O/heating Issues Pinto

[Guest mower man]

I was thinking last night [yes Iknow its dangerous] there has been a rash of o/heat probs of late ,in an attempt to ease my own issues with this I fitted a bleed valve into the pipe which runs from thermo hsg to heater if you have one and onto inlet manifold it seemed to help ,at present I am playing with non water coolant and don't want to be squirting the stuff from air locks etc so having filled the rad and system as normal plus squeazing hoses etc next step is to remove bleed valve and fill demister /heater from there and refit hope fully avoiding air locks and coolant being ejected, any thoughts any one , the heater is marginaly higher than the rad [no more than 1" but has in the past given probs with air locks . the bleed valve is made up from 15mm plumbing parts inc anice brass valve afits nicely in the std hose its placed at the rear of the cambox and sois above rad hieght . Come on if you see probs let me know asap . Further info on coolant when and if it prooves good mower man

[Snapperpaul]

16mm heater pipe should go from pump via heater to inlet manifold not Thermostat housing

I have plastic T piece fitted found on eBay and it is this that I bleed air from and do final top up

The only real way to insure no air lock is to fit a header tank with fluid level higher than water jacket in the head and higher than any pipes

The 2mm hole drilled in thermostat to allow air bleed is also a help

[Guest davidimurray]

I have a rover 25 header mounted in front of the scuttle as high as I could get it. Water level in the tank is about level with the top of the can cover. I also have a pipe from the thermostat elbow bleed connected to the top of the header tank. This setup self bleeds itself which is great wen messing around with the system.

[Guest peter2b2002]

could it be running a bit lean?

peter2b

[Guest mower man]

16mm heater pipe should go from pump via heater to inlet manifold not Thermostat housing

I have plastic T piece fitted found on eBay and it is this that I bleed air from and do final top up

The only real way to insure no air lock is to fit a header tank with fluid level higher than water jacket in the head and higher than any pipes

The 2mm hole drilled in thermostat to allow air bleed is also a help

My apologies you are correct pump to heater to inlet manifold seniliity is my excuse mower man stat is drilledjust wondered realy about the top up bit and you seem to do it the way I was looking so will try it, more when I have run it

[Guest Gargoil]

Can I ask why you are using none water coolant, Mower man?

I have seen and heard of the stuff myself but are you using it because of cooling difficulties or just because you are interested in seeing if it works?

[Bob Tucker]

We use redline water wetter in Ray's Vette.

Cooling has always been a problem, it ran on the edge at 250 degrees F.

It now runs at 230.

[Snapperpaul]

My digi native solution

So far

I fitted an original Coolman but this had a big dent in the bottom from what looked like a jack, it worked better than the original Cortina rad but eventually leaked

I noted that the GBS Coolman had less tubes so went for a Boston radiators 42 twin core

I then fitted a Westfield T piece with cap in the 16mm heater feed to manifold, fitted the

82 degree thermostat and drilled it

Fitted the inline fan switch to top hose and the largest fan that would fit on the front of the rad

I lifted the rear of the bonnet 5 mm to let hot air out and double wrapped the manifold

So far this is good

I also have 16 row oil cooler and thermostatic take off

The only other jobs would be to blank off the space round the radiator forcing all the air through and fitting a pull fan to the rear

[Guest Gargoil]

The only other jobs would be to blank off the space round the radiator forcing all the air through and fitting a pull fan to the rear

 

I have just done this. I have blanked off the space above the radiator (the bottom bit of the radiator requires a lot more work and thought) and fitted a pull fan.

The fan now means at slow speeds and idle, temps are kept down to whatever level you want. The biggest difference has been the blanking though. With the fan attached to the radiator, temperatures slightly increased on the move, probably because the fan acted as a blanking plate, all be it a small one. However as soon as I fitted a blanking plate above the radiator, forcing the air through it as well as below it, temperatures sank. So much so that I thought i might be over cooling. Unfortunately at the top end (70mph and above) I still have issues. That I intend to address with a new radiator. At the moment just the normal kit radiator installed. Modelled on the Cortina radiator I have found a guy on Ebay who can supply uprated radiators with exactly the same plumbing but with more or bigger cores. Less cost than the Kit Spares item, too. Once installed I hope all will be well and will be happy to recommend source of the radiator. Hopefully this will point towards a solution for others going through similar problems.

[maccavvy]

I used to have a cortina rad .sacked it off and fitted an alloy honda civic one.unless stood in traffic the fan rarely cuts in.this is without the nosecone baffled to direct air through it.im going to fit a bigger fan on the rad though but ive had to remount it for fan to water pump issues

[Guest mower man]

Ihave had cooling issues in the past and sacked the orig cortina thing for a one off found in a rad repair shop supposedly made upfor a kit car owner who never picked it up ,big top and bottom tanks 4 rows of tubes supposedly for capri2.0 never found its true dad, ok for 5/6 years but temps going up and sluggish flow so its been replaced with an alloy rad made for a mk1/2 rs 2000 should be 40% better heat movement . I have been interested in the non water bit for a while but the Evans one seemed very expensive ,you have to use a preconditioner so it was going to be over 100£ to fill it ,so did some resarch and found that John Deere tractor and machinery use the stuff I am about to try ,it does mean carrying stuff for topup [you should not add water ],if itwill keep 250hp + tractors running its got to be worth a try hasnt it ? should know more this week as afterwinter rebuildshould be done and it can be fired up it runs 2 lectric fans switched by a an adj control the sender pushes between the radtubes and the fans pull air not push,and main area of ducting is at the top to make sure air passes through the core,the bonnet is vented as are the side panels . I dont like to see temps above 95 c much pref 85/90 it did work ok [just] in france in 85/90 heat going to lemanbut Im hoping to improve on that as hp has gone up from prob 105 to a tested 145 ish please dont rush out and follow with the coolant it's an unknown at pres ,Tractor may know more ,my supplier is an ag contractpr running some heavy machinery and swears by the stuff more later next week mower man :crazy:

Edited March 23, 2014 by mower man

[Guest busby]

Hi I have waterless coolant in my zero since last October no problems, removed radiator cap at full temp no pressure in system and temprature has been ok hope info helps

[Guest mower man]

Hi well got the rad fitted added some new hose from pump to heater to manifold filled up with new coolant bleed out ran at fast idle 2/2,5 k rpm for 30 /40 mins temp climbed to 90degs reset fans to come in at 90 ran another 10/15 mins fans in and out running at just under 90 degs happy mick! ,now to get it taxed nose cone and bonnet back on and some miles on it , Why waterless ---nosey mower man

[kevin the chicken]

My heart would have been in my mouth at the thought of all that expensive coolant pushing against a loose hose I had forgotten to tighten properly. I always seem to get at least one leak every time I disturb the cooling system. Much better now that I am using silicone hoses though.

[Guest busby]

With waterless coolant there is no pressure in the coolant system,not cheap but all my system was new so I thought I would try it