Programmable Ignition System Mk2 - An Electronics Kit!

[ibrooks]

In the photo of the mixture sensor module have you seen the mistake?

 

Suppose that answers Mowerman's question about how easy they are to assemble. If you can tell red from yellow you should be OK.

 

Iain

[GambolGold]

I just want to verify something here.

I believe I have a pre 1987 distributor - Bosch inductive discharge. Is this correct (photos below)?

 

 

 

Am I right in thinking this is an amplifier (called an electronic ignition module in Haynes)?

:

I am thinking of bunging (i.e. skillfully connecting with reliable automotive connectors) my completed kit between the two components: distributor and 'electronic ignition module' - of cause disabling the bob-weights. (I like Longboarders idea of doing away with the dizzy altogether by the way, but that will have to come later on for me).

Is my little plan sound so far?

Thanks for reading this and regards.

[Grim]

i wouldn't bother - you already have electronic ignition - there are no bob weights to disable/points to remove. The only this you'ld be changing is the vac advance to an electronic version of the same thing, which doesn't seem any benefit to me.

 

(this is unless you're seriosuly tuining yourengine and would prefer a mappable system)

[GambolGold]

Yes, you've got it, I'd like a mappable system and somthing more accurate than the current mechanical vacuum advance.

Thanks for your interest.

By the way Grim has told me things about my system I did not know, does anyone know a reliable source of information so I can read up on my existing system, such as how the advance works with no bob-weights etc?

[Grim]

there's a hall effect sensor (top right of your second photo) which sends an engine speed signal to the electronic control box, which alters the advance as needed.

The vac advance works on top of that, as per a mechanical dizzy.

[Longboarder]

There are so many systems that it's confusing what has what features and what each electronic box does. With the inductive system which you have the dizzy uses both mechanical advance bob weights and vacuum to control timing and the amplifier is just that and does not modify spark timing. Having said that the inductive ignition is simple, accurate, not very prone to wear, reliable and probably the easiest and best of the ford systems to fit and use. Your system should run off that dizzy but you will need to disable the bob-weights and vacuum advance mechanism.

(I like Longboarders idea of doing away with the dizzy altogether by the way, but that will have to come later on for me).

I think I said I could see possibility of cam wheel driven timing signal for accuracy with 3D mapping from the electronics but you can't replace the dizzy which is still needed to distribute the HT sparks (and drive the oil-pump).

 

Nigel

[GambolGold]

Before I start putting hot solder anyway near anything that resembles part of a car, I need to make sure I'm following the right diagram. I have 6 circuit diagrams for different ignition set-ups. My distributor has 2 wires coming out of it and therefore I am inclined to believe it is actually a Bosch inductive discharge system. This is contrary to what Grim said, but then he did not know the number of wires as my photo did not include this detail unfortunately. The Hall effect sensor requires three wires. Am I right so far?

The circuit diagram options are given the following headings:

 

A. Points or ignition module version (one trigger input "from points or ignition module")

B. Engine management trigger version (one "trigger signal 0-5V")

C. Reluctor version (two inputs)

D. Hall effect / Lumenition version (three inputs)

E. Crane optical version (three inputs to do with LEDs' and photodiodes)

F. Piranha optical version (three inputs to do with LEDs' and photodiodes)

 

Which one should I choose? I eliminate E and F because those are optical. I eliminate D. (?) because its a Hall effect system. I'm left with A, B and C. C, the Reluctor has two wires, but so could the others if I wired wire two to the chassis.

Any help to source the required information will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

[Longboarder]

I still think it's an inductive dizzy. As such it should have both vacuum advance which you can see and bob weights which you can feel if you twist the rotor arm while holding the lower gear wheel. Wires are black unused earth and a purple and orange or a green/yellow and a black/red and the biggest round plug in the world for two piddly wires.

The motorcraft unit mounted on an ally baseplate is also typical of the inductive amplifier and has six wires.

 

Nigel

[GambolGold]

Apparently, because its an inductive discharge type of distributor (which sounds confusingly similar to 'inductive ignition system'), it has a 'reluctor', the four-pronged magnetic bit that rotates. It is therefore also referred to as a 'reluctor distributor'. (The bits that create the signal are also called an 'inductive type pulse generator' too).

 

Yep, you guessed it: I've been reading books today ('The Bosch Automotive Handbook' & 'Automobile Electrical and Electronic Systems') - oh and got some help form the Everyday Practical Electronics forum people too!

 

So now I know which diagram to follow in the instructions.

 

I'll let you know how I get on.

[Foz]

Well, I've read all the magazine articles, read all the posts, pondered, studied and wondered .......... and just ordered a kit myself !!

I'm still not 100% sure about it but we'll give it a go and see what happens. How difficult can it be ??????????

[Guest snotfart]

hello can you post a link to the Everyday Practical Electronics forum

thanks

dave

[GambolGold]

hello can you post a link to the Everyday Practical Electronics forum

thanks

dave

Hi,

Its good to be back. I've been working on the ignition kit intermittently and have got as far as fixing the circuit board in the box. Just a few items of caution - obvious to some people reading this, but were not obvious to me when I started sand therefore may be useful to others at my level of experience and skill:

 

1. mark out the circuit-board-fixing-holes in the bottom of the aluminium box before you start to solder any components as the board will lie flat on the box surface and holes can be marked more accurately.

2. Watch out for three-pinned components. They caught me out. I'd soldered one in the wrong place and had to remove it to correct the error.

3. The wire colours seem to be different in the kit to the diagrams. You might want to buy 'correct' coloured wires too.