Vauxhall C20xe Redtop In A 2b Who Has One

[Bob Tucker]

Hi Stuart,

Coolman rad is fine in mine, even on track days & LeMans scorchers.

My engine plates are 8mm & not bent yet....you need a short tube spacer behind one bolt cant remember which one.

I made an adjuster from angle with a welded plate each end. Length will depend on your installation.

 

You're gonna love it!

[Guest ickle]

ye i am starting to get excited now .. i have been ordering some engine bling already lol

 

so do you run without header tank to ?

can you remember if you had a pot or a flat flywheel ??

i have a pot at the mo and not sure if to try and source a flat

 

thanks again stuart

[Bob Tucker]

No header tank, flat (early) flywheel, severely lightened (maybe a bit too much)....I even have to blip the throttle changing up..!

[Longboarder]

This thread is no good without PICTURES!

[Guest ickle]

I will get pics up soon

I now have my welded big wing sump and bellhousing thanks to yurk speed

He recomends throwing away the rubber sump gasket and baffle and using just a cork gasket?

What you guys think?

 

I have also threaded the back of my head to 1/2" bsp not sure if to cap it or try get a 90 degree bend onto it and put it to the heater box

 

Regards stuart.

[steve in stockport]

Vauxhall sump gaskets, you've got to love 'em!

I've tried all sorts of combinations and finally got a seal with the double cork set up and baffle plate that is standard on the red top and loads of the modern 'instant gasket' goo.

Block upside down on the engine stand, layer of goo on the bottom of the block, first cork gasket, layer of goo, baffle plate, layer of goo, cork gasket, layer of goo, sump.

Don't forget you'll need slightly shorter bolts to stop them bottoming out if you're not using the alloy sump, and loctite them in, or they'll vibrate loose.

Leave for at least 24 hrs and you'll have a nice dry sump joint.

[Guest ickle]

Cheers again steve i will give this a shot

I thought it would be silly getting rid o the baffle

 

 

Regards stuart

[Guest ickle]

ok guys hints and tips for mounting i see steve says front to be 6.5" above top chassis rails

but not sure on getting the gearbox/bellhousing straight any help much appreciated

 

i can see along the tunnel and when straight ish the bellhousing hits the top of tunnel

also should the gearbox / bellhousing be even along the sides of the tunnel ??

 

thanks again for any help

stuart

[steve in stockport]

I'm pretty certain that I had to raise the top of the tunnel by about 1.5 inches to stop it fouling the bolts.

Also had to move the tunnel side outwards about an inch on the drivers side and cut off a lug that stuck out on that side of my bellhousing, this let the engine and box sit central and straight - still very tight with about a quarter inch between bellhousing and tunnel side

[Bob Tucker]

had to use a gurt big manchester screwdriver on the drivers tunnel side lol

No problem at the tunnel top, but no hope at all of removing any bellhousing bolts with the engine fitted.

Bob

[Longboarder]

Still no good without pictures!

[Bob Tucker]

Sorry Nigel....

 

It looks like this...

[Longboarder]

I was expecting something other than a pic of the manchester screwdriver.

 

Nigel

[steve in stockport]

OK pictures for Nigel and Stuart

First one shows the engine sitting at an angle over to the nearside

[steve in stockport]

The bellhousing showing the lug on the offside/driver's side that needed removing and the overlap on the tunnel top