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JimmyRH

New Suspension, shocks and springs

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Dave from Dampertech is sorting stuff out for me regarding the shocks. Now about the spirng rate for the rear, would 125 also be enough?

I took the old out of the rear, and this one is very dead.

14"open
10" closed with a pen mounting on top.

Edited by JimmyRH

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I fitted these to my Series 3:

DSCF1006.JPG.0d1e7d0cf41ab590a9475b488f74eb48.JPG

DSCF1013.thumb.JPG.1227f3f447a023265d31e9590c6d9fb9.JPG

AVO PA 160/105 - 16" open 10.5" closed with stem top

Springs 10" free length 175lb

A vast improvement over the original Zimmerites.

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Thanks for the image en info.

I have just ordered a custom set of GAZ GP Range @ Dave from Dampertech.
14"open, 10"closed.. Mine has a different top mounting box at the top. Otherwise 16"would have been perfect. 
I ordered 200LBS springs with them. 

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I just fitted Protech !3.5 inch open with 9 inch 180 lb springs to my 3a

Capture.JPG

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Great to hear that I have the right sizing.. :) 
Can't wait to receive them.

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And they have arrived :) I have fitted the rear ones yesterday, the front ones I will start on today, this is a bit more work with the stainless steel bar in front.
Will let you all know the outcome.!

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Got them all fitted up in te car, the front was terrible to reach, even had to disconnect the radiator and coil to get the bolts out but they are in. In the front I have them a bit lower then before, the rear is the same height. But now, I am struggling with the set up.. on the screw is a - and a + I have started in the middle and have been testing with +2 towards the +.. and been doing this for a few times now but I can not seem to get it correct.

I believe I have it to hard, on asfalt, no problem.. but on a brick road, my teeth are coming out and my kidneys have dents in them.. Not really sure how to set them and is - or + softer?? kinda lost. I think specially the rear is the working area. 

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I followed Niduncan and used the original rear springs on Gaz shocks and 125lb on the front

i took the wishbones off and drilled the top mount hole for the new metric bolt and also had to drill the bottom holes in the chassis.

on the front I have only 3 clicks from minimum and get good suspension movement

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Just been playing with mine on a 2b with wishbones on front and gaz shocks seem to have 5 complete turns from - to + so started at 2.5 turns ( half way ) still a bit hard so backed all off 1 more turn and now lovely and comfortable ride maybe not track race settings but very nice to drive now,I was loosing teeth before 😬. So in short terms I’m set 1.5 turns from from full  - position . 

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OK, so 1.5 full circle from -.. but is - soft, or hard? Can not really ind the correct info. 

Also need to remove the Sierra antirollbar to fit the tie bars.

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Do you not get any clicks on GAZs?

I would say convention would have "-" as less damping, and "+" as more damping. Or (and I hate the terms myself) "soft" versus "hard". Ultimately, ask GAZ (I've never used them).

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Hi, Yes GAZ coils have clicks, 20 in total.. So I started on 10.. but, not sure what is soft (more damping) and hard (stiffness) so 

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Well, keeping it simple, the job of the damper is to stop the car bouncing around on it's springs. Imagine a trampoline - without any damper, the spring in the suspension would just bounce up and down when you compress it (say, sitting on a corner of the car and then suddenly jumping off). So the job of dampers, shock absorbers, whatever you want to call them, is to control that springyness.

More damping (ie. 'harder') means more resistance against the spring - the damper will restrict how quickly the spring can compress or extend. Less damping (ie. 'softer') means the opposite, obviously, so the car will feel softer and 'bouncier'.

There are more complexities to it of course - the damping effect happens both on compressing the spring ("compression damping") and as the spring extends after being compressed ("rebound damping"). You gaz dampers will probably combine the adjustment so you adjust them both at the same time - you can't do them independently. More advanced dampers allow you to alter compression and rebound separately (2-way dampers) or there are even 3-ways that allow you to adjust compression separately based on low and high speed movement!

Basically, adjust to how you want it.

Insufficient damping and the car will feel floaty and on large bumps or lots of repeated bumps you might run out of travel and hit bump stops, because the damper isn't controlling (reducing) that travel sufficiently, but it will be more comfortable of course.

Too much damping and the car will just ride stiff, you won't make use of all your travel and you won't have a compliant ride, this can adjust the handling of the car to the negative if it's too stiff (under/oversteer depending on which end, lack of compliance can have you pinging all over the road when you hit bumps, undulations, etc).

As most say, start in the middle and tweak bit by bit in one direction, testing the car over a consistent bit of road that you know very well. When you're happy with it, you're happy with it ;) simple as that :D

 

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Good advice brumster I started in the middle tested it out on known road conditions and tweaked it down until happy with the ride - = softer + = harder. Went on a long run Saturday and really enjoyed the ride and comfort . 

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