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painter

brake pedal reach

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Hi All,

I need to adjust the brake pedal position which is currently 60 - 70mm back from the accelerator (and about 30 - 35mm back from the clutch). It is a standard Sierra set up (1985) but I can't see any threaded linkage that would bring the pedal forward. Tempted to put a servo on the car but very little space outside the pedal box. Has anybody found a way to adjust the pedal reach?

100_1915.JPG

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Assuming you're happy with it in all aspects other than where the pedal sits, if it's all standard probably the easiest thing to do is part-cut the pedal, bend it out to the position you want, then weld two plates back onto the sides to put the strength back in...

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Hell, I don't think I want to climb down there with a cleaning cloth, let alone a welding rig! I had thought of packing out the pedal with an aluminium spacer (rubber coated of course) however not too sure how this would suit the MOT lads. It appears there is no threaded portion of the push rod then?

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Hiya, your measurements are about right, I've just finished rebuilding an elderly Hoodie I got hold of which was originally built from a 1987 Sierra in 2003. It's about the same distances. I wanted to adjust my fitting and did it by putting in a 35mm high false floor and re aligning the seat a bit, if that's any help.🙂

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6 hours ago, painter said:

Hi All,

I need to adjust the brake pedal position which is currently 60 - 70mm back from the accelerator (and about 30 - 35mm back from the clutch). It is a standard Sierra set up (1985) but I can't see any threaded linkage that would bring the pedal forward. Tempted to put a servo on the car but very little space outside the pedal box. Has anybody found a way to adjust the pedal reach?

100_1915.JPG

 

You have a couple of options:-

1-That is not a standard Sierra set up. The pedals are looking correct but not the frame from what I see.

2-Remove scuttle panel so that you can get to the pedal box setup to remove items and adjust to you liking.

3-From what I can see, the brake light switch is acting as the rear stop for the pedal travel.

4-Can the switch be adjusted to allow the pedal to come back more? Just twist left or right to lock or unlock in place.

5-Try taking the clip off the push rod and remove the switch to test.

6-You may have to make a longer push rod to bring the pedal to the correct position.

7- Is the accelerator pedal position a problem?

8-Generally if the brake and clutch pedals are level then we cope with a little amount.

9-Take the pedals off and modify  them to suit your requirements.

Think I have covered most options with the above.

Regards Martin

 

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2 hours ago, painter said:

Hell, I don't think I want to climb down there with a cleaning cloth, let alone a welding rig! I had thought of packing out the pedal with an aluminium spacer (rubber coated of course) however not too sure how this would suit the MOT lads. It appears there is no threaded portion of the push rod then?

<laughs> I kinda meant removing the pedal to do it ;)

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As brumster has suggested I removed my pedal and cut a slit and bent and kept refitting and bending until I got it where I wanted then welded some steel back in and a plate across the rear. 

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many thanks for the responses, as I am 17+ stone and the wrong side of 70 any work which involves climbing into the foot well is unlikely to end well - however the recommendations are sound and appreciated. I think adjusting the brake light switch would be favorite and I may be able to reach this sitting in the passenger side. (after taking a hacksaw to the gear stick). Does anybody know how the 'bar' supporting the brake switch is connected to the side flanges? It doesn't appear to be welded. I suppose a mirror and decent camera would show this. There is very little brake pedal travel and the brakes are not great. Considering the power to weight ratio I don't think a servo would rock the boat, though I have been warned that this could result in 'over braking'. Looking forward to getting some fresh air driving (within current restrictions) once this is done!        

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The pedals tended to sit too high in my 2B, in fact at a previous MOT the mechanic nearly sh** himself when he couldn't find the brake pedal after driving off. Having done an engine change and removing the servo I also needed a little move leverage on the brake pedal. To this end I removed the pedal box from the car, and extended the pedal by just over an inch, also adjusting the position using a U channel gusset, and welding. 

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3 hours ago, painter said:

Does anybody know how the 'bar' supporting the brake switch is connected to the side flanges? It doesn't appear to be welded. I suppose a mirror and decent camera would show this. There is very little brake pedal travel and the brakes are not great. Considering the power to weight ratio I don't think a servo would rock the boat, though I have been warned that this could result in 'over braking'. Looking forward to getting some fresh air driving (within current restrictions) once this is done!        

Hi Chris,

Having saved your pictures so as to get a better look it appears that the bar is bolted each side, could be wrong on that!

The capping all'y plate appears to be retained by the switch plastic grommet that is used for adjusting the switch.

Not sure about the master cylinder, but if it is possible to remove without things falling to pieces after undoing the nuts then you maybe able to remove it with the pipes still in place and see if a longer push rod is possible.

It looks like it is offset to the brake pedal with the additional all'y box on the front, not to sure on that?

Nothing gained without trying a few options.

Regards Martin

 

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