The Rebuild Begins!

[Guest The Modfather]

Hi Daz the second drawing is sim to the mounts on my car , the difference my mounts use 4" pipe with a square plate at the bottom bolting to the tub and the top plate welded flush and has a nut welded to make it captive inside the tube works well and also looks nice regards mick

Hi Mick. Thanks for the idea of the captive nut. Was wondering how to get to the top nut, now I know

 

Although the engines weight bears down on the mounts the most force to be resisted is the torque trying to twist the engine around; so in my opinion either mount is O.K. but the horizontal one will be easier to fabricate. Please shoot me down if you disagree folks. Darren you know where a welder is if required.

Hi again Bob. I might just have to take you up on this as my welder probably isn't powerful enough, it's only a 130amp. Bit too small to weld 3mm stock don't you think?

[fry61]

Have done lots of welding with a 100A but penetration is not as good as the 185A I have now;& this is a critical area -- don't want the engine going round & the wheels standing still!!

[Guest The Modfather]

Absolutely not Bob, it could damage the wiring loom!

[Guest The Modfather]

I have decided against using 3mm plate for the engine mounts and will be using 5mm instead. Started to fabricate them last night and didn't like the idea of only having 3mm plate holding the main spar to the engine.

 

I also made an aluminium box for the coil pack to sit on as it doesn't quite reach the bulkhead flat panel

 

 

I also fitted the fuse boxes into the bulkhead, although there will be a fresh sheet of 1mm ali covering the upright part of the bulkhead to hide up all the unsightly holes!

 

 

As well as fitting the relays to the steering shaft stiffeners (for ease of access) as I didn't want too much wiring and electrics on show in the engine compartment, going for the minimalistic look

 

[Guest The Modfather]

I spent a few more hours out in the garage today. Managed to make the engine plates for both sides, drilled through the floor pan to put the transit bobbin mounts through, with a 5 mm plate underneath to stop it being pulled through.

 

 

I made one of the engine stays, cut the angles nicely, and the base plate although I will shape this base plate once it's all welded up, so it looks better.

 

 

 

 

Got as far as making the wooden template for the nearside but I had run out of 2"x1" steel box, so I should get a delivery of some more tomorrow!

 

 

 

Hope to make the nearside stay and bas plate tomorrow, and if I get time I will tack weld it all ready for a more powerful welder to finish the job properly

[Longboarder]

The plate below the engine bay floor is perhaps overkill but leave it in. You need a much larger plate below the bobbin and on top of the floor. The floor is flexible and will exaggerate engine vibration, acting like a sound board.

 

Nigel

[fry61]

Good looking engine mounts,nice & beefy;but are they only bolted to the floor panel? can't see any pick-up to the chassis. Vibration/flexing will have that through the floor in no time without.

[Guest The Modfather]

Hi Nigel.

 

I wont get another plate between the floor and the actual bobbin due to the length of the underside stud, unless I just put 2 x 3mm plates, one either side of the floor pan. Will the suffice?

 

Hi Bob.

 

The floor panel is the chassis. It is the monocoque chassis. Double skinned on the engine floor pan. I've purposely kept the stays long to allow the bobbins to be closer to the outside where the chassis is stronger, although I didn't want mega long ones!!!

I'm thinking Bob to tack weld the parts and bring them over to you and use your 185 welder to finish the job proper if the offer still sits?

 

Regards

 

Darren

[fry61]

Right,unplug the phone & maybe 3rd time lucky. Yes Darren no probs with coming over to use the welder, P.M. to arrange time. Nigel, veiws on -- 3 x 2mm plates either side of floor,each plate slightly larger than preceding,like an old fasioned leaf spring, to spread/soften load. ( could design an aircraft but it would be too solid to fly!!!)

[chris n]

Looking good Darren Even the wooden template looks better than the one we had in there the other Saturday

[Guest marsbar]

Just a little update.

 

Since getting the V6 type 9 box, my old prop was no good due to wrong size thingy-me-bob at the front end, and not enough splines. Graham B has kindly donated the correct shaft and it is now fitted, and the type 9 mated to it.

I have retro fitted the engine back in so that I can size up to fabricate some emgine mounts.

