Please Read - 2b Wishbones

[Mitch]

Here's a pic for Greg to see. I do usally have nut covers on them.

[Joel]

I've just double checked the build videos, and I couldn't find it but I'm sure I remember Richard saying we should check the front steering/suspension nuts on a regular basis, particularly after the first few weeks of being on the road.

[Guest Greg]

Thanks Mitch,

I think I'd be tempted to drill and tap a blind hole between the arm and the ball joint and put a short grub screw in there, but that depends on the wall thickness of the joint, but would be easy enough to remove for service/ replacement.

[Guest DaveB]

Has Mitch unknowingly given us the answer to the nyloc working loose if Les's theory is right (which I must say sounds right) then the nut would have more friction when pressed against the casting than when a washer is fitted. Mitch has done over a 1000 miles with no problem as is but will he be able to say the same in 10000 miles? Basically it looks like we have to live with it and fit a pinned nut. On the subject of the bottom part of the joint this is more serious the only way this can work loose is if the ball joint itself ceases. Does this mean it is underated? I am going to fit a grub screw or a locking plate to make certain it does not happen to me.

Another thought if we fix the top and bottom of the joint and the ball joint is ceasing under load that means the steering will lock up unless the taper allows rotation.

 

Dave

[Guest JohnS]

Having had the ball joint unscrew its self from the wish bone I know how worrying this is. But I think we have two distinct problems here.

1, RHE suppied ball joints coming out of the wish bone.

We need to fabricate / improvise a locking system, and ensure all are awear of this problem (See Driving: Bottom ball joints)

2, Nylocs coming undone.

I have to asume that we are all using good engineering practice and not reusing Nyloc nuts, as we could be brining this on ourselfs.

 

I know this is of little comfort but we all know we should not reuse Nylocs but we all do.

for the sake of a few pence, im going to buy some new ones before I experince the problem.

Even with castleated nuts we should not be reusing split pins.

 

I know budgets are tight but these items are pence.

 

JohnS

[Guest michael]

the problem with the taper on the ball joint is that the top of the taper does not go all the way through the taper in the hub. all you do when you tighten up, is clamp on the top shoulder of the shank not the taper sides.

I filed out the top of the hole in the bottom of the hub and with the balljoint out of the wishbone made sure it fitted snug.

You will have to fit spacing washers under the nut.if i now remove the nut 1 need a ball joint spliter or a big hammer to get the thing apart,just like you should do.

The ball joint suplied does not fit the ford hub and in my opinion is dangerous. regs mike.........just joined have 2b withe wishbones'

[Big Jim]

Tapers are machined to a "British standard Morse taper" size, so a ball joint made for Ford will fit a Rover taper hole,providing it's a matching size, and that's providing the hole is machined correctly. The small diameter of the taper must NOT come through, or be level with the outer edge of the hole.

(Hands up those who remember RH telling you to "wiggle a drill" in the hole to open it up so as to fit the taper in the other way!)

I don't like nylock nuts for this application (although we have to put up with them sometimes) castlated nuts are no longer used due to penny-pinching on production, if you can, get hold of a "Cleve-lock" nut, this looks very similar to a nylock, but where the nylon would be, there are a couple of threads that have been "squashed" (for want of a better term) these are MUCH better than nylock. You should also use a plain flat washer under any of these nuts (not too thin either!)

[Guest rob jenkins]

Hi All,

Guess what you got it it has happenned to me tonight.

pottering along as you do steering seems a little odd funny noise from offside front.

as i am not very mechanically minded shall take it to my mates garage tomorrow and see whats up and report back.

Again thanks for the info

 

Regards Rob

[Guest Battery Bill]

My this is an old thread.

Here is our solution to this problem quite easy really.

[Guest Dredd]

Bill

 

What guage wire did you use?

[Guest Battery Bill]

Derek

Will bring some to Newark if you like Not sure what guage it is proper aircraft stuff

[Guest Dredd]

Bill

Outstanding, thanks.

[Guest rob jenkins]

as promised the result of my suspension problem.

a piece of metal that is bolted to the brake caliper and welded to the pillar decided to come apart.

 

this is giving me cause to worry; i don't like worry so............ can you advise me if its possible and if so what i need to convert to double wishbone.

 

cheers

rob

[Guest timswait]

This is indeed a problem which crops up frequently on this board. I have had the nyloc on mine loosen itseld after several thousand miles of driving. It doesn't mention this problem on the videos (not mine anyway), but RHE did send out a letter to 2B owners about a year ago warning of it.

The way I solved the problem was similar to Bill. To stop the balljoint unscrewing I drilled a hole through the wishbone in one of the slots in the ball joint and inserted a pin through. To stop the nyloc working loose I drilled through the nut and shaft and again pinned it. I hammered over the ends of the pins (just bits of thick wire, prob about 1.5mm-2mm dia, can't really remember) to stop them coming out. I've just been out to photograph it, apologises for the rubbish picture.

This is a pretty serious problem, perhaps it would be appropriate for a moderator to pin a thread about it? It seems to be a yearly occurrence that someone has a near accident.

[Guest peter2b2002]

Hi, a tip that i learnt years ago, put a line of white paint down the side of the nut and on to the threaded part, so if one moves in relation to the other it is easy to spot. I have done this on all the front suspension nuts and bolts, so when you walk arround the front of the car it only takes 30 seconds to spot if anything is comming loose

pete2b