Emerald Mapping

[knights_templar]

to be honest, I don't know, I've have had to adjust the pairs, most setups I've seen, but adjustment of individual throttles is rarer and usually achieved by adjusting on one throttle.

 

there is a procedure but I will have to get to a manual to remind myself of it.

 

my guess is you set all the bypass screws the same position (in till bites out a set angle or turns) then wind back tick-over, as mentioned above, set mechanically, and only touch air bypass on one throttle per bank.

 

best advise at 00:08, check your manual, and start afresh

 

good night

[Guest mcramsay]

I f

[Guest mcramsay]

I found this link to a jenvey manual

http://www.jenvey.co.uk/index2.php?page=shop.getfile&file_id=577&product_id=1584&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

 

So taking from this you get things as near as you can with the cross linkage adjustment between and then use the idle bleed screws for fine tuning. I will spend a few hours going over the basics tomorrow and hopefully will have the car ticking over smooth. Which I've had before... Before the inlet had to come off!!

[Longboarder]

Can I ask which manifold to cylinder head gasket you are using. The ford one may contain channels which connect all inlet ports. They were part of the crankcase pressure relief system.

 

Nigel

[Guest mcramsay]

http://www.kitspares.co.uk/shop/item.php?cat=6&product=4767&catsub=0

 

the gasket is identical to the one shown on the GBS website above. i cannot remember any channels linking the ports. i have had the engine running a lot better than it is now, i will definatley have another play today and see how i get on.

[Longboarder]

Agreed. That looks fine.

Always save the original map and make a note of the settings. Then after you have 'tuned it' you can reload the original to get it working again.

About emerald. The system allows you to be very accurate so details matter. If the original map is for 2.8 bar then set your fuel pressure to 2.8 or correct the map to your fuel pressure. Etc. Ditto injector flow rates. Set all the sensors particularly TPS and engine coolant temp sensor to accurate figures. If you havent got the correct figures for the CTS then you can invent a working graph. What temp is it in the garage today. About 5C. What does your CTS say before you've run the engine. It should be about 5C, yes. Run the engine up to temp for 15 minutes. CTS should say about 90C. So there is a usable graph. straight line between them. OK get an accurate calibration asap for better running. Make sure the lumps of metal are correctly assembled and all working properly. Fit new plugs. Balance the throttle bodies accurately.

Only then can you start with the mapping.

 

Nigel

 

I fancy a trip out. (Only did 100 miles yesterday and that was without bailing out the plug valley. Cars been down at dads for 3 weeks but started first time) If you think it might help I can come up this afternoon/evening if you pm me your address and when you're home.

[knights_templar]

Which I've had before... Before the inlet had to come off!!

 

interesting, so it went wrong after you did this, may be a clue?

 

both GBS maps were created with a adjustable pressure regulator set at 3 bar, Emerald ECU temp sender, Emerald ECU air temperature sender, Emerald TPS and the injectors from the Zetec GBS supply, so you shouldn't have to touch anything in the ECU setup except calibrate TPS.

 

as said before, idle stabilization was put in to smooth tick-over but has latter proved to be problematic in some situations, try with it on and off.

 

both maps run most engines fine out of the box, however the emissions map MAY need "tweaking" to suit each vehicle for IVA, especially with Jenvey's most likely because they mount the injectors away from their originally designed position.

 

as recommended clean map, switch of everything you touched in firmware including Lambda, back to basics.

 

have fun, keep posting

[Guest mcramsay]

Longboarder, thanks for the offer! i really appreciate it, unfortunately today is not good for me, i normally finish work at 1 in the afternoon and have the whole day to myself. but ive been called back in on nightshift tonight, so i finished at 12 and back in at half 7 for a 12 hour night shift!! great..... haha but it does give me a a few hours in the garage this afternoon. who needs sleep when there are throttle bodies to balance eh!

[Longboarder]

No probs.

 

nigel

[Guest mcramsay]

had another go at balancing and resetting the map back to basics. the wideband is still on but purely for information purposes. its not telling the ecu to do anything. its still runnning as rich as hell, but its seems alot smoother. zetecs do like new plugs dont they.

 

[Guest mcramsay]

i just noticed that its saying the air temperature in my garage is 30 degrees....that is a load of rubbish. i wonder if the heat from the engine is traveling up the metal plate that holds the sensor and making it give a false reading...time to do some investigating

[Longboarder]

Air temp sender should be mounted in airflow and not on the filter backplate due to this heat soak effect. As a temporary work around just neutralise any correction in the air temp graph. Set all air temp corrections to 0. A flat graph. Air temp corrections are usually tiny anyway in any map for UK.

 

Just looked at the new video and that is much better balance. In theory two of the air bleed screws should still be closed. Only one is moved on each pair of bodies and the linkage balance screw. Fuel pressure looked to be about 2.5bar. Is that right. Have you reduced pressure to lean it off. Probably a bad idea as injector spray pattern deteriorates if you go to low for your injectors.

 

If the overall map is much too rich then the most efficient and quickest way to change it is to reduce the Microseconds per bit figure by steps of 4 on the injection map scale screen. Remember this leans off the whole map and might make it dangerously lean at the top end under power. However it will be safe looking at its effects on idle.

 

Nigel

[knights_templar]

that sounds better

 

now try the emissions map, should tick-over like that.

[Guest mcramsay]

Some progress, after moving the temp sensor it dropped by 15 degrees and after a little trimming of the injection the engine would sit pretty much bang on where I set the lambda target. Then I put it in closed loop for the lower load sites up to around 2500 rpm and the lambda value stayed bang on target! All much better now! The exhaust still seems to be a bit sooty on hard throttle and the cat gets roasting when revving, should it get so hot? Finally, I take it just because the air fuel ratio is now correct that doesn't mean it will pass emissions? If I can get my friendly garage to let me use their gas tester how to I go about getting the CO and PPm in spec?

[knights_templar]

you may be thinking of a different type of sensor longboarder

 

Emerald are happy with theirs mounted in air, not airflow.

 

you want ambient air temp in the engine bay, air flow will have a cooling effect, which will leave enrichment on longer