 

I have decided to use Transit bobbin type engine rubbers (very hard rubber sandwiched between two metal plates and a threaded stud either side, similar to old Cortina ones) and was going to drill a hole in the floor pan and a 5mm thick 4"x4" steel plate underneath so that the stud cannot pull through, then have another plate with a hole to go over the top stud, from which I'd weld a 2"x1" 3mm thick steel box section tube up to another 3mm thick plate which will be bolted to the engine. Will this suffice? It has been mentioned that the rubber mount should be angled towards the engine at say a 45deg angle. This would mean making a steel wedge to go between the rubber mount and the floor pan.

 

Here is a Paint design to show you what I mean, although it is not precise hopefully you will get my drift:

 

 

Hi Daz, The Transit ones may be more heavy duty than the Cortina ones, but they will need to be, Dave my son replaced his his Cortina engine mounts 3 months ago, and the are broken already after 3 months and only 250 miles. The pinto that they are attached too does rev above 7000 rpm and develop more than a standard pinto, but it will be less than the power output you hope to achieve, so I don't think they will cope. They seem to twist a lot with the power and rip, can you not adapt the Sierra ones? I know they can cope with the power.

 

Just a thought

 

 

Steve

[Guest The Modfather]

Hi Daz, The Transit ones may be more heavy duty than the Cortina ones, but they will need to be, Dave my son replaced his his Cortina engine mounts 3 months ago, and the are broken already after 3 months and only 250 miles. The pinto that they are attached too does rev above 7000 rpm and develop more than a standard pinto, but it will be less than the power output you hope to achieve, so I don't think they will cope. They seem to twist a lot with the power and rip, can you not adapt the Sierra ones? I know they can cope with the power.

 

Just a thought

 

 

Steve

 

Hi Steve.

 

I've steered away from the pinto ones as one of mine was sheered off at the rubber, and that was with a standard pinto, so I don't trust them either!

I was thinking that if these transit ones can withstand White Van Man then they should (?????) withstand my carefull driving but I appreciate your view, thanks.

 

Chris, do you mean the one that kept falling down? I do prefer working with wood, but not sure it will take the strain The next job will be cutting the sump pan, and I'm really looking forward to that, not!

[Longboarder]

Double up on the support arms. Two 1" square tube each side going to 5mm plate (3mm not thick enough really) each side of engine bay floor. Wider V the better but say 40mm apart at outer ends. Something like the pic. (I can't do laptop touch pads and paint.) If the bobbins don't have enough bolt thread then you need new bobbins.

 

Nigel

[Guest The Modfather]

The plate below the engine bay floor is perhaps overkill but leave it in. You need a much larger plate below the bobbin and on top of the floor. The floor is flexible and will exaggerate engine vibration, acting like a sound board.

 

Hi Nigel. You say that it is overkill, which I agree, so can I put a 3mm plate underneath the tray to replace this 5mm plate, as well as putting another 3mm larger plate (as you suggest) between the bobbin and the inside of the floor pan?

 

Double up on the support arms. Two 1" square tube each side going to 5mm plate (3mm not thick enough really) each side of engine bay floor. Wider V the better but say 40mm apart at outer ends. Something like the pic. (I can't do laptop touch pads and paint.) If the bobbins don't have enough bolt thread then you need new bobbins.

 

Never thought of a "V" design. I can see the benefits. It will also get the bobbin working better I'd imagine.

 

Darren

[Longboarder]

The V design engine supports are what I made for mine. They have proved strong enough over the last four years. I made them too short to extend to the side of the car as I hadn't discovered the flexible engine bay floor at that stage. One day I might get round to remaking them but I do have some strengthening under the floor. I put a sub chassis of 1" tube and angle from front to back of the car including gearbox support under the floor pan during the initial built as there were early reports of mono chassis cracking at various points.

3mm plate would probably be OK but all you have for the bobbin stud to go through should be two bits of 5mm plate sandwiching two sheets of 1mm stainless forming the floor. That's only 12mm. Plus a nylock and washer comes to a stud length needed of about 25mm. The studs on the bobbin are not shorter than that are they?

 

Nigel