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Zetec blacktop wiring loom


Davo
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A real snakes nest of an issue and not easy to answer. Is that just the engine loom you need or the full loom?

You have 3 options, in order of cost and reverse order of difficulty (easiest and most-expensive first):

1. Buy a new, custom-made loom from elsewhere.

2. Make a new loom yourself.

3. Try re-use that one.

If you're not too confident with electrics, I'd strongly recommend option 1 - it will save you a lot of time and hair-pulling in the long-run, if not your bank balance.

Personally, I started with the main loom from GBS and made my own engine and dash sub-looms - details in my blog (link in my sig below).

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6 minutes ago, nelmo said:

A real snakes nest of an issue and not easy to answer. Is that just the engine loom you need or the full loom?

You have 3 options, in order of cost and reverse order of difficulty (easiest and most-expensive first):

1. Buy a new, custom-made loom from elsewhere.

2. Make a new loom yourself.

3. Try re-use that one.

If you're not too confident with electrics, I'd strongly recommend option 1 - it will save you a lot of time and hair-pulling in the long-run, if not your bank balance.

Personally, I started with the main loom from GBS and made my own engine and dash sub-looms - details in my blog (link in my sig below).

Thank you. I should have been more precise. 

Last year I spent a fair amount of time getting a new loom into the car. All the electrics around the car work fairly well and it's all reasonably tidy. So as far as the main loom is concerned I'm good with that. I could in theory run totally independent. 

To make the old pinto go, I had switched live to the starter and live to the coil. 

 

Now I've got this new zetec on a bench I'm trying to figure out what is needed to make it start! The guy I bought the Zetec off pulled as much of the loom out the focus as he could. It looks like I have all the connectors to each of the sensors which all seem to go back to the ECU. The bit I'm trying to figure out is what would go to ignition to make it start.. if it's that simple?

 

When you say buy a new loom, that's an option,  but not sure what I'd be buying.

 

Nice blog by the way, I think if I understand what I'm look at, I should be concentrating here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qSkMseLxQcnvG1as5gIWqz0DjyEGTd2y/view

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Thanks, glad you like the blog although it may not help you too much - the pin-outs all relate to the GBS main loom and the Emerald ECU. Also, I don't have stalks - all my controls are on the dash, hence my schematic is a bit more complicated.

In theory, it shouldn't be too tricky - did you get the starter motor and alternator included (although you'll probably have too change to a smaller alternator - I don't think the one from a Focus will physically fit)?

You need to link the ignition barrel to the starter motor (probably already have wires for that from the Pinto?).

For fuel, I'm assuming the new engine is FI and not carbs? If so, have you got a swirl pot, with LP pump to it - not sure if you can do FI without one? There should be wires from the ECU to the HP fuel pump and you may need to extend those to the LP pump (not sure how the stock Zetec works in a Focus).

That might start the engine - you then have the problem of getting the dash connected to the new loom...

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We're talking the same language now! :)

 

In response to your comments, that's why I'll probably keep the looms fairly separate. Stalks, switches etc can just run off the existing loom which I know intimately. 

It did come with a starter motor and alternator yes. You're probably right, it won't fit in the car, but for the minute I'm content to get it running on the bench. 

 

Yes, I do have  wires for the starter motor which I used on the pint (I actually have a duplicate loom that matches the car). So I can literally push 12v direct to the starter? It's not controlled by the ECU or anything?

Yes, the new zetec is fuel injection. Came with injectors, rail, ECU etc.

I foresaw this coming and  fitted a low pressure lift pump to the tank which goes to a swirl pot which the old pinto mechanical pump pulls to the current carb. I was planning to purchase the high pressure pump to eventually complete that feed in the car, but to get it running on the bench I was going to literally just get a high pressure pump and feed it from a gerry can on the bench. So I just need to work out the wire for the relay from the ECU to start the high pressure pump I guess. Presumably, because my current low pressure pump and swirl pot when running as a return pipe to the fuel tank, so when the swirl pot is full it just returns it to the tank. It would be nice to have that on the same circuit as the high pressure pump but not necessarily necessary. It just works off a switch. 

Do I need the dash connect to the loom? It's a fairly simple set up. Mechanical speedo, independent indicators etc. 

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Are you just getting it running on the bench to check it's a good engine? Did you not see it running before being stripped out? What about coolant - I guess it will be ok without for a short run?

The Emerald ECU doesn't control the starter, so can't see why any other ECU would - they just need the crank sensor which should all already be there for you.

I guess it depends what you have on the dash - the Emerald ECU provides the signal for the tacho, I've got an oil pressure gauge direct from the engine sensor, oil warning light and a few other other odds and sods which I can't recall right now.

Emerald ECU also controls the fan - you may want to consider that once the engine is in...

Doh! Just realised, you will need power to the ECU...

Edited by nelmo
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I did indeed see it running before it was taken out :)

The whole bench test is more to build my confidence so I know how it wires up, I can make any necessary changes before taking on the big task of fitting it.  Tell me if I'm wrong, but I think I'm going to have to change the sump to a RWD sump, fit an adaptor to the cooling system etc and I'm guessing the sump at least has to be done before installing. 

 

At the moment a I have a 'not great', but working pinto in a running car which I can use. I'd rather not get to the situation where I've fitted the engine but then struggling to make it run etc. 

Re cooling, I had just planned to grab an old radiator from somewhere. to run it out the car. 

