Jump to content

knights_templar

Community user
  • Content Count

    1,182
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

knights_templar last won the day on November 15 2016

knights_templar had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

125 Excellent

3 Followers

About knights_templar

  • Rank
    Wheely good builder!

Previous Fields

  • Car type
    zero
  • Full name
    simon

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    uk

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Have you changed the fork pivot?
  2. Some flight gauges had a damper issue, I understand its a circuit in the guage, and can be adjusted. Problem is getting into the guage is destructive, but Smiths (CAV) did do a few FOC, have a word with them, may depend on where you got them and how long you have had them
  3. Finding two loose bolts would make me a little concerned. Did they have any other lock system, although obviously ineffective, such as spring or star washers? IVA requires locking devices on on all nuts and bolts unless thread lock is used and the bolt marked as such. Would a spanner check be prudent?, as you did not build the car, although in the builders defence there are bits on the car that have a tendency to have "issues". For example the Mazda rear hub to the lower rear wishbone, if you find that loose, come back to me, it may not just be a case of re tightening.
  4. If you havent I would also put some large flat washers on the bolts before going through the chassis plate, may be considered belt and braces but the more you support the plate the better. I think you will be safe to use the speed sensor in its current position.
  5. That should sort the speedo, but If the diff is moving, other problems will develop. The diff hangs on bolts from the cross member under the boot floor, but a lot acceleration and overrun forces are taken by the two bolts to the right of the diff front casing. On the donor vehicle these bolt held the diff to the torque beam that ran from a mount at the back of the gearbox, making the diff and gearbox one unit. The zero uses a plate on the chassis, to hold the nose of the diff, but it must be fitted with two HT bolts through the original torque beam bolt holes. the diff should fit flush with the chassis bracket, some have dowels that can stop the diff fitting flush, these need removing, bolts should be fitted with body washers. If this is not done the chassis bracket can flex allowing the diff drive flange to lift on acceleration and drop on deceleration.
  6. your speedo sensor should be mounted above the diff/prop flange, if it isn't that's your problem, if it is the diff is moving. You can use the pulse from the gearbox pickup if it is electronic, you just need to know the number of pulses per revolution to program the speedo head
  7. I suspect your diff is moving, it will continue to take out sensors, and possibly do damage to the chassis and or diff unless you secure it. changing to GPS or gearbox sensor will stop the speedo issue, but you have the makings of a greater problem.
  8. If they are standard bushes the tubes are only mild steel, and can rust if not greased well. and yes they will then act like files. You can replace like for like with GBS ones, or there is another alternative, but not cheap, but they use stainless steel tubes, I can help with the price if you are interested, because that is what do now. PM me
  9. my thoughts to, how have they failed?
  10. Yes you do cut it. depends on the sump you are using as to how mutch. Use only the GBS engine and gearbox mounts. https://mega.nz/#!3hZRkKIS!Gy1Ov7Ab7JyGGunwS-9DNQpWRxRNf9B6wBNoGQWIeJI https://mega.nz/#!2sY1WCoY!OIdckCfGHBJxcAOdwav_D4ngr3kh299RDfMYMEpGirs Sorry the pictures are at different orientations.
  11. You need to know the manual, because th testers have their own interpritation 4. The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit (see alternatives in Notes 3 and 4). That is the rule, the alternatives are in notes 3 and 4 note 4 says Note 4: Either of the following scenarios will also be considered acceptable:  The rear fog lamp(s) may continue to operate until the position lamps are switched off, and the rear fog lamp(s) must then remain off until deliberately switched on again or,  An audible warning, additional to the mandatory telltale light, must be activated if the ignition is switched off or the ignition key is withdrawn and the driver's door is opened, whether the lamps in (RS4) are on or off, whilst the rear fog lamp switch is in the "on" position. but it is only an alternative if you do not comply to main item 4. Challange it, they are obliged to give a reason for fail, so why does it not meet item 4.
  12. You can fit it but it is not neccesary for IVA Just that the rear fog only works on dip beam and there is a warning light to show its on
  13. From memory, which I conceed is failing, 13021, assuming you are picking up on the prop bolts. It will not be exact. just lift and chock the vehicle safly and run it up through the gears to 70 mph, reading should be steady. IVA tester always set the ones I took, during test.
×
×
  • Create New...