Removing 2B Front Arches

[maccavvy]

they are the exact ones I have, im sure I paid less than that though ,cant remember where I got em from now.

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

Nice one cheers. I'll give them a go in that case.

[fry61]

6 pieces of flat bar, around 25/30mm x 6mm drill holes in each end & use 3 pieces to make a triangle the sides of which are closer than the spring diameter. One at top of spring one at bottom connected by M8/10 threaded bar, tighten each thread a bit at a time. Spring can't possibly escape as it's enclosed in a steel cage.

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

6 pieces of flat bar, around 25/30mm x 6mm drill holes in each end & use 3 pieces to make a triangle the sides of which are closer than the spring diameter. One at top of spring one at bottom connected by M8/10 threaded bar, tighten each thread a bit at a time. Spring can't possibly escape as it's enclosed in a steel cage.

 

Thanks, I've already ordered the motorcycles ones but if there's any problem with them then I'll be doing this. Sounds cheaper and safer than the commercial options...

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

Maccavvy, the motorcycle compressors did the job perfectly (so far)

 

Now it's in bits though, it's raised a couple more questions as these things usually do....

 

Firstly, is the deterioration of the rubber that the springs sit on of any concern:

 

 

 

Secondly, this bearing from the top is shot. Can anyone tell me where to get a replacement?

 

 

 

Lastly, the spring is now on the garage floor, still compressed with some chunky cable ties around the compressors. I'm not sure if I should decompress it now so that I can tackle the other side or leave it compressed. Am I making a load of extra work and safety issues if I decompress and the compress again later to fit it again?

 

Oh, one last thing. Now I have the arch bracket off, I see that it's about 3mm thick steel. I have some knocking around and was thinking of copying the shape and welding the new bit to the old bit underneath to effectively make it 6mm thick. Is that sufficient for it to hold@?

 

Cheers!

[fry61]

On your very last point,is the bracket 3 x 25/30mm flat bar? If so I would do as you suggest ,beef it up with a second strip fused to the first. BUT with the following modifications -- once away from the hub fixings, taper the second piece on both sides (to resemble a tall Xmas tree) the point be just short of the mudguard section & join to original bracket; this will give an increasing amount of spring to the bracket taking the stress out of the fixing point. Florin's brackets are 3 x 30 & 3 x 30 tapered & silver-soldered together stainless steel, have lasted for 21K so far.

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

Thanks Florin, here's the bracket at the moment:

 

 

 

Do you mean to taper it like this...?

 

 

 

I had actually already created a whole bottom plate (the part including the hole). Are you suggesting that 2 tapered pieces of bar would be better?

 

So mine is like this (not welded yet)

 

[fry61]

Sorry mate,not only wrong tree -- wrong forest.; your pics show brackets attached to the wing TUBE!!! Florin's brackets are flat strip from hub fixing all the way to wing with the added dart of s/soldered strip added to give progressive stiffness towards hub. Please ignore all of above post, I should have asked for pics first.

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

No worries, mine are actually tubes all the way to the wing I think, and then the tube bends round at a right angle where the wing screws to it. No problems in that area thankfully.

 

It's where the tube meets the bit with the round hole in it which sits under the spring which keeps breaking (on both sides).

 

Hopefully doubling the thickness of that plate with the round hole in it will make it strong enough. I'm no engineer though so my usual solution is just to make it bigger, I'm sure there is a more elegant and durable option though.

[fry61]

Yes, IMO the brackets you have transmit all the "waggle" of the wing to a point where it can waggle no more; so a stress fracture is the result. Thicker will make it more resistant though.

[maccavvy]

Ah the joys of sliding pillar... make the bottom plate thicker . then put some triangle fillets in too as per your 2nd pic and you should be fine.i also made my plate a little wider at the spring platform bit too

 

Im taking that rubber is the bump stop. the pics don't show it the best,its one of those while its off and in pieces do all the jobs so you don't have to do it again.theres nothing specific ,some sort of universal one will do fine.

 

As per the bearing I don't know what to use.tazzmann could be your guy for that ,maybe worth trying gbs or even a local specialist bearing place

 

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

Cheers Maccavvy, I read in another thread that the bearing is a stanard Sierra part from the top of the suspension strut. Looks different to me but I guess I'll give it a shot - might fit either way

[Guest evildave]

Any updates on your sliding pillar rebuild?

[Guest Dave Skirrow]

I did one side. Double the thickness of the arch bracket at the bottom and stuck loads of weld to the corner which I then ground to a wedge shape. Hardly professional but it seems to have done the job.

 

Also removed the bottom stud on the sliding pillar and retapped to a larger size as suggested.

 

Not got round to the other side yet as that arch feels quite solid. It'll get done eventually, hopefully before it fails...

[maccavvy]

Exactly the same here. Done one side but still not mega.

Looking to do both symmetrically this winter and a lot stronger