unless you want a complete "pre-designed" standard replacement brake kit, they are not the most knowledgable guys Ive met with. Plus prices are sky high....maybe ok for Max Power types, but us Hoodies need baragains!!

 

If you need to mix n match, Rally Design can design & assembel a one off Wilwood kit & calculate what pistons/calipers/master cylinders/disks you will need allowing for the type/weight of your car.

 

HTH Bob

[Mitch]

Hi Steve,

 

why are your disks warping, mine never had 25K Plus miles and still fine, are they cheap pattern parts? maybe going for a OE supplier maybe better,

Jims warped twice two, cant remember how he solved it, maybe a PM may reveal answer ,

Maybe when you stop after a fasr hard braked run you sat at junction with pedal depresed?,heat need to dissapate quickly, pedal pressed may cause hotspot, (maybe talking *bleep*s LOL)

Also green stuff pads are not the best for our use, thery need heat (and to be hard braked) for them to work well, and in a seven type car this is not always possible, a good quality pad will work just has well

all this talk about high spec brakes and stuff, its not needed, were mostly use standard stuff from the Sierra, if it was designed to stop a fully ladened tintop it should be able to stop ours,

 

HTH Mitch

 

 

HTH

 

Mitch

[steve in stockport]

warping your discs would seem to point to a build up of heat, I take it you've tried all the simple things like a sticking piston or the brake pads being free to move in the caliper? A build up of crap in the seating for the pads or slightly oversize non standard can cause them to stick and not release fully, might be worth running a file over all the contact surfaces between pad and caliper to get a bit of clearance.

 

Agree with Mitch, the standard sierra brakes are designed to stop something much heavier than a hood, so are plenty good enough.

[Grizzly]

Hi Guys,

 

Thanks for all your input.

I agree. The std brakes are designed for stopping a Sierra, but in my experience from days of old running Capris etc, Ford brakes were never the best.

OK if you were light on them but if pushed, prone to playing up. Calipers seizing and discs warping was commonplace.

The calipers on mine have always seemed fine. They've been kept pretty clean, but have never been very good at completley letting go of the rotor.

I was particulary carefull when I put the last lot of discs on to make sure I run them in before getting too heavy with them. I also checked, cleaned a roughed up the pads. Didn't fit new ones though, I must admit.

Heat build up is most likely the probable cause. The title of this topic has been what I've been suspecting next - Slider bolts (maybe sticking somehow and not allowing the calipers to expand properly). The problem is, being as I bought this kit part-started, I don't know of the origins/history of the brakes at all. There's 19,000 miles on them as far as I know anyway.

 

OK. I need new discs, new calipers (including slider bolts) and new pads.

If I stay OE, this is going to set me back probably just under £200 from my local factors (with VAT etc).

I spoke to Rally Design yesterday. You're right Bob, they seemed more clued in than Hi Spec.

They specifically recommended their conversion kit - BK1S.

I'm not too bothered whether the discs are vented or not - I just want them to work and not give me any more hassle.

Greenstuff pads aren't available for Wilwood calipers, but there's a pretty good selection of other pads/compounds nonetheless.

For the conversion kit (with VAT), I'll be forking out circa £350. This'll get me 4 pot calipers, slotted solid discs (257mm - up from 240mm) and pads of my choice. Two plus points: It'll get me away from Uncle Henry's offering and they look pretty darn good IMHO.

Not a Hoody bargain I'll admit, but a price I'm just about prepared to pay.

 

Thanks again to all for you input.

HTH anyone else out there in a similair predicament.

[Grim]

Grizz, before you go out and spend your money, i disagree with your conclusions!!!

 

Vibration through the pedal / steering when braking is most likely not caused by a heat build up and warping of brakes.

It's most likely caused by brake thickness variations in the disc, in turn caused by excessive runout of the disc.

 

Here's some info from the EBC site

Many drivers confuse rotor warping, or warped rotors, with a condition called DTV (disc thickness variation). DTV occurs when a vehicle brakes are serviced and the brake rotor has runout in excess of 0.1mm or 0.004". This runout causes the pads to contact the rotor when the vehicle is being driven "off brake" and after 3-4000 miles, a thin spot develops on the rotor. The rotor runout itself does not actually cause a vibration. It is the effect of the thickness variation of the brake disc or brake rotor under braking that causes pulsation. Even small thickness variations such as 0.01mm will exhibit itself as pulsation. A warped rotor is a very rare occurrence and in 30 years in business, we have seen no genuine cases of warped brake rotors.

 

The general guideline is that if the vibration happens immediately after install, there is a quite severe runout problem that needs looking into. Brake discs or rotors should be mounted on flat smooth rust and dirt free hub flanges without the use of coppaslip which includes small particles which have the same effect as dirt. Remember that even a small particle of 0.001" under the rotor surface can cause a deviation of 0.005-0.010" at the pad contact point.

 

If you have a micrometer, i'd measure discs at various points and see if there is thickness variation first.

I've had this problem a lot, it has little respect for quality discs, pads or calipers!

[Grizzly]

Cheers Andy. Points noted.

I don't get vibration through the pedal or steering shake.

What I do notice is that as you brake to a stop, you can feel the car slowing at differing rates, corresponding to road wheel rotation.

If it not warp, then it could well be DTV as you say

I don't have a micrometer, but I can get one easy enough.

I'll do some measuring.

Thanks again.

[Grim]

ahh yes, I've had that symptom too.

Also worth checking disc runout, especially when fitting new discs, i'm fortunate that i can borrow this equipment from work.

[Grizzly]

Hi All,

 

Had a bit of a Eureka moment last night.

My hubs are powder coated and it occured to me that the chances of the powder coating being uniformally even are probably pretty slim.

I'll inspect further, but reckon that I probably need to remove the powder coating from the hub face where it mates to the disc.

Looked into some sort of runout guage, but they're pretty rare (and expensive).

 

Any thoughts Guys??