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Backfire Through Throttle Bodies


Scotty84
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Hey guys,

 

Today I fitted the new lift pump and filters, checked pressure and sits steady at 3bar at the rail.

As its running a little rich I decided to look at the plugs, All 4 plugs black and sooty. So off to ECP with one and got 4 replacements.

Fitted them and straight away Idles alot better.

 

So took it out for a long test drive and all seems fine, the stalling had stopped when coming to a standstill and engine running better.

 

But then after a 20 mile journey I stopped at the shop. Once back in the car and on my way I could hear a popping noise coming from the throttle bodies Sounds like it coming from the second one out of the 4, mainly does it whilst ticking over. Also the exhaust is poppng more and more black smoke on tickover and if you blip the pedal. Almost as if its missfiring I guess.

 

Set up is 2.0 zetec blacktop, Emerald K3 ECU..... Its on Bike throttle bodies, prev owner says R1 but the Map file says GSXR 1100 bodies.

 

Any obvious things to look at?

 

Cheers peeps

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Popping though the inlet is normally indicates a lean mixture, are the throttle bodies balanced correctly? Sounds like one set are running lean

 

As far as now it was all set up on a rolling road, all was fine until I ran out of fuel the other day, had to have the lift pump replaced and as I was running a little rich (black smoke and fuel smell from exhaust) I thought I would change the plugs.

 

Now its like its gone from running rich to lean.

 

I am starting to think I have purchased someone elses problem. Everyday since buying it last week its broke down. Only been out in it 3 times :(

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Still well worth a decent rolling road session by someone that is used to your set up.

If set up correctly, it should not go wrong again if not fiddled,with.

That means running on the fuel you had it set up on as well.

If the bodies came off a bike, they just might not have been re jetted correctly.

Have you had a quick look at cleanliness in carb as you could have pulled more dirt through than you think.

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I doubt you are running lean. You say it smells rich and sooty plugs suggest rich also. New plugs improved it for 20 miles (till they sooted up perhaps). Pull them out and have a look to check! Zetec plugs are sensitive to running rich. Your new fuelling arrangements wont have made it leaner but might easily have made it richer. No substitute for a rolling road session. (While you're at it get the injectors cleaned and flows checked.)

Might be worth checking cam timing. Very easy to do on a zetec. Cam cover off. Number 1 piston to TDC. 0.5mm bar should fit in the two rear cam slots and lie on the top surface of the head.(Difficult to describe but obvious when you look.)

 

Nigel

Edited by Longboarder
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Is this car A 411 that was sold recently by a guy on the NW kit car owners facebook group?

If it is it was owned until last year by Simon on here and was red and stainless until your seller got hold of it. Simon bought and fitted a full package of 2.0 zetec, induction system ,exhaust manifold and the emerald ecu from Tony Birbeck - Tony B on here, SKCC and LCB. When Tony had the set up in his car the whole lot was set up at Northampton motorsports, but removing from one car and fitting to another may have upset something.

It did run rich when Simon had the car and he did attempt to get it remapped at AB garage nr Chester, but Adrian there couldn't map it as he said there was a fault on number 1 cylinder - mind you he was having a bad day as he'd just melted a piston in my engine immediately prior to this. I believe Simon fitted another engine after this but don't know if he ever got the mapping sorted.

The map must be nearly there and just need tweaking to suit the car and Dale at Bailey Performance is not far from you, is very good and has done a few emerald managed cars so knows his way around the system.

The fuel pump you describe in your other post is an old 8v Golf Gti pump, the black plastic is the accumlator/swirl pot with a pump and filter mounted on it. Running the pump dry may have damaged it, it's possibly over 20 years old so it may be worth replacing the pump part of the set up just in case.

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Hi there

Yes this is the car A411. Thank you for the information buddy and it will be going to Dale's at some point this week.

 

It's just nothing but trouble since buying it. On my way home from collecting the drive shafts fell off from the rear diff. All bolts had come loose and fell out.

 

Has developed some electrical problems and now running issues.

 

Only done 40 miles in it since getting it home lol.

 

Hopefully Dale can finally get it running as it should so I can actually enjoy it.

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Ah, kit cars. Hand assembled from whatever you have in the garage, a few bits from uncle Bobs garage, ebay and the local scrappy with a mix of enthusiasm and exasperation and not enough tools or knowledge by anyone from a street sweeper to a policeman or teacher (usually an aero engineer) without definitive plans. Not surprising none are the same and faults are so common. If you wanted it all to work like clockwork you should have bought a Yaris.

On the other hand if you are prepared to work methodically through the car for a weekend you will improve the safety and reliability factor. Remember every single bolt has been done up by the original builder who didn't have any torque specs to work to. So go all round every suspension bolt and nut. Then the mounting bolts for the drive train (engine mounts, gearbox mount, diff). Then the connecting bolts, engine to bellhousing, gearbox to prop, prop to diff, diff to halfshafts, halfshafts to hubs. Then ancillaries to engine and anything else you can think off. Now you will at least know nothing is going to fall off. Next weekend you can check the loom and all electrical connectors. At least the fuel system is done!

 

A kit car rewards your efforts. Mine never breaks down. (AAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH)

 

Nigel

Edited by Longboarder
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Cheers guys, all advise taken on board and booked in some tinkering time on a friend ramp to check it over.

 

Sad news on the running side though, looks like no summer fun for me as Dale at Bailey Performance can not get me in till 6th September. I am sure its just a map issue so its frustrating having it sat in a garage just after buying it. I did ask Dale if he recomends anyone else and he said just Emerald themselves, but it will cost me £3-400 to get the car to them.

 

Anybody know anyone that can come to me? I can get access to a rolling road.

I have ordered a new air temp sensor and the 3 way map switch from Emerald, when we plugged in map1 said RobinHood.map, Map2 and 3 said RH,GSXR100throttlebody175bhp.map. So a small chance switching from Map1 to 2/3 may change something.

 

I have ordered a new high pressure pump just incase its that also, but the pressure gauge is showing 3bar at the rail.

 

Failing that as the issue is mainly on idle, is there anyone that knows how to adjust these values whilst running? or is this not advisable. I would ideally like it running safe enough to get it to a rolling road, maybe to Emerald themselves.

 

Cheers peeps

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I have plenty of emerald maps that may suit..all from Dave and Leoni. If you want I'll send you a few.

 

That would be fantastic buddy.

My set up as far as I know is 2.0 zetec blacktop, R1 throttle bodies and injectors, 3 bar pressure at rail, Emerald K3 ECU.

I have the 3 way map switch coming tomorrow with a new air temp sensor so I will keep my map in one slot then try others in the other slots.

 

My email is asked@hotmail.co.uk

 

Many thanks buddy

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