Iva Fast Approaching

[paul_r]

Hi all

 

IVA booked and fast approaching. I after comments on the front of the car. Is there anything that jumps out as a fail on the front suspension.

 

Cheers,

Paul

[Snapperpaul]

Looks good but I would edge trim everything you can get edge trim on and put nut covers on every nut you can see

[MarkBzero]

Hi Paul,

I cannot see clearly on the photo but I would consider some trim on the edge on the nose cone and check the top wish bone ball joint (top hat or mushroom) mounting if the bolt does not go all the way through with a lock nut fitted some examiners will fail, alternatively you could drill and fit a smaller bolt and nut through the hub housing.

Take some extra trim to the test centre most are reasonable and will let you fit whilst there.

Mark

[sj-bradley]

Yes, nose cone will need some trim on the edge.

 

One other point is to make sure all tie wraps are turned inwards as there is an invisible "box" formed by the wishbones which should be exempt. Also cut the tag from the tie wraps flush as they are notorious for causing cuts (mainly to us builders though )

 

Also check the brake pipe does not contact any part of suspension at both extremes of lock.

 

I didn't put any nut cover of the shock dial and that passed ok. Take plenty of spare trim though.

 

Simon.

[fry61]

Measure front & back -- width over mudguards --- the wider measurement is the base for the "rectangle" for all light positions. So if rear is wider that measurement will determine where the front indicators need to be. I point this out because it doesn't look like you have used the extra "U" brackets supplied with the kit. Think the max distance for indicators is 400mm in from the edge of the vehicle box -- as shown in the latest mag on page 12.

[knights_templar]

top ball joint lock nut needs a gaiter, looks as though you have used tape or shrink, which will fail

[sj-bradley]

(To Knights_templar)

 

Would self amalgamating rubber tape over the heat shrink be ok though ? As that turns into solid rubber when cured off and you can smooth the end to make the end disappear.

 

Just curious.

 

Simon.

[PaulF2B]

Measure front & back -- width over mudguards --- the wider measurement is the base for the "rectangle" for all light positions. So if rear is wider that measurement will determine where the front indicators need to be. I point this out because it doesn't look like you have used the extra "U" brackets supplied with the kit. Think the max distance for indicators is 400mm in from the edge of the vehicle box -- as shown in the latest mag on page 12.

 

Yes, I agree, without extensions you are probably outside the max 400mm.

If you don't have the RH brackets, they are fairly easy to make out of flat mild steel bar, just 2 off 90° bends and 2 holes.

Then I used a pair of Mini steering gaitors off ebay (only £5 + P+P) to cover them so no edges.

[PaulF2B]

Couple of other checks:

Jack up the front and get someone to turn the steering from lock to lock, then verify the nothing touches/ clashes (that shouldn't) and the wheels both spin freely on full lock.

 

Take with you to the test, a bottle of loctite that you need to use on the caliper to hub bolts (as well as any other important bolts into threaded holes).

Also fill up before the morning of the test and check for fuel leaks with a full tank.

 

Some things I failed to do on my first test

[sj-bradley]

Couple of other checks:

Jack up the front and get someone to turn the steering from lock to lock, then verify the nothing touches/ clashes (that shouldn't) and the wheels both spin freely on full lock.

 

You should also check when on the ground as it may be fine in the air but not when on the ground.

 

Simon.

[paul_r]

Thanks loads of good tips.

I do have extensions pieces for the indicators with plastic tubing over so hard to see.

 

Paul