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knights_templar

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Everything posted by knights_templar

  1. yes, it's the predecessor of the factory dash loom
  2. Think I know what you are doing. If you plan it you don't need four wires to one point Old pics, but hopefully you will get the idea https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yjxg4x6mkbrqwbe/AADr_DsCoHX7l_08ALMk3cnqa?dl=0
  3. plugs first, the zetec enamels them up very quickly
  4. As long as it's all set up correctly, in theory it should sort its self out.
  5. Why is you throttle not giving full movement, it should, the standard set certainly should, so that could do with fixing. You must set it O% to full throttle, particularly if you are using the maps from GBS. You will also need to calibrate the map to the throttle, or they will be out throughout the map. I have a procedure somewhere if you need it, or I can team viewer in, can usually get it about right If you don't the map will be out, even if the TPS is calibrated Simon
  6. you feel you need a cup holder? I would consider if you need a high performance sports car.
  7. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ilk94wicgli40xu/vicki_green_pinto_wiring_loom.pdf?dl=0
  8. At block connector under the wing. green violet to + of high level Black to - of high level
  9. This was a common miss interpretation of the manual, that came about when I was taking cars for IVA. The ministry added note 4, and immediately it was interpreted, that you had to have auto off rear fog lights. Auto off for rear fog lights was not required back then, and I can see nothing that makes it a requirement now. The manual says 4. The rear fog lamp(s) must only illuminate when dipped beam, main beam or front fog lamps are lit (see alternatives in Notes 3 and 4). Notes 3 and 4, the one that mentions auto off, are alternatives, so you can have them if you wish,
  10. I should claim copy right infringement.
  11. Hi Does the scuttle have the pre cut holes for the screen brackets? If So https://www.dropbox.com/s/wctjey9hf0d7guj/2013-02-06 15.44.52.jpg?dl=0 Get kit https://www.dropbox.com/s/30ar21imqpzqxyc/EXTWPS2_IMG_2681.jpg?dl=0 Fit kit https://www.dropbox.com/s/45gsnuy1ev66d9e/IMG_5849.JPG?dl=0 Sorry, still looking for measurement to cut tube, think they are in the manual somewhere Mod wiper arms https://www.dropbox.com/s/dl8pm4g7rv757q7/wiper arm build.docx?dl=0 Shout if you need anything else Regards
  12. Careful with engine mounts, I have seen to MT75 bell housings crack where the gearbox and or engine mounts have been changed for a different mount to the Zero standard. I would talk to Richard
  13. I'm surprised they kept it open so long, I was really the only one interested in it, can not remember any input from others accept Ruth. I did start a google groups as backup, but Groups died a while back, and life has just got in the way, less time available for long explanations on the forum, and the questions dried to a trickle anyway. I still have all the info, but after nearly four years, it's not going to be that up to date, although it appears to have taken most of that time, and nearly two years, whilst I was there, for the "new" Zero to appear so maybe not that far out of da
  14. The make of the tool matters less than using the right tool for the right task, and possible the ability to use them. Seen some huge tool boxes with lots of shinny spanners, but they are of no use if the biggest spanner is the owner. Just my opinion of course, but 47 year in the motor trade, does have an effect on you
  15. Have you changed the fork pivot?
  16. Some flight gauges had a damper issue, I understand its a circuit in the guage, and can be adjusted. Problem is getting into the guage is destructive, but Smiths (CAV) did do a few FOC, have a word with them, may depend on where you got them and how long you have had them
  17. Finding two loose bolts would make me a little concerned. Did they have any other lock system, although obviously ineffective, such as spring or star washers? IVA requires locking devices on on all nuts and bolts unless thread lock is used and the bolt marked as such. Would a spanner check be prudent?, as you did not build the car, although in the builders defence there are bits on the car that have a tendency to have "issues". For example the Mazda rear hub to the lower rear wishbone, if you find that loose, come back to me, it may not just be a case of re tightening.
  18. If you havent I would also put some large flat washers on the bolts before going through the chassis plate, may be considered belt and braces but the more you support the plate the better. I think you will be safe to use the speed sensor in its current position.
  19. That should sort the speedo, but If the diff is moving, other problems will develop. The diff hangs on bolts from the cross member under the boot floor, but a lot acceleration and overrun forces are taken by the two bolts to the right of the diff front casing. On the donor vehicle these bolt held the diff to the torque beam that ran from a mount at the back of the gearbox, making the diff and gearbox one unit. The zero uses a plate on the chassis, to hold the nose of the diff, but it must be fitted with two HT bolts through the original torque beam bolt holes. the diff should fi
  20. your speedo sensor should be mounted above the diff/prop flange, if it isn't that's your problem, if it is the diff is moving. You can use the pulse from the gearbox pickup if it is electronic, you just need to know the number of pulses per revolution to program the speedo head
  21. I suspect your diff is moving, it will continue to take out sensors, and possibly do damage to the chassis and or diff unless you secure it. changing to GPS or gearbox sensor will stop the speedo issue, but you have the makings of a greater problem.
  22. If they are standard bushes the tubes are only mild steel, and can rust if not greased well. and yes they will then act like files. You can replace like for like with GBS ones, or there is another alternative, but not cheap, but they use stainless steel tubes, I can help with the price if you are interested, because that is what do now. PM me
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