Like you, my dash sensors are limited -

  • speedo - currently runs off the wire that goes back to the gearbox, that can stay as is
  • rev counter - currently runs off the coil as a sensing lead. I can adjust the settings on it and it can also pick up from HT leads, so no great drama there either
  • oil pressure gauge - currently runs directly off the engine sensor which I could do without if necessary ( don't know if the ECU will or won't provide that)

 

Crank sensor I think is included in that loom picture

!!! I'd forgotten about the fan !!! The pinto uses a mechanical fan, so I guess I'll have to fit an electric one in place of it.

 

I know we're getting into probably the wrong thread here, but I think the mechanical considerations are:

  • fit RWD sump
  • fit RWD water system so the zetec fits around the bulk head (or so I've heard)
  • Fan!!
  • High pressure fuel pump
  • Return pipe for fuel back to swirl pot
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Yeah, the sump needs doing first (not heard of RWD - is that Raceline?) although it's not that hard to do after the engine is in, depending on how high you can get the car.

RWD water system? Again, is that the Raceline water rail? TBH, if you have the Ford thermostat on, I would re-use that (I did) - works perfectly well and you'll just need to buy and fit a load of silicone tubes - cost me a third of the water rail kit and I've heard several complaints about the water rail being a bit pants.

Yeah, I'm afraid there are a shed-load of other mechanical considerations:

1. Engine mounts

2. Exhaust - it's the other side to the Pinto, isn't it?

3. Accelerator cable (got TBs or GBS-style plenum?).

4. Got a brake servo? May want to check that will fit - it wouldn't in mine.

Sorry, don't want to put you off - this is why I'm never likely to change my engine to a different one 🙂 

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I'm just quoting a load of things other people talk about so I may get the terminology wrong!

 

Sump - I say RWD sump, because I understand if you're turning the engine 90 degrees you need a sump which collects front to back as opposed to left to right? I really don't know - just guessing. If you can tell me what it is I need then that would help massively.

Water system - yes, I mean what you said! The rail. I'll have a go then at doing that myself, if it doesn't work then I can look for a pre made thing.

Exhaust..... yes...... wrong side. Don't really know what I'm looking for, so I just look In the Burton catalogue but would be keen for cheaper manifolds.

Accelerator cable - I have no idea. All I know is I have a cable that goes form the pedal to the carb. I guess, I'm going to need some kind of position sensor.

Brake servo --- oh..... yes, haven't even thought how it connects up. How did you make yours fit?

Engine mounts? I guess I'll have to google to buy them unless my dad feels like helping me make them.

 

Now this Is exactly why I don't want to just start putting it in the car until I have everything ready.

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RWD = rear wheel drive, they tend to shortened to give more ground clearance. I will have a ATR sump for blacktop for sale soon.

I got a kit off eBay for engine mounts, tacked them myself in situ and asked friend to do a proper job.

You do not need a water, it looks cleaner and you easily fit temperature and fan switch. Some have used original thermostat housing and pipe (hoover tube).

 

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The issue with the sump is nothing to do with the pickup, it's the depth of it. The standard sump will give you zero ground clearance so it has to be replaced. You have a choice of getting the standard one chopped down and re-welded by someone or buying a new one. GBS and Tiger sell one for around £300, Raceline do one for about £500.

Throttle cable - you can re-use the throttle body from the engine (which includes the TPS) but you can buy a set of throttle bodies (damn expensive - GBS sell them for about £2k but they will get an extra 20bhp out the engine and it'll sound much better). If you use the Ford TB, you'll need the basic plenum which GBS sell for £200 or so...(look at my blog, I used that).

I don't have a brake servo - just spend more time in the gym 🙂

 

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On 4/1/2021 at 5:26 PM, MarkBzero said:

RWD = rear wheel drive, they tend to shortened to give more ground clearance. I will have a ATR sump for blacktop for sale soon.

I got a kit off eBay for engine mounts, tacked them myself in situ and asked friend to do a proper job.

You do not need a water, it looks cleaner and you easily fit temperature and fan switch. Some have used original thermostat housing and pipe (hoover tube).

 

Thank you. If that’s what I need to make it fit then please let me know. 

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On 4/1/2021 at 5:36 PM, nelmo said:

The issue with the sump is nothing to do with the pickup, it's the depth of it. The standard sump will give you zero ground clearance so it has to be replaced. You have a choice of getting the standard one chopped down and re-welded by someone or buying a new one. GBS and Tiger sell one for around £300, Raceline do one for about £500.

Throttle cable - you can re-use the throttle body from the engine (which includes the TPS) but you can buy a set of throttle bodies (damn expensive - GBS sell them for about £2k but they will get an extra 20bhp out the engine and it'll sound much better). If you use the Ford TB, you'll need the basic plenum which GBS sell for £200 or so...(look at my blog, I used that).

I don't have a brake servo - just spend more time in the gym 🙂

 

I think I understand. Will probably go with the engine throttle body and then eventually upgrade. 
 

not sure I understand plenum though. If the engine was running in the focus and I have all the bits from the focus, what else do I need? 
 

 

897A9DAE-6641-4FCA-82C0-A0E00613F01C.jpeg

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The plenum is basically just an airbox with the throttle body bolted on the end. The standard stuff on that Zetec just won't fit in a Hood/Zero (well, I've never heard of anyone using it). In this post on my blog is a picture of it - it's the big, black box along the length of the engine. 

In this post you can see the engine when it first arrived and how much thinner it is when you take off the standard exhaust and inlet manifolds. 

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